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Discussion Starter #1
Ive had an r6 raven for 8yrs, just got it back on the road after 6yrs of it inside in my laundry. Previous to the 6yrs i used it for 1.5yrs and previous to that it was garaged by the original owner for 4yrs unused.
So in about 12yrs it's done roughly 8000ks (38,000 total)

The sprokets are both new, as is the chain (although unused for 6yrs) The back tyre (2000ks) is 9yrs old. The front tyre (300ks) is 5yrs old.

I've serviced oil and filter, flushed coolant, bike runs great. However this same problem i too am having now -

shifting into 5th or 6th at town speeds (70-100kmph) it grabs on clutch shift, but then it feels (and sounds) like it grabs again upon clutch release "KA-THUMP"

I've tried quick shifting (no clutch) or holding clutch in for longer etc... Both just don't seem to work.

I grit my teeth every time i up shift into these 2 gears and picture the engine grabbing and killing me.

Also back end slipped out around a round about the other day which threw my confidence out the window, i know the back tyre is 9yrs old (should be throw out at 10 regardless) but it looks brand new exactly the same as other bikes I've maticulusly gone over, no cracks, but has the same shiny plastic look on the unused outer edges.

Anyway, any info on both would be great, cheers
 

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Your tires are way too old and hard, period! Replace them. That's all that keeps you from sliding down tarmac... Not even worth discussing if you ask me.

As far as your gears go, sounds like you need to pull apart your tranny. Could be your shift fork is bent and possibly the gears for 5th and 6th are bad. Needs to come apart to truly know.

Hope you get it sorted and stay off those tires!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Your tires are way too old and hard, period! Replace them. That's all that keeps you from sliding down tarmac... Not even worth discussing if you ask me.

As far as your gears go, sounds like you need to pull apart your tranny. Could be your shift fork is bent and possibly the gears for 5th and 6th are bad. Needs to come apart to truly know.

Hope you get it sorted and stay off those tires!

I've been reading from other riders that the clunk into those gears will happen when you're not pushing your bike hard enough, and changing gears under 4-5k?
Or possible because I'm in work boots?

Thanks for the reply
 

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Shift lever twists the end of a bar. Make sure that nut hasn't come loose, allowing it to slip a few notches.

With a sequential shift transmission, your shift should occur immediately as you reduce throttle. If you delay too long, the RPMs drop, which doesn't lend well to gear mesh.

If proper shift timing does not improve/eliminate the situation, then the transmission parts will have to be removed for inspection.

Re tires, just take it easy and judge for yourself. If you know you're the type that will NOT resist the twist of the wrist, (this probably fits few sport bike owners 🙂,) save yourself some money and get new tires now. Wait, how does one save money when buying tires? Because you'll be buying a lot more than new tires if you try to be thrifty and wait until later. 😉 If the tires really are decent right now, just plan to replace them sooner than normal; probably well before hitting the wear bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Shift lever twists the end of a bar. Make sure that nut hasn't come loose, allowing it to slip a few notches.

With a sequential shift transmission, your shift should occur immediately as you reduce throttle. If you delay too long, the RPMs drop, which doesn't lend well to gear mesh.
Thanks man, I've been reading quite a bit on here and tried the shift thing where you put pressure on the lever before clutching, works well.

But at one point while doing this i went from 1st-2nd and released my clutch and gear lever, but then i simply tapped up again to make sure it was in gear very softly - but it went into 3rd (no clutch). Very light tap again and it went into 4th (no clutch).

This bike has me worried, unless I'm the problem.
 

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A little pre-tense might be okay just for improving the timing, (meaning very little pressure,) but full-on pressing the shifter isn't a good idea. But it is designed for clutchless shifting. 🙂 For low RPM and slow acceleration, it's still best to use a little clutch on the 1 - 2 shift; simply because of the large ratio jump. But a full-on grab isn't necessary. Just a quick partial-pull is all that's required. Just takes practice. As with any manual transmission, the less mistakes you make, the less of a chance that damage will occur.

Also, never stomp on the shifter. Race builders it doesn't matter because it's coming apart, ~frequently~, anyway.
 

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Unless the bike was abused i highly doubt it has bent shift forks. Ive posted a video from yamaha on youtube many times. Its how to properly adjust your clutch. It sounds like once the clutch is hot you may not have enough cable slack.
As for the tires, 5 years is the max. Buy new ones



 

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In addition to the above suggestions, also check your shift linkage. Make sure it isn't getting stuck on the kickstand or anything else. Lift the rear wheels off the ground, and slowly navigate thru all the gears to make sure there is nothing blocking the linkage
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Unless the bike was abused i highly doubt it has bent shift forks. Ive posted a video from yamaha on youtube many times. Its how to properly adjust your clutch. It sounds like once the clutch is hot you may not have enough cable slack.
As for the tires, 5 years is the max. Buy new ones




Cheers mate I'll check this out tonight!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, so how do i know if i have any free play in the clutch? Mine doesn't feel like i have any free play whatsoever, it's tight all the way, it doesnt easily open at all...
 

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Clutch lever should have a slight amount of play (1/8" or so) before it gets stiff and starts engaging. If its tight immediately it needs adjusted (easy). This does not explain your problem in only 5th and 6th gear.

Has anything above fixed your problem?
 
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