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My R6 eats $$$
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I've got a track day sunday and my translogic system for my 17 is still in the box. how long can I expect this install to take? lol, chasing a toddler all day makes it tough to find time
Depends on how confident you are with disassembling your bike. Have you ever removed your tank? Airbox? If yes, I'd say maybe an hour or two max. If you've never done more than remove the seat, give yourself at least three to four hours.

Just thinking about my lessons learned.....
  • Before you start, you'll need to reverse the Translogic Quickshift connectors with the yellow dots, as the 17-18 R6 wiring is reversed (it's explained in the instructions you download from the Translogic site).
  • You might be able to do the complete install without removing fairings but it's easier if you remove them.
  • Changing the shift rod out is pretty straightforward. Just make the final length of the new one, plus the sensor, is the same length as the factory rod.
  • Plugs on top of the engine are very simple to remove and install.. the pain is you have to remove the tank and complete airbox (top and then bottom) to access everything. If you're not familiar, remove the air box cover (11 philips head) then remove the bolts around the bottom of the intake horns (6 hex head). They're captured by the box, so no worries about losing them into the cylinders. But I'd def painters tape the intakes after removing the bottom half of airbox.
  • The radiator fans don't have a complete shroud so I'd suggest making sure everything around the plugs is well zip-tied so the fans don't clip a wire.
  • If you have the Blipper too, attaching the trigger wire to the front brake switch tab to the left/interior (when sitting on the bike) will only allow the blipper to work when the front brake is applied. Attaching to the tab on the right/exterior will allow it to work with or without brakes (I recommend this method).
  • Connect everything first WITHOUT zip-tying or securing. Turn key to On but don't start. Move shift lever to up shift and light on Quickshifter ECU should come on. Shift down and light on Blipper ECU should come on. If it's backwards, it means you reversed the shift rod sensor connections.
  • I mounted my ECU's under the seat where the factory tool kit usually rests, just above the silver cross-brace.
The real time consumer for me was routing/securing the wires so they're not resting on anything that gets too hot or in a place that'll get pinched during reassembly. I'm OCD about that stuff and always try to make any mods I do completely blend / look factory.
 

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Hi guys.
Dug up this post 'cause it's the only regardig my question.

I currently racing crosscar (not sure you got in the US) and I'm going to use a 18' R6 engine, with full GYTR wiring and ECU.

Last year I ran a 2015 R6, with an HM PLUS Quickshifter, YEC wiring and ECU. Everything worked perfect, but we have decided to change to a Translogic QS+AB for the upcoming season - along with 2018 parts.

I have a couple important questions:

1 - The 2010-16 wiring had a speed sensor on the engine block, near the engine sprocket. This sensor doesn't exist on the new 2017-18 wiring (OEM and GYTR).
Can anyone tell if the wiring detects wheel motion, which previously was needed for the 2010-16 quickshifter to work properly thru gears?
Since I don't use ABS, and have no sensors on the wheels in the crosscar, will this system work properly with the 2018 GYTR wiring?


2 - The Translogic Blip Assist System 2017-18 R6 - Part TLS-BA4.2-R6-DCS - is plug-and-play on my 2018 wiring, am I correct?
It will work perfect with the BN6-8591A-70 ECU?
Is the mentioned part is complete with quickshifter AND auto-blip?
Since this might be related to my previous question, regarding speed sensor, should I try to find another option?


Can you give me some insight on this subject?
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Hi guys.
Dug up this post 'cause it's the only regardig my question.

I currently racing crosscar (not sure you got in the US) and I'm going to use a 18' R6 engine, with full GYTR wiring and ECU.

Last year I ran a 2015 R6, with an HM PLUS Quickshifter, YEC wiring and ECU. Everything worked perfect, but we have decided to change to a Translogic QS+AB for the upcoming season - along with 2018 parts.

I have a couple important questions:

1 - The 2010-16 wiring had a speed sensor on the engine block, near the engine sprocket. This sensor doesn't exist on the new 2017-18 wiring (OEM and GYTR).
Can anyone tell if the wiring detects wheel motion, which previously was needed for the 2010-16 quickshifter to work properly thru gears?
Since I don't use ABS, and have no sensors on the wheels in the crosscar, will this system work properly with the 2018 GYTR wiring?


