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Discussion Starter #1
What brand/type of spray paint do you guys use for your track fairings. Do you just hit up the local Home Depot or Lowe's and use whatever they sell or is there a specific brand/type that would be better suited for the job?
 

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iRun
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If you want factory colors, hit colorrite (or colorite, not sure) otherwise just hit a hardware store...

Talk to ASTEBBS or Dieselboy or Agg2001-- they have/are doing track fairing rattle-can jobs that look pretty sweet.



EDIT: Or just post this thread in General Discussions. Lots of guys have painted track fairings around here (just not me. :D)
 

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wait till i'm done with stebby's new paint. gonna be BAWLAH!

edit: i buy the cheapest white and black i can find, and then whatever color i want. :|
 

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Waiting for remission...
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I went and got Dupli Color from the local Autozone to do my bike. You can use the best paint in the universe but if you don't put in the time to prep the fairings it's gonna look like shit in the end.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cool, thanks for the suggestions. I have patience, so hopefully it will translate into something that looks decent.
 

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My R6 eats you.
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I went and got Dupli Color from the local Autozone to do my bike. You can use the best paint in the universe but if you don't put in the time to prep the fairings it's gonna look like shit in the end.
Most fairings come primed already, I just wiped mine down with IPA and painted.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Do you guys usually leave your tank the original color as well, or just paint over it also? I don't want to ruin the original paint on my tank, but seems like I can't find matching colors without spending a good amount on ColorRite products.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I might try something simple like this, since my tank is already blue and I don't really want to mess with it.
 

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My R6 eats you.
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Yeah that should be pretty simple to do. I didn't do my tank either. I also had to wait 72 hours for the paint of each color to dry before I could tape it off and start another color. The white gets filthy, but the magic eraser sponge cleans it up in a few minutes.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
That looks awesome Dieselboy. I had originally had the lowers in black. Tried it in paint, but wasn't sure I really liked it or not. Don't mind the outlines between colors. I was using that to help me switch colors easily in paint.
 

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Official Noob Greeter
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The paint isnt the issue.... If I may, the biggest part of getting a really nice finish has little to do with the actual paint itself, at least for the most part. Really, the best finishes are done by the pros with the right equipment, but if you want to rattle can it, you can get good results. ITS ALL IN THE PREP!!!!! You may need to do a lot of mudwork, sanding, sanding, and more sanding. Then, wet sanding...tack rags... Also, you need to have a makeshift paint booth for best results, as this will help keep the dust and shit out.

Basically, get the fairings smooth first, with body filler and sanding... you dont need to wet sand the primer right away. If your fairings are crappy, you may want to consider a high build primer. I do three to four light coats of primer, making sure they are dry. Then, do a quick sand and rinse. once they are dry and dust free, I like to hit them with a primer sealer. You want to pick a primer color that isnt super dark if you plan to use lighter colors, or you'll need more paint to cover it. I usually use light gray primer.

Once you have them primed and sealed properly, I give them another quick sand, down to say 320 to 400 grit. You dont want too smooth or the paint wont grip as well IMO. Now, I bring them into my homemade paint booth, rinse them and let them dry. Once they are dry and you have your downdraft going, hit them with a tack rag to get ALL dust off them. Also, you dont want to get your fingerprints or ANY contaminant one the surfaces you intend to paint or you'll get orange peel. Once you are sure the fairings are dry and dust free, you can start applying your base paint coat. You should avoid the temptation to get tons of paint on there and do a one coat finish!!!!!!! You want light even coats, making sure to let the paint dry between coats. If you have a proper setup in your booth, you wont have to do much work, if any, between coats. I try to do 3 to 4 light coats. Make sure that it is dry before you add another coat, or it will orange peel. I suggest three days before you add another color layer or try to tape, just to be sure.

