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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Everyone,

I have been tinkering with my 2014 R6 with 17k mi. that I purchased used some 5k miles ago. Recently I noticed a bit of a rough idle, like idling at 2500rpm which caused me to investigate further. I looked at the manual (Attached Manual 416-417) and saw there was a sequence of possibilities that needed to be checked to correct the issue. So I tackled the first thing on the list which was checking valve clearances even though the manual calls for this maintenance every 26600 mi. I found that 6 of 8 of my exhaust clearances were off, while my intake clearances were all in spec (Attached measurements of clearances).

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Disappointed at my findings I did some more research and decided this was probably out of my realm due to me not being a mechanic. Which lead me to call a local repair shop and being quoted 500$ to adjust the valves even though I had most of the area already disassembled. This all took place before my college classes started (01/06/2021) so I had a lot of spare time on my hands and realistically could not afford to pay up so I went with adjusting it myself. I pulled the shims out and measured them with this digital caliper tool from Amazon then went ahead and purchased the necessary shims. I put them in and remeasured the clearances (Attached Second measurements).
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I felt like they were close enough and put it all together and topped it off with an oil filter and oil swap. I would like to add that in the middle of all scrambling a cold front storm swept by which knocked the bike over while its cylinder head cover was off and oil spilled out. I started the bike up and this heart-wrenching noise was produced (Linked motorcycle noise).

After watching the video a few times I saw that my tachometer rpm was off by 1K which I felt stupid since that was my entire reason for tearing the bike down.

My only idea of what could be wrong but ultimately I need help.

  1. The valve clearances still could be too close to out of spec which results in the noise, if you look at the second set of measurements. Intake 3 & 4 are close to out of spec and Exhaust 6 & 8 are the same.
Please take into account I am young and still learning, not a mechanic, and broke.

Thanks for coming to my Ted Talk,
Sincerely Young gun.
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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1st thing: recheck your cam timing. Make very sure the marks on the cam gears line up correctly when the crank “T” mark is aligned to the split in the cases. If that is correct, you need to see what is hitting what in the engine.

2nd turn the engine over by hand and see if you can feel the point of contact. Also watch the valves to make sure they are being moved freely by the cam lobes and returning back freely.

Hopefully that is something simple making contact with a case cover and not valves hitting the pistons, which would mean bent valves.
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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Another thought. It’s hard to really tell what it sounds like over speakers. Does it sound metallic, or could it be more like an exhaust leak? If so it could be a hose left off on the AIS ports on top of the valve cover. (or do you have block off plates installed on the valve cover?)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Another thought. It’s hard to really tell what it sounds like over speakers. Does it sound metallic, or could it be more like an exhaust leak? If so it could be a hose left off on the AIS ports on top of the valve cover. (or do you have block off plates installed on the valve cover?)
Block off plates. I believe it to be sorta metallic, I put my hand on the cylinder cover could feel it vibrating. I feel confident I need to lower the clearance for exhaust 8. I am going to redo the entire process of checking and adjusting my valve from start see how that makes it. Matter of fact, I just thought of removing the new shim and putting back in the old one for exhaust #8 to see if sound persists.
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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That noise is not from excessive valve clearance. At least not .229 mm. I always set valves as close to the high end as possible because valve lash typically tightens up over time. Something else is contacting something.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That noise is not from excessive valve clearance. At least not .229 mm. I always set valves as close to the high end as possible because valve lash typically tightens up over time. Something else is contacting something.
The reason why I feel it is from excessive valve clearance is that the feeler gauge slides in with ease so it is most likely higher than my recorded measurement.
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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I doesn’t matter if the valve clearance was 2.29 mm, it wouldn’t be that loud. It would be a “tick”. That sounds more like a “knocking”
 