2 - The Translogic Blip Assist System 2017-18 R6 - Part TLS-BA4.2-R6-DCS - is plug-and-play on my 2018 wiring, am I correct?
It will work perfect with the BN6-8591A-70 ECU?
Is the mentioned part is complete with quickshifter AND auto-blip?
Since this might be related to my previous question, regarding speed sensor, should I try to find another option?


Can you give me some insight on this subject?
What do you mean by GYTR wiring? YEC?

1. It's tough to say if the QS is dependant on wheel speed motion. On the dyno with the OEM harness the QS does work and only the rear wheel is spinning. We are mostly dealing with OEM harnesses here or the FT race harness that was developed since the Yamaha Racing/YEC/GYTR stuff was not available in 2017. What the QS is dependant on that I have come across this past season is the clutch switch for sure, and we had an issue with a faulty ABS delete plug that didn't allow the QS to work also. We did see that we could jump the clutch switch to mimic the clutch lever being let out all the time. If you don't jump it, the QS doesn't work, and the bike runs tragically rich also. On newer R1's with the YEC setup, we need to run both the standalone translogic intellishift plus the blip assist ECU. The Translogic feeds voltage back to the QS sensor in a manner that the YEC ecu didn't accept. A diode would need to be used and things get complicated.

2. This would work great on a stock harness with factory ECU. And the blip works excellent with the STD mode drive by wire. Very little adjustment is needed. This kit includes the blip assist ECU, warmup button, the dual direction sensor, standard shift rod kit, and the adaptor plug to connect the upshift side of the sensor into the OEM harness. In regards to this all working with the YEC harness and ECU, I'm not really sure. It's all very similar to the 15+ R1 YEC stuff, so my firs assumption would be that it won't work and I'd recommend the complete standalone setup that doesn't use the OEM upshift capability in the ECU. That would be the IS4 intellishift kit + the blip assist ECU only add on.
 

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What do you mean by GYTR wiring? YEC?

1. It's tough to say if the QS is dependant on wheel speed motion. On the dyno with the OEM harness the QS does work and only the rear wheel is spinning. We are mostly dealing with OEM harnesses here or the FT race harness that was developed since the Yamaha Racing/YEC/GYTR stuff was not available in 2017. What the QS is dependant on that I have come across this past season is the clutch switch for sure, and we had an issue with a faulty ABS delete plug that didn't allow the QS to work also. We did see that we could jump the clutch switch to mimic the clutch lever being let out all the time. If you don't jump it, the QS doesn't work, and the bike runs tragically rich also. On newer R1's with the YEC setup, we need to run both the standalone translogic intellishift plus the blip assist ECU. The Translogic feeds voltage back to the QS sensor in a manner that the YEC ecu didn't accept. A diode would need to be used and things get complicated.

2. This would work great on a stock harness with factory ECU. And the blip works excellent with the STD mode drive by wire. Very little adjustment is needed. This kit includes the blip assist ECU, warmup button, the dual direction sensor, standard shift rod kit, and the adaptor plug to connect the upshift side of the sensor into the OEM harness. In regards to this all working with the YEC harness and ECU, I'm not really sure. It's all very similar to the 15+ R1 YEC stuff, so my firs assumption would be that it won't work and I'd recommend the complete standalone setup that doesn't use the OEM upshift capability in the ECU. That would be the IS4 intellishift kit + the blip assist ECU only add on.

From 2017 onwards, YEC no longer exists. It's been replaced by GYTR - Genuine Yamaha Technology Racing.
https://www.yamaha-racing.com/more/gytr-race-parts

From what I was told, the ABS sensor also works as a speed sensor on the rear wheel. This means the ECU quickshifter function will only work if this sensor is working. We don't use in crosscar, so I will most likely adapt the sensor and trigger on the car.

Since I will use the YEC (GYTR) wiring, and not the ECU's quickshifter capability, am I correct to assume the IS4 intellishift kit will work properly?
This is the most important aspect - getting the quickshifter to work correctly. Afterwards, I may add the blip assit ECU to test, without compromising the IS4 funcionality.
I am assuming I can add/remove the blip assit ECU, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #66
From 2017 onwards, YEC no longer exists. It's been replaced by GYTR - Genuine Yamaha Technology Racing.

https://www.yamaha-racing.com/more/gytr-race-parts



From what I was told, the ABS sensor also works as a speed sensor on the rear wheel. This means the ECU quickshifter function will only work if this sensor is working. We don't use in crosscar, so I will most likely adapt the sensor and trigger on the car.



