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^^Slow guy on fast bike^^
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Has anyone run into an issue with this particular combination before?

I got a set of used Sharkskinz (The 'superbike' style) fairings and went to mock them up. I used the 2 bolts to the frame on the upper, loosely bolted it to the fairing stay, and then attached the lower with the dzus fasteners.

The #2 (#3 was very close) header pipe was firmly pressed against the front lower fairing, to where if I ran the engine, I was surely do some damage to the fiberglass. The bottom of the chin was close to the front tire, so I really couldn't pull it forward any more either..

I wonder if this is an issue specifically with the Yoshimura header, since they do seem to curve forward a little as you can see here.. (when I installed the exhaust, I did make sure to do it properly, leaving everything loose, then fully tightening the headers last, they seemed to find their "sweet spot" on their own as I tightened everything up)
 

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"The Dude abides .. "
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4,719 Posts
you can cut the front of the lower out.. into a "V".. and that may give ya some clearance. The, instal some heat shield on the inside of the bellypan (lower). Even if the header is touching the lower, that will keep it from burning the fiberglass.
That header is FUGGIN HUGE by the way.

sharkskinz are the best bodywork by far as well. amazing fit and finish. (assuming that is what ya got and someone didn't sell you something else). There will be a sticker imbedded in the resin on the inside of the bodywork with their logo. It may have been painted over though if they sprayed the inside black (like i do).
 

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^^Slow guy on fast bike^^
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86 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Greg.. It's genuine Sharkskinz..

I've been thinking about some heat shield or wrapping the pipes to keep heat out of the oil pan too.. The downside IME with the wrap is accelerated deterioration of the pipes (Don't care) and that they absorb every fluid that touches them.. Seen a few fires from it (on vehicles).

I was hesitant to cut the lower, since it looked to be made to force air up through the radiator, but ya gotta do whatcha gotta do...
 

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"The Dude abides .. "
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Thanks Greg.. It's genuine Sharkskinz..

I've been thinking about some heat shield or wrapping the pipes to keep heat out of the oil pan too.. The downside IME with the wrap is accelerated deterioration of the pipes (Don't care) and that they absorb every fluid that touches them.. Seen a few fires from it (on vehicles).

I was hesitant to cut the lower, since it looked to be made to force air up through the radiator, but ya gotta do whatcha gotta do...
I cut a "V" in the front of all of my lowers from sharkskins.. I prefer to have the air running through there rather than trapping additional heat from the headers during pit out, waiting for some idiot that can't remember his grid position, etc. LOL
Don't cut it ALL the way down or it won't hold fluid as designed to do.. And i have no idea if doing this to any degree will resolve your issue.

But, there won't be any issues with cooling, even racing down here in FL during the summer, and both bikes have built motors running MR12. Engine ice doesn't hurt, but stock rads, stock thermostat (leave it in), stock hoses, stock water pump, etc.
 

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^^Slow guy on fast bike^^
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86 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Mac- yeah, I could take a pic.. I'm sure it's more than 2 years old though.. Any particular angle that would help?

Melk - thanks again... I think cutting a V or a U in it would actually give the clearance I need..
 

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Vendor
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3,877 Posts
I have the exact same setup on my R6, cut a V as Melk described or U and that will fix the problem.

See this image for reference -


I basically just extended the opening of the lower down a bit further. I can't remember exactly how much I cut off though.

This one might help too -


PS those headers are going to turn into a golden bronze after a few heat cycles.
 

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^^Slow guy on fast bike^^
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86 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I have the exact same setup on my R6, cut a V as Melk described or U and that will fix the problem.

I basically just extended the opening of the lower down a bit further. I can't remember exactly how much I cut off though.
Looks like 8.374 inches.. perfect! :*tongue

Glad there's no adverse effects.

Dumb yet slightly amusing story-
A few days ago before everyone started replying, I was on the phone with Yoshimura asking if they had heard this before, and he said "we designed them around OEM bodywork, aftermarket race plastics may require modification".
I was in the process of politely suggesting that if they're going to sell a "race" exhaust (that requires signing a waiver stating it won't be used on the road before I could buy it), they might want to check fitment with some of the brand-name plastics, but as I started saying it, my wife was coming up our steep, snow (and right now, ice-covered) driveway, and saw her car do a slow-motion 150° pirouette in the middle of the driveway as gravity > available traction on the ice, and had to end the phone call rather abruptly to go see how far it had slid down the driveway. :eek:
(AWD Subaru & snow tires.. guess we'll be adding studs next year!) Ahh, the joys of living on the side of a hill.
 

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Pobrecitos
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19,911 Posts
Mac- yeah, I could take a pic.. I'm sure it's more than 2 years old though.. Any particular angle that would help?

Melk - thanks again... I think cutting a V or a U in it would actually give the clearance I need..
Sounds like you got it figured. The kickstand side is what I was most interested in.

I have the exact same setup on my R6, cut a V as Melk described or U and that will fix the problem.

See this image for reference -


I basically just extended the opening of the lower down a bit further. I can't remember exactly how much I cut off though.

This one might help too -


PS those headers are going to turn into a golden bronze after a few heat cycles.
I'm glad I stumbled on this thread, I really never cared for the lower, blocking off the header. Now I can correct it to my liking...
 
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