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I agree with 8Ball it seems like a knock noise. Have you tried turning the motor by hand?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I agree with 8Ball it seems like a knock noise. Have you tried turning the motor by hand?
I am completely unfamiliar with how it should be but when I seemed to turn it by hand it is difficult even when sparks were removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I doesn’t matter if the valve clearance was 2.29 mm, it wouldn’t be that loud. It would be a “tick”. That sounds more like a “knocking”
That seems like a reasonable response, when I get it open again I will look out for any possible contact spots. Just another question, if it were contacting something how could that happen considering the noise was not present beforehand and I have not ridden the bike in its current state?
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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That seems like a reasonable response, when I get it open again I will look out for any possible contact spots. Just another question, if it were contacting something how could that happen considering the noise was not present beforehand and I have not ridden the bike in its current state?
something didn’t go back together correctly. You won’t know the answer to that until you open it back up and look
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
something didn’t go back together correctly. You won’t know the answer to that until you open it back up and look
I would just like to thank you for you time for each response, it means a lot to me for a stranger to provide guidance. I will tear the bike down tomorrow and have a look. I was looking around and found an issue that sounds similar to my case with a different bike. What do you think about this being a possibility?
 

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The motor has to turn without difficulty, I mean it doesn't have any kind of resistance.

I still have the video of my r6 model 05, there you can see what partner 8Ball said.

In the case of the r6 05 the exhaust mark is a little higher, they are not exact, I do not know the marks of your model 14, make sure that the marks of the cam are on the edge of the cylinder head, and the marks of T is aligned on the crankcase






I bet your problem is bad timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The motor has to turn without difficulty, I mean that it does not have any type of resistance.

I still have the video of my r6 model 05, there you can see what partner 8Ball said.

In the case of the r6 05 the exhaust mark is a little higher, they are not exact, I do not know the marks of your model 14, make sure that the marks of the cam are on the edge of the cylinder head, and the mark of T is aligned in the crankcase.

I appreciate the video, it looks similar to mine. After doing some more thorough reading of the manual it states that if abnormal noise is present when starting the bike to reinstall the timing chain tensioner. Looking into I found some sources state these can go bad. I then realized that I was having difficulty with mine initially. I will disassemble the chain tensioner and see if it could be the issue.
 

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Sorry for posting in Spanish, I'm on my phone, and I translate my message.

You could also in any case comment on any questions.
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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Before you do anything, check the timing marks. You don’t want mess with the tensioner without having the valve cover off anyway so you can make sure it doesn’t jump time when you take it out.
 

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Did you reset the timing chain tensioner before reinstalling. It’s sounds like the chain is rubbing the guide excessively.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
So I tore it down again and I found some things that seemed strange. My main concern is after putting the cam caps back in after setting the timing I noticed that timing seems to get moved a bit. Not sure if it is enough to make a difference. My next concern is if I remember correctly, I assembled the chain tensioner wrong the first time and could have possibly been another cause. I followed the manual and assembled it correctly this time around.


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I am wondering if my chain could be stretched, I saw a similar issue on this video where he changed the timing chain, and cam sprockets and it solved his problem. I tried multiple times to get the chain timing right after caps but no success. After watching the video I noticed he engaged the chain tensioner to ensure It does not skip time.

@8Ball @Phrozen @jlcr6
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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Looks to me like you’re off a tooth. When you put it together ALL the slack should be on the tensioner side. It needs to be tight on the front and between the cams. Your first set of photos looks like the chain isn’t even in the cam teeth
 

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I agree with 8Ball again. What I see in the first image is that you have a desynchronization in the exhaust cam is more than obvious.

In the second image it seems to be better, but for me it is still out of time, the intake cam is somewhat low and the exhaust cam somewhat high.

Do you have pictures of how it was in the first disassembly? Take pictures and videos of what you are doing, I consider it a good habit.

On the other hand, take your time and leave the cams synchronized, be careful with the T mark on the crankshaft when I was putting the chain in place and the intake cam, the T mark was misaligned.

On the video that you share, if the chain has play you have to check it with the tensioner on. As you can see in the video.
 
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