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I read that the R6 fans cut in at about 100-102. Are there any mods to adjust this? Ideally, I would like to drop it by about 10 degrees, to 92.
 

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I read that the R6 fans cut in at about 100-102. Are there any mods to adjust this? Ideally, I would like to drop it by about 10 degrees, to 92.
Converting this to Fahrenheit, that 100C would be 212F and 102C would be 215F. The fans are designed to kick on once they pass 214 degrees Fahrenheit, or 101 degrees Celsius. There are two ways to change when the fans kick in. One would be to flash the ECU and set the fans to come on when you would like. Bauce racing has a ECU flash where you can have the fans come on at 196 degrees (F) or 90 degrees (C). The other option would be to set your own toggle switch into the system. Basically you would control when the fans come on and turn off. This is a bit more complicated as it involves splicing into the wiring that controls your fans.
If you are worried about heat, start by changing your coolant. It's supposed to be done every two years, but I do mine every season.
 

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Thanks r6ben00. It's good to know that it can be done.

I've been thinking about it more, and figure there was a reason why the Yamaha engineers set 101C as the cut-on point, and not say 90C. My current hypothesis is this: Those radiator fans are formidable... each one is on its own 15A circuit. Assuming a nominal fuse rating of 135%, that would make it about 10A or so current draw per fan, for a total of 20A when they are running. When stopped and idling, you already have the draw of the headlamp and the fuel injectors, and now an additional 20A with the fans on. Could be the extra load would unduly tax the battery/alternator/charging system at idle. With a bigger battery as in an auto, that might be fine, but for the bike, there is the issue of weight/size. So I figure they may have bumped the fan cut-on point up for a trade-off between optimal engine temperature and load on the electrical system.
 

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Thanks r6ben00. It's good to know that it can be done.

I've been thinking about it more, and figure there was a reason why the Yamaha engineers set 101C as the cut-on point, and not say 90C. My current hypothesis is this: Those radiator fans are formidable... each one is on its own 15A circuit. Assuming a nominal fuse rating of 135%, that would make it about 10A or so current draw per fan, for a total of 20A when they are running. When stopped and idling, you already have the draw of the headlamp and the fuel injectors, and now an additional 20A with the fans on. Could be the extra load would unduly tax the battery/alternator/charging system at idle. With a bigger battery as in an auto, that might be fine, but for the bike, there is the issue of weight/size. So I figure they may have bumped the fan cut-on point up for a trade-off between optimal engine temperature and load on the electrical system.
it's none of that. it has to do with meeting Euro emissions standards. yes, bikes bound for the USA and Canada have the euro emissions regulations on them also. the higher temps keeps the converters hotter which helps them pass the nox emission tests.
 
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