Once you have finished your first color, you will likely need to do some finish sanding to smooth the surface due to the less than optimum spray nozzle. Lightly wet sand with high grit paper (1000+) to remove the minor imperfections once the paint has dried, then rinse. You can now tape off everything that is not part of your second color, and make sure you do a good job on your tape edges or it will bleed!!!!!!! Also, anything you miss is likely to get paint, so tape it off completely!!! Once you are sure you have done a good job taping, you can fire up the downdraft, tack rag the area to be painted (YOU DIDNT TOUCH THESE AREAS DID YOU!!!!), and hit it with the paint, just as you did before, a few light, even, patient coats. It is important you go light, especially around taped edges, for two reasons. First, too much paint on the tape may case the tape to contract slightly as it dries, allowing subsequent coats to bleed under. Second, it will leave a defined edge on the painted edge that will be a bitch to sand off without damaging the base coat. KEEP IT LIGHT and BE PATIENT!!!!!!! Once you are SURE the paint is dried, you can remove the tape and admire your work. Lightly wet sand with high grit (1000+) as you did on the base color to remove any imperfections and smooth any tape lines. Work slowly and carefully. Once thats done, completely rinse and let dry again.

Any subsequent colors are applied just like the second layer. Take your time, work carefully, and use light coats. Keep it clean and you should be able to avoid orange peel.

Once you have your colors done, you can add a few layers of clear to make them really pop. Before I clear, I make sure to exhaustively check for imperfections and dirt. I like to go up to 1500 grit wet sand on the color base before I do the clear. Once thats been done, back to the downdraft with the tack rag and hit with the clear, again with light even coats. Let the coats dry completely between coats. Once you have a few coats, you should be good to give it the final wet sandings, going up to as high a grit as you can find. The higher the grit, the smoother the finish will be. Once you have gotten them smoothed, they should look pretty damn good at this point, so just hit them with some good wax and slap them on.

This should take you quite some time if you want high quality results. You can knock them out in less than a week if you dont mind orange peel and not the smoothest finish...
 

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Yeah, Ive done a couple sets.... each better than the last.

As for a paint booth, being that I work for CARB and home paint booths are largely illegal here in CA...I cant specifically tell you how to do it, but if you were so inclined, or lived in another state..... :sing

You might want to make a modular setup that can be taken apart for future use (and easy space saving storage and the ability to let people borrow it).

Parts needed.... 2x4s for structure, 2-3 of those home depot flood lights for adequate lighting, two box fans, a couple home heater air filters, lots of heavy duty plastic for walls, staple gun for mounting plastic walls, a couple rolls of duct tape, and a few feet of stick on velcro for a door closure. You will also want to have a water source for rinsing parts. I used a hand pump garden sprayer and DISTILLED water to make sure that the water you use doesnt drop contaminants.

You need a frame, making sure to have enough room to work and walk around anything you may paint. I suggest using 2x4s to construct such a structure, including a roof. I hang the lights from the 2x4 ceiling so they wont fall and the cords run out the top. Cover the entire frame with heavy duty plastic, making sure to leave yourself a door. SEAL EVERY SINGLE AREA WITH DUCT TAPE...around the walls, staples, light cords, corners, etc. Any area air can get in will allow dirt to get in and fcuk up your paint.

For the door closure, I use a few feet of stick on velcro so I can open and close the door adequately. I also use the thick painters tape (blue) on the inside around the door seal once I am inside, so make sure you have everything you need before you seal yourself in.

You will be mounting the air filter on the roof, making absolutely sure to tape off any areas around it so any air entering through this inlet is filtered. Also, you should mount the fans on the bottom of two walls blowing out so it sucks the air out of the booth from top to bottom, creating a downdraft that pulls any dirt in the air toward the bottom. I go so far as to lightly wet the the plastic floor of the booth to keep dust down. Also, SEAL OFF THE FANS TO THE WALLS and unless you want to have paint dust all over everything near your booth, you should put adequately sized air filters on the fans on the inside of the booth to catch paint particles.

I used door hinges on the four walls so I could easily remove the pins and collapse the booth. Its not cheap to build, so I suggest that you get a few people in on it to help offset the cost, but the results are MUCH better.

Also, the larger the booth you build the more fans and inlets you will need. You want a nice light down drafted breeze in there.
 

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Also, it really helps to have a jig to hold parts for painting. I suggest a pole with a heavy base on it, a good sawhorse, or a couple hooks hanging from the roof....or all of the above.
 
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