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'02 Yamaha R6
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What are some of the symptoms of a bad regulator rectifier? Im trying to figure out my electrical issue. I can charge the battery and it will run for about 20 miles, not all consistant miles though... I can start the bike about 10-15 times within that time frame. So I am guessing the alternator is working somewhat, but I thought the stator either works or it dosnt work... no inbetween. Does this sound like a bad RR?
 

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Pigs can fly!
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Assuming you don't already have one: buy, beg, borrow, or steal a multimeter.
Stick it to your battery.
Measure the voltage at idle (engine + lights off), without charging it any extra. You want to see 12.6V or 12.7V.
Turn on your bike, and rev it to 5k rpm. What's the new measurement? You want to see 14V.
 

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'02 Yamaha R6
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I checked it an the battery is fine but when the engine is running at 5K its still reading about 12.5... Which sounds to me like the generator is not charging the battery, but i dont understand why the bike runs for so long if its not getting any charge
 

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What are some of the symptoms of a bad regulator rectifier? Im trying to figure out my electrical issue. I can charge the battery and it will run for about 20 miles, not all consistant miles though... I can start the bike about 10-15 times within that time frame. So I am guessing the alternator is working somewhat, but I thought the stator either works or it dosnt work... no inbetween. Does this sound like a bad RR?
bump, same problem, hoping its just the r/r and not the strator though. i jumped my bike from a car that was running and the r/r plug completley fried. the bike runs after being charged, only for a few hours.
 

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Pigs can fly!
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If you end up needing to replace the stator, stick to OEM.
If you get an aftermarket one, then they are usually wired to produce more energy. What they don't advertise for some odd reason is that you have to get a new R/R to handle the extra juice.

I got a stator from RM Stator, and they told me after I sent my stator back to them after it took a crap that since I did not purchase a new R/R, the stator going bad wasn't covered under their warranty. Load of bullshit.

But yeah. If you have to replace it, my recommendation is stick to OEM. :fact
 

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There was a thread on here about a week ago about how to test the stator. the regulator is not testable. this is that thread.

http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103126

Read it and test the stator. If the stator passes then it's your rectifier/regulator. There is another thread with one for sale here.

http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101842

Hope this helps.
i read that thread and have one quick question, wouldnt the readings remain the same when reved if the r/r plug is bad? my plug is toast, so i doubt that it is transmitting any energy from the stator, correct me if im wrong but isnt in sort of like a pathway kinda thing i.e. batterey-r/r-stator?
 

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you said your battery is 12v at 5k rpm. ok. that means you have a real problem.

follow this chart from the service manual. the 99-02 R6 was known for bad regulators and burnt wires at the plug. if you have a burnt wire or wires in the plug etc, you have to fix that before you even bother with anything else.

 

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the 99-02 R6 was known for bad regulators and burnt wires at the plug. if you have a burnt wire or wires in the plug etc, you have to fix that before you even bother with anything else.
^Follow this advice.

9/10 times its the plug going into the RR or the plug under the tank/heatshielding that runs from the stator to the RR.

I was having similar problems where the bike would charge somewhat but would eventually die even during sustained RPM such as riding on the freeway. My plug showed no absolutely no signs of burning until the problem worsened and the plug became blackened slightly. The fix was to clean all of the plug connection points (at the RR and under the tank) with fine grade sandpaper and clean with alcohol. I have not had a problem since. Even an alarmingly minute amount of contamination of the plug leads can lead to the behavior you describe.

Its rare for the RR itself to go out. If its the stator then you can do a resistance test to see if the stator has shorted out (I believe blue03r6 posted the test specs) or pull the cover off (make sure to have a new gasket on hand) and look for a blackened area of the windings.

The plugs/stator are not discrete/binary in their failure modes - its possible they can sort of kinda work which makes diagnosing the problem the more difficult.
 

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bump, same problem, hoping its just the r/r and not the strator though. i jumped my bike from a car that was running and the r/r plug completley fried.
Ummm.. you say the RR plug is completely fried. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say your problem is that the RR plug is completely fried. :D

Easy fix. Even if the plug is complete garbage you can buy spade connectors from your local autoparts store and use those in combinition with or in lieu of the original connector.
 

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i read that thread and have one quick question, wouldnt the readings remain the same when reved if the r/r plug is bad? my plug is toast, so i doubt that it is transmitting any energy from the stator, correct me if im wrong but isnt in sort of like a pathway kinda thing i.e. batterey-r/r-stator?
Most times the answer is no but it depends on the condition of the RR connector. What happens is the RR connector gets dirt/oxidation/whatever in it which causes an increase in resistance. This increase in resistance in turn creates heat (and a voltage drop) which further melts/damages the connector. This is a vicious cycle and eventually it is possible to destroy the connector so badly that it no longer conducts at all.

Its possible that your connector is making poor contact currently which is causing a voltage drop so when you rev the bike the voltage at the battery increases but not to the degree required. If this is the case and you leave it this way long enough eventually the connector will stop conducting alltogether and when you rev the bike you will not see an increase in voltage at the battery (in fact you would see a decrease).
 

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I'm having a similar problem.. when idling I get a weird high pitch pinging/whistling noise coming from under the seat near the R/R. I tested my battery and its running at a really high voltage! way over spec. my battery hasn't discharged, but my lowbeam headlights keep burning out.:scared I'm assuming I just have to place the R/R?
 

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My R6 is nice
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i too am having that problem. Is my ecu toast? It is makin a whining sound.
 

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Ok Time to bring this Thread back to life. Sooooo my battery wont charge. I just put a brand new RR last October 2015 and when i started working on my bike to try to fix the problem i noticed one of the pins on the plug to the R/R had burned.

So i went to Pep Boys and bought me spade connectors and replaced the pin that was broken. I'm still having the same issue. Tested it with a voltmeter and my battery was good. Didnt check the stator yet or may be my actual R/R went bad. I ordered a new one already but getting the one from the 2005 GSXR600 which is compatible and it's known to have fixed our R/R issue.

Going to check the stator this week hopefully is good and may have ill have to do all the pins of the plug that connects to the R/R with the spade connectors.

any suggestions guys?
 

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Bike's dash went blank, then engine would suddenly sputter and cut out while riding. Recharged battery, ran about 15 miles then suddenly sputtered out again. Shop diagnosed and is replacing voltage rectifier. Seems like a pricey shop $350 job.? If I knew what it was, I'd have been tempted to replace myself.
 

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~Faster Than Lightning~
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Bike's dash went blank, then engine would suddenly sputter and cut out while riding. Recharged battery, ran about 15 miles then suddenly sputtered out again. Shop diagnosed and is replacing voltage rectifier. Seems like a pricey shop $350 job.? If I knew what it was, I'd have been tempted to replace myself.
Wow that sucks dude..the GSXER's R/R works like a charm for these Yamis. It barely gets heated and it fits where the Yami stock one goes. However it is slightly bigger.

I would recommend doing this specially for our years bike :swordfigh...now my next maintenance is swapping out the spark plugs. MY coils are perfect lol....hopefully.
 

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I’m having the same issues as above with my 2002 R6 regulator, the connection wires to the stator and plug burn out. I was contemplating connecting the wires from the stator to the regulator without the connection plug.

Secondly I would like to test my regulator off the bike, if I connect a 12v power line to the wires that lead from the stator to the regulator, would I read 12v output on the wires that lead to battery.

Lastly, I now in the market to buy a new regulator, sick of buying the $25 junk, what would you recommend. Thanks Phil.
 
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