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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I start the bike it idles fine up until the temp goes from LO to actually reading a number, it bounces between 1,500-700rpm. I got a full two brothers exhaust( no cat) and a power commander 3. I checked if my problem was pressure related by covering the exhaust (the rpm drops even lower and when I released it they go back up). If the bike hits 200 deg. or more it sometimes stall when I come to a stop.

I think my problem could be PC related because I played with some numbers and it got a little better but still bouncy and low idle.I heard that if the PC tune is not good it could cause that bouncy idle. Wondering if anyone could give me a suggestion or even a tune to to try to help me fix my problem.
 

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You can test your theory if the pc is the problem but loading in a zero map. That way the pc wont change any values acting as if its not even there. Go for a test ride and see if the problem is still there. If its gone the maps the problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok thanks I’ll give it a try. Also last night I found that the r6 has a little screw behind the air box that controls the idle. Should I give it a try and try to raise it that way?

 

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before trying to adjust idle I would put that zero map on. To find out what your idle actually is when its not being changed by the power commander. Because if the map is the problem it can screw with idle too
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
before trying to adjust idle I would put that zero map on. To find out what your idle actually is when its not being changed by the power commander. Because if the map is the problem it can screw with idle too
I just played with the power commander for a bit. I even uploaded the zero map but no change guess it’s not my PC. I hope I can get the issue solved before spring.

It’s gotta be either spark plugs( I doubt), ignition coils, or valve adjustment which I still haven’t hit the recommended 26k miles for an adjustment. I’ll post back when/if I can figure it out.
 

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Plugs are likely fouling. Pull them. Confirm gap. If gap is excessive, that is a factor. If the gap is okay but they're fouling anyway, you'll need to find out why. Most likely it simply requires another tune. I've installed an AFR gauge to my 2nd-Gen (you have a 3rd-Gen) so I can determine what needs done and make the adjustments myself. Otherwise visits to a tuner may become a seasonal affair given the fuel changes for our area. Interestingly, my plugs were fouling due to lean condition. I had assumed rich when looking at them, due to the fact that I'd only pull them once it started missing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I’ll go ahead and check my spark plugs and measure the resistance on the ignition coils tomorrow. Here’ a video of the bike first at cold start then when warm.
 

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Works now. May have been a delay in publishing the video or a problem loading the web page.

To test coil leaking spark, which is a frequent failure mode for replacements, wrap in grounded foil then initiate spark. In my particular case, resistance tests indicated nothing. I used a spark gap tester and noticed that one coil quit firing reliably at a fraction of the gap that the other three did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I’ve noticed that a majority of the people with similar problems either their bike stalls at idle and or also bogs when throttle is applied.

my bike doesn’t bog or stall it just idles funny and it’s annoying after some time. I’ll do the best I can to check up plugs and coils. I appreciate all the help
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Don't get too obsessed with a smoooooth idle. That's a finicky goal to attain. A little bit of wonder can be considered normal.
I know. I’m not looking for a perfect idle but a healthy bike won’t idle like mine is. Like I said it sometimes stalls only when coming to a stop. I ride with a couple other R6’s and they don’t idle “smoothly” but there idle doesn’t drop to 1k rpm or lower like mine.
 

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Mine will drop as low as 1k but it’s fairly smooth transition, no sharp drops or raises, nothing jerky. The key is a steady idle if its moving up and down when you give it no input and its slready warm then id be curious to look further
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I replaced my ignition coils and like magic the bike idles nice and smooth. I measured the resistance of the “bad coils” and they were within spec. Maybe they changed as the bike warmed up which would explain why the bike had a tendency to stall only at or above 200 degrees.
 
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