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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My clutch has been slipping for awhile now. On the advice of some board members I checked the clutch cable adjustments and found there was no play in the cable. I fully loosened both the upper and lower cable adjustments which allowed for some play but it’s still slipping at high rpm's. It appears I have been riding around with my clutch ever so slightly engaged for some time now. Time to replace the clutch.

I will be attempting to replace the clutch myself. I have the service manual which has the step-by-step photos but I have a few general questions.

These are the basic steps as outlined from the service manual:
1. Remove lower fairing and drain oil
2. Detach clutch cable and idle speed adjuster
3. Remove cover
4. Remove clutch bolts, springs and clutch pressure plate
5. Remove clutch plates
6. Remove clutch center nut lock washer
7. Remove clutch nut
8. Dislodge and remove bearing centre from clutch housing
9. Remove needle roller cage
10. Withdraw clutch housing



Questions:

When a local shop gave me a quote to replace the clutch the quote included new plates, springs, oil and filter.

1. Are there other parts that normally need to be replaced with a clutch replacement other than the plates and springs?

2. If in fact I only need to replace the plates and springs why would I need to perform steps 6-10 above?

3. Is there anything I’m overlooking?



Thanks for any feedback,
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update:

Well I pulled the clutch plates today and found the second innermost plate was in three pieces. I’m hoping this was the problem. It was surprisingly easy to remove the plates I just hope the install is as easy.


Plates and Springs (replacing all)


Anyone know what the pink stuff is?



The broken plate
 

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I think the pink stuff may represent the tension of the spring. i.e. pink is harder to compress than say (for example) a spring painted blue. It's just a guess. I know a lot more about cars than I do bikes and I know when fine tuning my distributor the colors of the springs in my distributor represent different tensions when playing with timing advance weights. Just a guess.
 

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well i decided to bring this topic back up for some more questions. i think i may have blown up the clutch. it holds fine for the most part. but it has a hell of a noise and vibration when inguaged. i can feel it in the handle bars and it stops when i pull the clutch in. one question is do i have to drain the oil to just check it out. i want to just take a look right now and i just changed the oil. don't want to throw the oil away after 300 miles. thanks in advance, i did do a search and not much pulled up.

Mike
 

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bump, cause i need some help.
 

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No it should be fine but it might spill a small bit. 10 to 1 its your TOB. Does the clutch slip? Like in a WOT 3rd gear pull will it slip at ALL? Either way if its your throw out bearing OR you clutch pack you SHOULD drain/replace your oil otherwise you'll have all that crap and contaminates IN your oil.
 

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Ah shit just read it over again...my bad you said the vibration stops when the clutch is pulled IN so in that case the TOB should be fine then sorry about that. If your clutch slips then rip into it and see whats what in there and replace as nessecary.
 

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when i start out ridding the vibration is normal, but after it worms up it gets pretty bad. it makes my hands start to hurt. plus the ticking in the motor seems to get louder. i got used to the ticking but it seems to get louder. it's the vibraton that i am more concerned with. thanks for the help i think i will change the oil again and just rip into it. maybe i can see it better when i do.
 
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