Since I will use the YEC (GYTR) wiring, and not the ECU's quickshifter capability, am I correct to assume the IS4 intellishift kit will work properly?

This is the most important aspect - getting the quickshifter to work correctly. Afterwards, I may add the blip assit ECU to test, without compromising the IS4 funcionality.

I am assuming I can add/remove the blip assit ECU, correct?


Yes it’s safe to say the intellishift kit will work great and you can easily add the blip assist to it later no problem. You will need to swap wires in the cylinder one coil harness on the intellishift. Here’s a couple pics I saved on my phone. When I sell the kits I swap the wires before I send them. You only swap the wires in the two coil one plugs.





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Yes it’s safe to say the intellishift kit will work great and you can easily add the blip assist to it later no problem. You will need to swap wires in the cylinder one coil harness on the intellishift. Here’s a couple pics I saved on my phone. When I sell the kits I swap the wires before I send them. You only swap the wires in the two coil one plugs.
One detail I missed:

If the IS4 in completly stand-alone, and doesn't depend on the bike's ECU, this also means there's a possibility I won't need to use the ABS sensor for the "ignition kill" to happen.

I have tried to find some instruction manuals of both parts, but I get asked for a serial number...
TLS-iS4-DCS
TLS-BA4.2-R6-ECU

These are the parts, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #68
One detail I missed:

If the IS4 in completly stand-alone, and doesn't depend on the bike's ECU, this also means there's a possibility I won't need to use the ABS sensor for the "ignition kill" to happen.

I have tried to find some instruction manuals of both parts, but I get asked for a serial number...
TLS-iS4-DCS
TLS-BA4.2-R6-ECU

These are the parts, correct?
That is correct. It will work regardless of the wheel speed sensors being present. It plugs inline to the coils and interrupts the spark when the sensor is triggered. And you do have the part numbers correct there also.
 

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That is correct. It will work regardless of the wheel speed sensors being present. It plugs inline to the coils and interrupts the spark when the sensor is triggered. And you do have the part numbers correct there also.
Cool!
Regarding the Auto-blipper, will it work as an add-on to the QS’s wiring?
If so, I believe it will all work perfectly regardless of sensor.

Since the HM worked perfect, I’m afraid of changing, but I guess it’s gonna be worthy...

Thanks for your time and help!
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Cool!

Regarding the Auto-blipper, will it work as an add-on to the QS’s wiring?

If so, I believe it will all work perfectly regardless of sensor.



Since the HM worked perfect, I’m afraid of changing, but I guess it’s gonna be worthy...



Thanks for your time and help!


The autoblipper is another small box that plugs into the jst connector on the sensor. It also runs inline to center TPS connection on the throttle body. It plugs inline to coil one to get its power. I’ve never tried using an HM sensor. But the translogic one is a pressure sensor like the HM is. And in my past experience with HM, it does work great when it is working. I’ve had a couple that went bad for no good reason. But that can happen with any product. But the translogic kit does have the pressure adjustment along with blip duration adjustment and kill time adjustment that you can set for 5 different rpm ranges. Plus the intellishift is load sensing based on rpm and the amount of ignition. Nothing feels better than the intellishift kit with so little effort. The HM is one kill time for all rpm ranges. I think you will really enjoy it!


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The autoblipper is another small box that plugs into the jst connector on the sensor. It also runs inline to center TPS connection on the throttle body. It plugs inline to coil one to get its power. I’ve never tried using an HM sensor. But the translogic one is a pressure sensor like the HM is. And in my past experience with HM, it does work great when it is working. I’ve had a couple that went bad for no good reason. But that can happen with any product. But the translogic kit does have the pressure adjustment along with blip duration adjustment and kill time adjustment that you can set for 5 different rpm ranges. Plus the intellishift is load sensing based on rpm and the amount of ignition. Nothing feels better than the intellishift kit with so little effort. The HM is one kill time for all rpm ranges. I think you will really enjoy it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The difference, considering what you perfectly explanes, is that the HM working with the YEC ECU has adjustable kill-time for each gear. This means I can use a longe cut between 1st and 2nd gear, which is my main concern. All other gears work perfect somewhere around 0,45-0,50. But i think that 1-2 should be a bit more because of the N “space” between them. Does this make any sense?
Since it will be 100% racing usage - at least until I get on my bike. ��

Thanks for the time you take to answer me. Trully appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #72
The difference, considering what you perfectly explanes, is that the HM working with the YEC ECU has adjustable kill-time for each gear. This means I can use a longe cut between 1st and 2nd gear, which is my main concern. All other gears work perfect somewhere around 0,45-0,50. But i think that 1-2 should be a bit more because of the N “space” between them. Does this make any sense?
Since it will be 100% racing usage - at least until I get on my bike. ��

Thanks for the time you take to answer me. Trully appreciated!
Anytime!
 

