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Anything metal, like road plates and manhole covers are almost the same as ice. Raise painted lines are not far behind. In those cases, and leaned over as Mordantly points out, having some tread does help. (not much for the metal and paint though)

When I first got the m'cycle it seemed like it was flip'n raining all the time. It was usually only for the first part or last part of the workday. Got sick of leaving it parked. After some weeks of this I finally just said 'screw it'. So first year riding, was somewhat "forced" to get used to it. Just refused to pay thousands for something only to watch it sit most of the year.
 

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@misti - Never really understood what folks meant by "counter steer".
After reading that, I finally get it. I do get a much quicker response; so much so that even at 40s air temps and cold streets I'm able to hit that last centimeter of chicken-strip. (on well worn Micheline PR4s) Thanks for posting that site! 馃憤 I've heard folks say to "push" on the handlebar and didn't really get that either. Find myself doing doing more pull than push. I'm a featherweight and the pushing on the peg (like pushing the bar) he mentions does little of nothing for me also.
Awesome!! Glad that the site and Keith's info helped you really understand counter-steering! We have a counter-steering exercise we run all our level 1 students through in the parking lot or paddock and it's quite often the exercise that creates the most "lightbulb" moments, where students go, "I FINALLY GET IT!!!" It's also something that is much easier to teach in person, simply with some demonstration and real-time adjustments than by reading it online. Sometimes people get too caught up in the semantics of what is being said or each specific word, instead of being able to feel exactly how it works. I'm glad you have noticed a difference.

Now, at higher speeds, the need for a good solid and effective countersteer action is super important. Pulling on the bar is fine, but with practice, you may notice that pushing on the bar works better. Most of the time I just use a push on the bar on the side I want to turn the bike. I want to go right? I push the right bar....now, does it matter HOW you push the bar? Do you stab it, push it gently, push it slowly, push down, push forward? HOW should you be executing the counter-steering action in order to be most effective?
 

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now, does it matter HOW you push the bar? Do you stab it, push it gently, push it slowly, push down, push forward? HOW should you be executing the counter-steering action in order to be most effective?
I have been watching Gixxer Brah on youtube. That dude executes some damn fine steering at 130mph weaving through DFW traffic. Dude is nuts!
 

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Anything metal, like road plates and manhole covers are almost the same as ice. Raise painted lines are not far behind. In those cases, and leaned over as Mordantly points out, having some tread does help. (not much for the metal and paint though)
When I first got the m'cycle it seemed like it was flip'n raining all the time. It was usually only for the first part or last part of the workday. Got sick of leaving it parked. After some weeks of this I finally just said 'screw it'. So first year riding, was somewhat "forced" to get used to it. Just refused to pay thousands for something only to watch it sit most of the year.
they make rain/wet specific tires... usually has softer compounds that dont like a whole bunch of heat. Not really DOT certified but Id bet they provide alot of traction versus a traditional street tire.
 
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