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zomething different
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i was just wondering if anyone here uses these bleeder screws, or something similar. it seems that it would make bleeding your front brakes much easier. not needing that extra pair of hands to close the valve before letting off the lever would be very nice. :fact :yes

http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=5092
 

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I've read it's worth it and I do plan on getting some...

I also read it is not allowed in some race classes though... But thats not a concern for me..
 

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ew, i LOVE this. how have i never heard about these before?!

and before you go spending money on the internet, check your local race shops - i bet they have something that works just like this. support your local shops! ;) then forum vendors. :sing ;)
 

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Life is best beyond 10k
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I have them on my front calipers. Works very nicely IF you use them right. When they say open them a quarter of a turn only, they mean only a quarter turn!!!

Works well when you're small and trying to bleed the left caliper and you can't reach over to the lever and the caliper. I plan on getting some for my car and the MC on the bike.
 

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Riding his own ride...
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They work if you use them like normal bleeders. Just in case you don't close it enough you still have a fail safe. I use them, but I still bleed the brakes the old fashioned way. It's just a backup in case I don't close them quick enough. Makes the job a bit easier, but i've never found a replacement for the old fashioned way. I even stopped using the mityvac's entirely.
 

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I picked up a set for both the front and back calipers when I ordered my last helmet from sportbiketrackgear. Still haven't put on the rear set as its not really a problem bleeding with only one man.

Two things to note:
1. You have to replace the screws when the lines are full, so you'll make a mess when changing from the old screws to your new ones.
2. Like LMGM said, only one quarter turn does the trick. Wouldn't go any more than that.

Overall, the things work dope. Make bleeding the fronts much quicker as you don't have to do the open/close cycle. Just pump open the screw, pump the lever and fill the reservoir until you see clean fluid, then close the screw. Do the other side, and you're golden. Very worth it IMO
 

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Just another r6'er
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955 Posts
I might buy these.. and I'll put them in when I install my brake lines.
 

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Life is best beyond 10k
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I might buy these.. and I'll put them in when I install my brake lines.
Just be careful of the brake fluid. When you unscrew the stock valve, it will leak a lot of brake fluid. Just be prepared for that. Swap out the screws really quick, replace the lines then bleed the fluid.
 

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iRun
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Don't waste your money... get some rubber tubing and a small cup and you're good to go. **See attachment**



Put some brake fluid in the bottom of the cup and make sure the end of your tube is IN the fluid in the cup.. open the bleeder all the way and pump that biotch until there's no air bubbles in the tube. Less wasted fluid and less wasted time.. and almost no mess!
 

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Just another r6'er
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955 Posts
Just be careful of the brake fluid. When you unscrew the stock valve, it will leak a lot of brake fluid. Just be prepared for that. Swap out the screws really quick, replace the lines then bleed the fluid.
yeah, thanks
Don't waste your money... get some rubber tubing and a small cup and you're good to go. **See attachment**



Put some brake fluid in the bottom of the cup and make sure the end of your tube is IN the fluid in the cup.. open the bleeder all the way and pump that biotch until there's no air bubbles in the tube. Less wasted fluid and less wasted time.. and almost no mess!
With this method you don't have to open/close the bleeder?
 

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iRun
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Life is best beyond 10k
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Just another r6'er
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between/while pumps

How much brake fluid will i need for front/rear change?
Also which motul should i get? I don't race, no track here. So high boiling point isn't needed.
 

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Life is best beyond 10k
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between/while pumps

How much brake fluid will i need for front/rear change?
Also which motul should i get? I don't race, no track here. So high boiling point isn't needed.
1 bottle of fluid should be enough for everything.
 

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iRun
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Uh, what? You need to open the bleeder nut a bit to let fluid out... :dunce:
Yeah, just open it... pump until you're blue in the face.. then close it.

between/while pumps

How much brake fluid will i need for front/rear change?
Also which motul should i get? I don't race, no track here. So high boiling point isn't needed.
Go with the smallest amount you can get. I got a pint of RBF600 and that was more than enough for two changes (especially if you're not wasting it).
 

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zomething different
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
thanks for the input guys and gal. :D

ew, i LOVE this. how have i never heard about these before?!

and before you go spending money on the internet, check your local race shops - i bet they have something that works just like this. support your local shops! ;) then forum vendors. :sing ;)
our local shop is closing it's doors at the end of the month. small ma and pa type shop owned by racers/riders. now all i have is the typical big stealership and the internet. :( :thumbdown

They work if you use them like normal bleeders. Just in case you don't close it enough you still have a fail safe. I use them, but I still bleed the brakes the old fashioned way. It's just a backup in case I don't close them quick enough. Makes the job a bit easier, but i've never found a replacement for the old fashioned way. I even stopped using the mityvac's entirely.
dude, i tried that tool. that thing is a POS. always let air back into the line. turned a simple job into a big headache. :rant

Don't waste your money... get some rubber tubing and a small cup and you're good to go. **See attachment**



Put some brake fluid in the bottom of the cup and make sure the end of your tube is IN the fluid in the cup.. open the bleeder all the way and pump that biotch until there's no air bubbles in the tube. Less wasted fluid and less wasted time.. and almost no mess!
Neope. I wish I'd have known about it sooner.
hmmm, i'm confused man. how do you bleed using this method? :confused: i do the old school rubber line and a bottle technique. squeeze the lever, open the valve, close the valve, release the lever. just trying to turn a 2 man job into a 1 man job.
 

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iRun
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hmmm, i'm confused man. how do you bleed using this method? :confused: i do the old school rubber line and a bottle technique. squeeze the lever, open the valve, close the valve, release the lever. just trying to turn a 2 man job into a 1 man job.

The reason what I'm doing is different than what you're doing is the fluid in the bottom of the cup. The first time you open the bleeder and pump, some of the fluid in the lines (and probably some air pockets) get pushed into the hose. Air in the hose gets pushed out the other end.

When you release the lever only fluid gets sucked into the hose. Repeating this eventually pushes ALL the air out of the hose/line. Just keep dumping the cup into the reservoir (when one gets empty or the other gets full) and you're not wasting any fluid!



I effed with my rear line for 3 hours with no improvement... Then I did this for 15 minutes and I was good to go.
 

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zomething different
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The reason what I'm doing is different than what you're doing is the fluid in the bottom of the cup. The first time you open the bleeder and pump, some of the fluid in the lines (and probably some air pockets) get pushed into the hose. Air in the hose gets pushed out the other end.

When you release the lever only fluid gets sucked into the hose. Repeating this eventually pushes ALL the air out of the hose/line. Just keep dumping the cup into the reservoir (when one gets empty or the other gets full) and you're not wasting any fluid!



I effed with my rear line for 3 hours with no improvement... Then I did this for 15 minutes and I was good to go.
thanks for the clarification, i'll give this a try tonight. it is so annoying when you can't seem to get rid of those damn bubbles. :rant
 
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