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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2001 yamaha yzf-r6 champions ltd edition.

hi all im new to this group... please be gentle.... lol

so i go try to start my bike today and nothing...

i changed out the battery to no avail..

here is the problem!

when i turn the key i dont hear the fuel pump kicking in but everything else works... headlights, cluster and etc... the only things that dont work on the bike are the neutral light doesnt come on when the bike is clearly in neutral, the turn signals and of course the bike running in itself. no the killswitch isnt the problem. the bike doesnt even crank at all... when i hit the ignition\start
switch (with the kickstand up and the clutch in) all that happens is it appears as if evefrything shorts out (cluster,lights,electrics go dead till i release the switch) and i hear a click from the big relay under the seat next to the cdi....

so im wondering why....
A neutral light doesnt work
B bike doesnt start
C signals dont work
any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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FTW
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When you turn the key do you hear a single click or pop?

Edit: reread and noticed you said you did hear a pop. Sounds to me like 1 of a few things:
1. Starter is bad
2. Connection is bad to the starter motor
3. Connection is bad from kill switch to motor
4. Connection is bad from commutator to starter
5. Spark plugs? (Don't think this is the problem since you said the bike isn't starting at all... and I'll also have to assume you have a decent volume of good gas in the tank as well)

The first thing you wanna do is start checking all the wiring, if something is eroded or loose, try cleaning it off with some solution and an abrasive pad or tighten it up as needed. Make sure none of your lines are damaged. (If you have an ohmmeter you can check each line for a positive current).
 

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Mr. B (Florida Boy)
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1,533 Posts
When you turn the key do you hear a single click or pop?

Edit: reread and noticed you said you did hear a pop. Sounds to me like 1 of a few things:
1. Starter is bad
2. Connection is bad to the starter motor
3. Connection is bad from kill switch to motor
4. Connection is bad from commutator to starter
5. Spark plugs? (Don't think this is the problem since you said the bike isn't starting at all... and I'll also have to assume you have a decent volume of good gas in the tank as well)

The first thing you wanna do is start checking all the wiring, if something is eroded or loose, try cleaning it off with some solution and an abrasive pad or tighten it up as needed. Make sure none of your lines are damaged. (If you have an ohmmeter you can check each line for a positive current).
:stupic
 

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SHIFT!!
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Was the battery u put in it charged? The clicking/lights going out is a classic sign of weak battery. The neutral switch and lights could be a blown fuse. Did the championship editions come with a alarm or where those the R1's.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When you turn the key do you hear a single click or pop?

Edit: reread and noticed you said you did hear a pop. Sounds to me like 1 of a few things:
1. Starter is bad
2. Connection is bad to the starter motor
3. Connection is bad from kill switch to motor
4. Connection is bad from commutator to starter
5. Spark plugs? (Don't think this is the problem since you said the bike isn't starting at all... and I'll also have to assume you have a decent volume of good gas in the tank as well)

The first thing you wanna do is start checking all the wiring, if something is eroded or loose, try cleaning it off with some solution and an abrasive pad or tighten it up as needed. Make sure none of your lines are damaged. (If you have an ohmmeter you can check each line for a positive current).
so i spent all day looking through all the wiring (literaly stripping the bike appart) and found nothing. i can appreciate your thoughts on the starter, kill switch, commutator and spark plugs but i dont think any of these are the problem... the reason i say this is because my fuel pump doesnt even pump when i turn the key.... the other reasons my thoughts are leaning away from these things is that the nuetral light doesnt come on at all. the pop comes from the big relay under the seat and that only happens when the starter\ignition switch is depressed and not when the key is turned. the good news is that since i had the bike apart and all of that i sprayed my frame black and my plastics a pearl white/blue which looks deadly. still waiting on the base to properly cure and afterwards im going to air brush details onto it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Was the battery u put in it charged? The clicking/lights going out is a classic sign of weak battery. The neutral switch and lights could be a blown fuse. Did the championship editions come with a alarm or where those the R1's.....

i filled the new battery with the supplied acid and charged it at the recomended 1A for the recomended 12hours. Battery was 100 percent full when i put it in... and as for fuses.... those were the first thing i checked before i even figured out the i needed a new battery.
 

