[HostileMonk]

Checked out the full range of clicks available for rebound damping on the front forks of my 08 R6. From full in to full out there is 30 clicks on the left fork but only 24 on the right fork?

Is this normal? What are the implications for tuning the rebound damping?

help please

 

[Marty Moose]

Its ok its just the height of the cap on the cartridge rod and the position of the adjuster when it was put on. Just make sure you can bottom it out and count out from there. You will be using no where near the outer ranges of adjustment, the shim stack on the 08 is better than the 06-07 but its still pretty weak. Start at stock and see how you go. You old coot

MM

 

[HostileMonk]

Yeah thats what i thought till i read the note in the manual on page 3-22 - basically says "- - - the actual number of clicks represents the entire adjustment" "--- check the number of clicks of each damping force adjustment mechanism and modify the applications as necessary" Interpreted to my situation this seems to imply that 4 clicks on the right fork equals 5 clicks on the left! :curse :cuss Wondering if this is why Im getting tank slappers over skyline and the hill on the straight and 'weaving under braking' ie unequal damping?

Re your rebound issue - the 10 weight oil you are using may be no different than 5 weight oil of the same brand - '10 weight' oil can have a range of from 5 to 10wt - and they can use the same oil for 5 weight and 10 weight legitimately - also check the Viscosity Index not the labelled weight. see http://www.pvdwiki.com/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid if you havent already.

and less of the old :321

 

[Marty Moose]

No its the position of the needle in relation to its seat that determines the amount of by pass (damping). If you bottom the the adjuster (the needle in its seat) Then back it of 3 clicks its 3 cllicks on both sides 3 clicks is the same distance!

Yeh I use PVD's table Un equal damping will not cause your issue as the forks are bolted together via a very strong axle and both work throught it. Some riders even put differnt springs in either side to get the right rate, some forks have rebound adjustment in one leg and comp in the other. I'd be starting at the basics like head set tension. Also sky line had a direction change as you go over the top of a hill hard on the gas! Once you have checked your head tension look at the bikes ride height. What sags are you running? have you pulled the forks through? Lifted the rear?

Get a steering damper there is a reason why all the top boys (and everyone else) uses them. My bike also has a wiggle over there as does everyone elses. The big one I saw you have the previous races was caused by your rear breaking out! Have fun young man

MM

Ps if you want to rebuild your forks let me know.

 

[iHak]

I was about to write a new post asking about the same thing, but found this thread..

I just bought a used, "very good condition" set of forks, and I was messing around with the damping, and found that one has 30 click range, the other seems to have only 27.

The one with 27 clicks has a very definitive stopping point when I turn it counter clockwise all the way. (-->S) I'm used to that stopping point and I know what it feels like. But when turning it clockwise (<--H) it got a bit stiffer at 26 clicks in. At first I stopped there, confused.. it should have 4 more clicks, and I didn't feel the "stop". So I applied a very slight amount of pressure, only just slightly harder than a normal click, and it clicked again (to 27).
Anyone have any idea if I should just carefully keep turning it, until I get 30 clicks? I'm thinking that maybe it's just a bit stiff from not ever being touched..?

I don't know what to do because A: the other fork has 30 clicks, with a definite "stop" at each end, and B: I didn't feel that stopping point on this one.. it makes sense that it's just stiff and needs to be forced a bit but I don't know enough to know if I'd be damaging the fork or not.

Sorry for the long ramble.. My OCD.. I HATE when things are not even, especially when they should be.


These forks sat unused for several years, they came off an '09 with 7000 miles of mild street use, no stunts or wheelies and as far as I know they've never been serviced, which make the above reply less reassuring to me.. (I'm doubting Yamaha put the caps on unevenly..)

I'd be really grateful for some advice! Cheers!

 

[iHak]

Anyone?

 

[Mr. Azim]

Whatever you do, don't force the clicks trying to "find" those extra ones.

You should only be turning them with your thumb and index. it should take barely any effort to turn them. There shouldn't be a definite "stop", you may be forcing them. You should be stopping when the same amount of force on the last three clicks can't turn the next click.

When you're thinking "hey, this needs more effort to turn now" you should stop.

The forks would benefit from a cleaning and fluid replacement.

 

[iHak]

Thanks for clarifying that.. yeah, I definitely wont turn it anymore. (I didn't "force" the last click to 27, it was just slightly stiffer than the last and that's where I stopped. I hope I didn't do any damage.

So, is that fairly normal, to have a different range of clicks on either side?

The one that has 30 clicks doesn't get any stiffer at all, until I've reached 30 (or, rather when I've reached 30 and am "testing" to see if there are any more clicks.)

The one that goes to 27 has a definite different feel.. it gets ever-so-slightly stiffer on 26 and 27. It's got me all kinds of confused.

Whatever you do, don't force the clicks trying to "find" those extra ones.

You should only be turning them with your thumb and index. it should take barely any effort to turn them. There shouldn't be a definite "stop", you may be forcing them. You should be stopping when the same amount of force on the last three clicks can't turn the next click.

When you're thinking "hey, this needs more effort to turn now" you should stop.

The forks would benefit from a cleaning and fluid replacement.