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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed 1 .90 and 1 .95 ohlins springs in my forks as long with a 20mm ohlins valve kit. I have rebuilt many forks before never put in cool new internals like I did this time but it's still no different then just a regular rebuild. I did everything just like manual states for both tear down and rebuild. I did the clutch side fork first and then I did the brake side. Everything went smooth as usual except after I finished I noticed something looked kinda off.

The silver piece on the top is not even close to even


I haven't been able to ride it yet because my ECU is getting flashed by the great Ant but I have sat on it and bounced the front end as well as pulled the front down off the bike. The suspension feels way better ( my old springs and oil were bad 7k miles on the bike).

I have am extra set of cartridges with caps for my forks (it's a 07 if anyone doesn't know) so I looked at the caps on the spares and they look the fork on the brake side.


The only thing that not really worries me but kind of concerns me is that the clutch side has more adjustablity because you can screw the gold part (not the greatest at setting suspension so I don't know the proper names) down more.


What do you guys think? Should I pull the cap off the brake side and make sure the dampening rod is seated properly or maybe the cartridge isn't screwed down all the way. Idk I'm kinda lost and before I tear them back open I'd like to get some opinions on WTF could cause this

Thanks.
 

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That's definitely a problem. If you pull that fork off you will probably find that the whole leg in the bottom moves in and out and pulls that silver part in and out with it. Something is not right inside there. We pulled forks off a bike that were like this. Haven't opened em to see wtf isn't connected but yes, you definitely have a problem there!


:YEA
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
On the clutch side or brake side? My 09 r6 and a set of 05 636 and 99 r1 forks look like the clutch side fork. I'm going to pull the cap and check the cartridge is tighten down and the screw that sits under the cap that I think controls the damper rod to make sure it's seated in the cartridge tube thing right. You think I've read enough manuals but I still don't know the parts names just where they and where they go lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Isn't it just because the preload just set differently? The right side has none, the left side has just over two lines.
When you turn the gold adjuster the silver collar moves down and that compresses the spring.
No tried loosening/tightening the gold screw to get it push the silver part down....no luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Aren't the springs tapered? Maybe you got one upside down?
No I put the springs in the right way for sure. It's easy to tell they're tapered



Maybe one of the caps is damaged then?

I don't think the cap is damaged because I have my 2 backup caps look the same. I think it has something to do with either the cartridge not being screwed all the way in the damping rod not seat properly or the nut under the cap isn't down far enough. I hope it's one of those that way I can just take the cap off and not have to pull the tubes apart and take it all the way down again.
 

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fwiw, my forks with traxxion cartridges look like your clutch side, and my forks with stock internals look like your brake side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I just took the fork apart again and for whatever reason I can not get that part of the cap to go back down. I tried everything. I then took one of spare fork caps that look my brake side cap and couldn't get it to go down further either. I took the bike around the block and was hitting the front brakes hard and it felt great. It's 1000% better then stock springs a valving so I think I'm going to leave it as and when I get to barber I'll see if anyone there knows what the deal is. It's annoying but it works way better then stick so I can't complain. If anyone else has an idea of something that I'm just missing please let know.
 

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springs are not tapered...
The OEM are on several models. Not quite sure what OP's problem is, but I believe i is in the fork caps, not the springs.
 

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I just googled a picture of some 07 forks and the caps all look like your break side. So maybe the problem is the side thats all the way down?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just googled a picture of some 07 forks and the caps all look like your break side. So maybe the problem is the side thats all the way down?
My caps looked like my clutch side before I put the ohlins springs in. But like I said I have a backup set of cartridges with caps and the caps on those look like my brake side. I tried mess ion with one but couldn't get it down. I think it might have to do with the springs. On my clutch side I have a .90 spring. In my brake side I have a .95 spring. Idk what is causing it but I'm going to play with a spare cap more to see if I can do anything about it. It's really worried but the front end with the new valving and springs feels great.


The OEM are on several models. Not quite sure what OP's problem is, but I believe i is in the fork caps, not the springs.
The problem is in the fork cap I know that it's pretty obvious. My question I'm looking to get answered is what would cause it to sit like that and how can I fix it.
 

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ummmm.......don't want to sound crazy here.....but.......your fork caps are mechanical which means that you have to put a 17mm wrench on the preload adjuster to turn them. the "silver" parts you are seeing are nothing more than the adjusters that move "up" and "down" as you +/- adjust preload.

now the simple question and not meant to hurt anyone's feelings here....when you removed the caps did you turn the 17mm gold preload adjuster or did you turn the 36mm silver outer cap? sounds simple but we see it all the time and when guys use the 17mm they "stick" the preload adjuster rendering the cap useless.

what you are showing has nothing to do with the install of the cartridges (making no commits on if they are correct or incorrect, as they are inside and can not be seen) it is a direct function of the preload adjuster; one is turned in, one is turned out. if cartridges were installed incorrect it would show up as one leg being longer than the other; these will have a slight difference as one leg has more preload than the other thus pushing into the top out spring futher but you get the idea.
 

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ummmm.......don't want to sound crazy here.....but.......your fork caps are mechanical which means that you have to put a 17mm wrench on the preload adjuster to turn them. the "silver" parts you are seeing are nothing more than the adjusters that move "up" and "down" as you +/- adjust preload.

now the simple question and not meant to hurt anyone's feelings here....when you removed the caps did you turn the 17mm gold preload adjuster or did you turn the 36mm silver outer cap? sounds simple but we see it all the time and when guys use the 17mm they "stick" the preload adjuster rendering the cap useless.

what you are showing has nothing to do with the install of the cartridges (making no commits on if they are correct or incorrect, as they are inside and can not be seen) it is a direct function of the preload adjuster; one is turned in, one is turned out. if cartridges were installed incorrect it would show up as one leg being longer than the other; these will have a slight difference as one leg has more preload than the other thus pushing into the top out spring futher but you get the idea.
^^This^^

GMD - Isnt it recommended to back out all adjusters prior to disassembling the forks?
 

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^^This^^

GMD - Isnt it recommended to back out all adjusters prior to disassembling the forks?
yes........but the question is......did he use the 17mm gold preload adjuster to remove cap......or did he "back off" 17mm gold preload adjusters....then remove the cap with the 36mm silver "cap removal part". (the outside of the cap)

if you use the 17mm gold preload adjusters to REMOVE the cap they can "jam". this could be reason why he can no longer turn preload adjusters.
 
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