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Just A Spray Away
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The only suggestions I had are already out there. But, just to let you know, you won't ever hear a fuel pump activate on that bike as it is carburated. Unless you have some aftermarket setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The only suggestions I had are already out there. But, just to let you know, you won't ever hear a fuel pump activate on that bike as it is carburated. Unless you have some aftermarket setup.
im pretty sure it does have a fuel pump.... even a carbeurator needs some sort of a fuel delivery system other than gravity.... sure gravity would work on a lawnmower but on high performance motorcycles i think we need more than gravity...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thank you to all that gave it their best at helping. problem still isnt solved so im hoping other ideas will pop up.... if i figure it out ill get back to you guys... thx again for your help, in advance...
 

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SHIFT!!
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I think it is your starting circuit cut-off relay. But first, check the voltage of the battery, it should be no less than 12.7 Volts. If your battery is ok then try to bypass the kill swith by unpluging it and useing a jumper wire. Remember, your bike will only start if the kill switch is in the on position, the key in the on position and one of the following two: trans is in neutral OR clutch is pulled in and side stand is up.

If that doesn't work try to repalce the starting circuit cut-off relay. You can use one from a friends bike that you know starts up with no problems. The starting circuit cut-off relay probably has a 10x2 connector with 4 of the squares in one of the rows removed for the locking feature. It could also use a 7x2 connector with 2 squares removed. It is located between the battery and CDI.

If you can't obtain a cutoff relay then try to test it by following the manual procedure (it actually has a whole section on what to test and how to test it if the starter motor fails to turn). I would check it out if I were you, download the 1999 R6 service manual and look at page 8-18. http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/...254-r6-service-maintenance-repair-manual.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I think it is your starting circuit cut-off relay. But first, check the voltage of the battery, it should be no less than 12.7 Volts. If your battery is ok then try to bypass the kill swith by unpluging it and useing a jumper wire. Remember, your bike will only start if the kill switch is in the on position, the key in the on position and one of the following two: trans is in neutral OR clutch is pulled in and side stand is up.

If that doesn't work try to repalce the starting circuit cut-off relay. You can use one from a friends bike that you know starts up with no problems. The starting circuit cut-off relay probably has a 10x2 connector with 4 of the squares in one of the rows removed for the locking feature. It could also use a 7x2 connector with 2 squares removed. It is located between the battery and CDI.

If you can't obtain a cutoff relay then try to test it by following the manual procedure (it actually has a whole section on what to test and how to test it if the starter motor fails to turn). I would check it out if I were you, download the 1999 R6 service manual and look at page 8-18. http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/...254-r6-service-maintenance-repair-manual.html
check here to test you neutral switch

http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/...254-r6-service-maintenance-repair-manual.html

xero is right, beat me to it
thanks alot you guys i will try it out and post my findings... darn... service manuals??? YAY!!!!!!!:cheers:bow
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
SOOOOoooo...... after many hairpulling moments i figured it out....

it was my starter relay (thanks xero007).... and i figured it wasnt because i bought a brand new one from yamaha...the trouble is that when i tried to start the bike it was frying the relay each time i tried.... the problem that has been causing my relay to fry is the most dreaded of all.... a seized engine... (now im not 100% sure that is the issue.... it could be hydraulic lock (hopefully so i will take the carbs off tomorrow and figure that out...) if it is a seized engine how is it then that the engine could all of a sudden seize.... oil and oil pressure were always goodd on the bike and carefully watched on the bike.... and just in case it is seized can anyone suggest where i can get a new\used\rebuilt engine?
 

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FTW
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Your starter relay wouldn't fry from a seized engine... but your starter motor would...
and you'd definitely see some smoke coming out of it or something... or at least hear a nasty buzzing noise when trying to start.
 

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SHIFT!!
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I'm not so sure a seized motor would fry it. Some shorted wires will do it though. You can check if the motor is seized by lifting the rear tire off the ground, putting it into a gear and trying to spin the wheel with your hands by pulling on the spoke hard. It will be easiest in 6th and hardest in 1st.

Another way would be to sit on the bike with the kickstand up, pull in the clutch, put it into gear, have a buddy push you down the street as fast as he could and the let go of the clutch. If the motor spins it is not seized. If you have the key in the "on" position and kill switch in the "run" position you can start the engine. 1st gear will possibly cause your tire to skid and sixth should not, but it wont spin your engine as fast. If you have a hot chick (or any extra weight) on the back it would help.
 
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