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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was out with my brother today riding our bikes and we stopped briefly to stretch and relax for probly 15 minutes before riding home. My bike had been riding great up until this point well we take off down the causeway and I get it up to about 70 still riding fine hit a rotary and I notice my speedometer shut off I go to give it gas and the bike dies. shut it down completely and go to fire it back up, nothing turns on. by this point im now parked on the side of the road, I give it a few minutes, turn the key and the display comes back but wont start the bike. I notice the display is dim like it may be a dead battery (brand new battery at the beginning of spring). the longer the bike sat there, the stronger the power seemed to get yet it wouldnt turn the bike over. I eventually had it towed home. when I got it home I attempted to start it again... battery seemed strong, again it wouldnt turn over though and made a noise when I hit the ignition.

leading up to this ive noticed a couple things but I thought I was just being crazy as I baby the hell out of my bike. I noticed that it seems to run a little warmer lately which I associated with the hot weather weve been getting lately. also ive noticed ticking under the seat when I turn the key thst I dont know if I remember hearing or not before.

any ideas what may be causing these issues?
 

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I eat what my R6 cooks!
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Sounds like something in the charging system took a shit. You were probably riding on the power the battery had left at some point, and then it died when the battery wasnt able to provide enough juice. As for what is wrong, it would be helpful if you could let us know what year yours is.
 

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I eat what my R6 cooks!
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The 2001s were known for having rectifier issues. Your best bet is to put the battery on a motorcycle charger. I suggest a battery tender jr. That will allow you to plug it in overnight and it will detect when the battery is at peak. After you take the charger off, check your voltage. Anything under 12v, and the battery is probably shot. If the battery is good, you can move on to testing the stator. I have personally never tested one(other than on my dirtbike), so I am just going to link you to other threads that describe the process.

http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103126
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156850

The 2001 models were known for having issues with the rectifier, so there is a decent chance that it may be the problem.
 

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I eat what my R6 cooks!
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I wish I could be of more help, but I haven't really run into any issues on my 03. I am sure if you give it a bit more time, some other guys on here will chime in and they can help you out some more.
 

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My bike hates me
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Check your grounds on the battery as well. Check the rectifier plug for burn marks. Thats what they were nutorious for. The rectifier is on the front of the battery tray. Its the black thing with fins, should have a big white plug on it. Otherwise if you can get it started and have a multimeter check your voltage when you have the bike at 5000 rpm. It should be putting out 13.8 volts i think. If its lower you have a charging system issue
 

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I have the same bike (2001), and I'm currently having the same exact issue. Bike died on me today after replacing the battery yesterday. I ordered a rectifier and plan to replace it tomorrow, I'll let you know if that resolves the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thank you very much guys, that has all been some insightful advice and I appreciate it.

mike, let me know how it goes
 

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Sorry for the delay. I was planning to replace my voltage regulator last week and then life got in the way. I finally installed a new one yesterday afternoon, but to no avail. When I got it out and unplugged it I discovered that the connector was fried. Burnt/melted plastic was gunked up inside the regulator port as well. I'm not sure how much wiring is involved to replace that connector.

Have you had any luck?
 

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My bike hates me
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Theres a thread here somewhere about fixing the plug. That could be your issue, if those connectors are dirty then it wont work.

Cant find the thread.. Basically what they did was remove the plug and got new connectors. First you make a diagram with the colors of the wires so you know what goes where. Then you get some shrink tube and slide that over your wires. Crimp on the new connectors. I like to put some solder on the connectors and the wires because they always come off on me. Then put the shrink tube over the connectors and shrink it with a lighter. Match up the wires to the proper connectors and plug them all in. Its a good idea to put some dielectric grease on them too.
 

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So it took me forever, but I finally replaced the regulator & plug. I also replaced the battery for good measure. I am now measuring about 13.5V off the battery leads at idle. I attached a pic of the old vs. new regulator plug. I don't know how it burned that much, but it was definitely the culprit, along with the regulator.
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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What you get at idle means very little. What are you getting at 5000 RPM? Should be around 14.5 Volts. If not, you still aren't charging the battery, and you will end up in the same boat, all over again
 

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When the bike was off the battery read 12.2V, with the ignition on (lights, etc) it dropped to about 11.5V, then at idle it read 13.5V... at 5000RPM it didn't increase, it never got higher than 13.5V.

But if it's more than when the bike is off then it's technically charging, no?
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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I would charge up the battery with a trickle charger and test it again. With a starting voltage as low as you had, it may be OK, but it should be over 14V at 5000 RPM. Since you started out at 12.2V, the charging system may not have enough umph to charge at 14, right now. But bear in mind that if the stator, is having to charge a low battery, it will be putting more current out to the rectifier and the wiring going to it....which can result in the same issue you just fixed.
 

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I charged the battery overnight, and re-installed it after work. When the bike was off I was measuring 12.6-12.8V, with ignition on: 12.2V, when I hit the starter it dropped to 10.8V. Then at idle: 13.5V again. I revved it up to 5K rpm, still 13.5V. Then something weird happened. When I brought it back down to idle voltage increased to about 14.2V. I revved it back up and voltage actually dropped. It went back down to 13.6 at 5K rpm, I revved up over 5K and it hovered between 13.5V and 13.7V... Never dropped below 13.5, and when I brought it back down to idle it went right back over 14V. I did that like 6 times to make sure it wasn't a bad reading on the multimeter.

I've read elsewhere that 13.5 is an ok charge. I'm a little confused as to why the charging system seems to work while the bike idles, but when I rev it up it seems to work in reverse... I didn't accel in the electro-magnetic part of physics class either, so I'm a bit lost now...
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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That is strange. Try this:
Unplug the rectifier and start the bike. Put the multi meter on AC voltage and measure across the 3 white wires (A to B, B to C and C to A). Write down the 3 readings at idle and at 5000 RPM:

-- --------Idle---------5K RPM
A-B ______ ________
B-C ______ ________
C-A ______ ________


They should all be even within a volt or two, and 5K they should be around 60 VAC
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
For mine, I had the regulator replaced and wiring fixed and I'm up and running. Hope you find the solution to your problem mike
 

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8Ball: I tested the stator and everything checked out. All leads were within a volt of each other at idle (around 15 VAC), and all were within a volt or 2 of 60 VAC at 5K RPM. I rode about 40 miles yesterday, mostly highway. When I got back nothing was burnt or melted, and the battery was still fully charged. I think I'm set... thanks for your help!

Haskell: If you don't mind me asking, what did it cost you to have that done? I'm wondering if it would've been worth saving the headache haha.
 
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