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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well last week i was riding the bike about 60 mph in 2nd gear not doing anything stupid. I heard a loud pop and lost throttle. I look in the mirror and i see smoke coming from the bike and a trail of fluid. I hit the kill switch and slowly bring the bike to a halt almost sliding the rear out. Well i get off the bike and see the chain has snapped and wrapped up in the front sprocket and oil is just poring out. I took it to a friends out and took the chain off. This is what i found. Please tell me some good news and tell me this can be fixed and welded back on. The chunk in my friends hand fits back perfect, no missing pieces from it at all. I don't have the money to spend on a new motor. Sorry bout the crappy pics.
 

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MACGYVER 05 R6 NJ
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By the look of it you may have cracked the case. Pay the 100 for the dealer to check it out it may be a bad seal on the crank shaft.
 

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You can TIG that back on, but the only problem would be the affected seals and orings behine the case. That will all have to all come aprt to change out that seal. I would like to know, if that locked up front sprocket, you had to hit the kill switch to kill the engine..... What did give, the clutch, likely, or did it strip the splines on the shaft. Take it apart to find out.
 

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Mr. B (Florida Boy)
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:eek5

DUDE...WTF!? :wtf:

I'm really sorry to hear about that and the pics look absolutely TERRIBLE! :(
I dont have any advice to offer on this, but I was wondering if anyone out there knows about ways to PREVENT this from happening?
 

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check your 15 link measurement every 6 months, ESPECIALLY if you do clutch wheelies. I work in the crane business and you would be surprised HOW MUCH chains stretch when under hard loads, but also amazing how brittle they can get after stretched. Extruded metal is a lot stronger, stretched is a lot weaker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You can TIG that back on, but the only problem would be the affected seals and orings behine the case. That will all have to all come aprt to change out that seal. I would like to know, if that locked up front sprocket, you had to hit the kill switch to kill the engine..... What did give, the clutch, likely, or did it strip the splines on the shaft. Take it apart to find out.
Well i dont know. When i was taking the chain off the trans was in gear. I put it into neutral and i was able to spin the sprocket so i can get the chain off. I hope is is just the clutch since those are cheap. Do you think the tig welding would cost alot? Its just a small piece. I have never taken a motor apart before so this is gonna be an adventure. When i get some free time and a helping hand im gonna take it apart.
 

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It shouldn't cost that much just check around at dif. shops. Bigger shops normally charge more. Smaller shop's that aren't as busy obviously want the work so there usually cheaper.
 

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MIG is less expensive to do, less prep, less experience, looks crappier, more shops probably have that capability but TIG would look better, stronger, won't have to worry about cracking in the future. My Tig/Mig/stick welder was $3500, most migs are only 600-1200. Probably a $80-$200 job, depends on how slow they are that day. First step is to get it all apart. look at what you are dealing with internal.
 

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Atom Smasher
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I don't think TIG would be the optimum way to weld that piece back in place. TIG welding produces a super high quality weld, but the metal being welded must be CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. I believe the engine case is cast and there will be alot of oil that has worked it's way into the pores in the metal, this will cause all kinds of porosity in the weld. SMAW or FLUX core may produce a better weld.

Talk to the guys at a local welding shop and get their input. Try to take it somewhere that does welding on pressure vessels (ASME accredited), not a plate shop or some guy that works out of his garage.

You should really have the engine torn apart and inspect for damage, if you are going to do that, you may as well throw down a little more money and replace the broken part(s).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
MIG is less expensive to do, less prep, less experience, looks crappier, more shops probably have that capability but TIG would look better, stronger, won't have to worry about cracking in the future. My Tig/Mig/stick welder was $3500, most migs are only 600-1200. Probably a $80-$200 job, depends on how slow they are that day. First step is to get it all apart. look at what you are dealing with internal.
Do i have to take out everything or can i just take out the trans parts.
 

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just trans stuff. while fluids are out, take off clutch cover and check that out....see if the plates are shredded, overheated, or cracked. Good luck.
 

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Love to RIDE!
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Good luck!
 

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WOW...... All I can say is WOW.

The exact same thing happened to me two days ago, and I mean the exact same thing. Heres the pics to prove it. I just JB Welded it shut tonight, hopefully it works, I'll be sure to let you know and brag that I spent 5 bucks on a tube of JB Weld and you spent 500 on a motor. HAHA Just kidding, I'll let you know though.







 

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thats actually a fairly common incident if your chain brakes. Like stated earlier, TIG is the best way to get it fixed on the cheap, but you do have to remove the bearing behind there first and soak the case in cleaner for a while. It costs about 100 bucks for the weld if you take the bearing out first. Good luck with replacing the engine, but remember that yours isn't that badly damaged, so you can sell that to someone who needs some new internals without a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
WOW...... All I can say is WOW.

The exact same thing happened to me two days ago, and I mean the exact same thing. Heres the pics to prove it. I just JB Welded it shut tonight, hopefully it works, I'll be sure to let you know and brag that I spent 5 bucks on a tube of JB Weld and you spent 500 on a motor. HAHA Just kidding, I'll let you know though.
WOW! That is almost a spitting image! Good luck with Jb weld. I am gonna be upset if thats all i had to do. haha. Now with a new motor atleast i dont have to worry about having to tear it down.
 

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Well so far it looks good but I have to wait a few more hours till I can start it up. According to JB-Weld's website this stuff can hold up in 600 degree temperatures and can withstand 3960 psi. If these statements are anywhere close to being true then there is no reason why this shouldn't work as long as I cleaned the surface well enough before I applied it, which I did. Operating temperature at its hottest is around 200 degrees and there probably only like 30 psi as far as oil pressure on the spot that I welded. All I can do is hope this stuff works its magic and if not I'll be in the same boat as you 90GT. :eek5



 

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Well I put a second coat of JB Weld on last night and started it up about an hour ago. Before when I would start it oil would just pour out the hole like crazy, but after two coats of JB Weld its as good as new. No sign of leaks or anything and I revved it up to 9,000 rpm and its still holding strong. I'm sorry to say 90GT but it seems like I fixed the hole in my engine for 5 dollars and two hours of labor. So essentially I fixed the hole in my engine faster than I could get a new chain. Its on backorder till Tuesday and so now its like this whole engine block incident never happened because I wouldn't have been able to drive it without a chain anyway. Good luck with the engine install, I'll be sure to give another report when I get it back on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Nice. I might just do that to they old motor. I have it sitting in my garage. I def. wanna know how it holds up over time
 
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