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Hi Folks

I've got a 09 R6 with Bazzaz Z-Fi + QS + TC.
Could I install the Translogic Auto Blipper to my bike ? Any update to the ECU ?
If yes, what is the package I need to buy from Bauce Racing ? Translogic Blip Assist Unit 08-16 R6, XSR900, 07-14 R1, 15-17 R1
- Bike is Setup for GP Shift
- Bazzaz QS module is the "new" sensor which is bi-directional
- I've got a Gear Indicator which is tapped to the TPS with a scotchlok

Best Regards
Aditya
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Hi Folks



I've got a 09 R6 with Bazzaz Z-Fi + QS + TC.

Could I install the Translogic Auto Blipper to my bike ? Any update to the ECU ?

If yes, what is the package I need to buy from Bauce Racing ? Translogic Blip Assist Unit 08-16 R6, XSR900, 07-14 R1, 15-17 R1

- Bike is Setup for GP Shift

- Bazzaz QS module is the "new" sensor which is bi-directional

- I've got a Gear Indicator which is tapped to the TPS with a scotchlok



Best Regards

Aditya


Hey Adi!

You’ll need the intellishift system and the blip assist unit. It’s like $713 total on the site. No updates needed for the ecu. You’ll remove the Bazzaz shift sensor.

I inquired not that long ago to translogic about running their stuff along with the Bazzaz TC setup since translogic also installs to the coils. They said that in theory it should work and they recommended plugging they equipment inline from the harness first then the Bazzaz to the coil.


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Hey Adi!

You’ll need the intellishift system and the blip assist unit. It’s like $713 total on the site. No updates needed for the ecu. You’ll remove the Bazzaz shift sensor.

I inquired not that long ago to translogic about running their stuff along with the Bazzaz TC setup since translogic also installs to the coils. They said that in theory it should work and they recommended plugging they equipment inline from the harness first then the Bazzaz to the coil.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey Anthony,

Thank you for the update.
So according to translogic, I can only buy the blip module + DC sensor and make it work with the Bazzaz ?
- I'm guessing you have not tried a translogic blip module + QS (from a different manufacturer, like HM or Dynojet) as well ?

Best Regards
Aditya
 

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Do you still need the quick shifter with blip assist on 17+?
they don't come with a quick shifter still. the 2019 says it can be fitted with one.
look under additional features. then "ready to accessorize"
it says, "The YZF-R6 is ready to hit the racetrack straight from the showroom floor, but for riders looking for the extra edge, an accessory Quick Shift System can be installed to allow for clutchless full-throttle upshifts for maximum acceleration".


however the R1 does come with an autoblipper now.
 

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they don't come with a quick shifter still. the 2019 says it can be fitted with one.
look under additional features. then "ready to accessorize"
it says, "The YZF-R6 is ready to hit the racetrack straight from the showroom floor, but for riders looking for the extra edge, an accessory Quick Shift System can be installed to allow for clutchless full-throttle upshifts for maximum acceleration".


however the R1 does come with an autoblipper now.
I meant do you need the translogic options for the quick shift on top of the translogic blip assist (blipper) on the 17+ r6. Or can you activate the quickshift function with just having the blip assist? I have the translogic auto blip on my 16 r1 and it functions for both shifting and blipping. I was trying to find out if it was the same for the newest R6.
 

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I meant do you need the translogic options for the quick shift on top of the translogic blip assist (blipper) on the 17+ r6. Or can you activate the quickshift function with just having the blip assist? I have the translogic auto blip on my 16 r1 and it functions for both shifting and blipping. I was trying to find out if it was the same for the newest R6.


It is the same as the r1. The blip assist system works just like it does for the new r1. The upshift side of the shift sensor plugs into the oem qs port on the harness with the provided adaptor in the translogic Kit.

The r6 comes with a shift rod that has 6mm female threads on the top heim joint and 8mm on the bottom. So you need to add the TLS-FM-108 shift rod to the order. That’s really the only difference from the r1 setup.

http://bauce-racing.com/index.php?route=product/product&manufacturer_id=31&product_id=158


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