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or a dolly. :D
yeah... hand trucks work pretty good too...:laugh Ive even used a wire coat hanger up through the ram air vent...:laugh

Whatever works.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Nice info on the painting process redisdeadrideblue. I might have to change up the color scheme as I can't find a blue that is close enough to the Yamaha blue. Don't want to pay $35 or something for the ColorRite cans. Going to look awkward with the only blue being the tank.
 

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i used valspar blue. close enough counts in hand grenades, horse shoes, fat women, and "yamaha blue" colors. :)



 

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man, those pics are old. black draft pan, no can slider, no stomp grip, "clean" track tank, good looking track bodywork. :laugh

i sure know how to ruin a good thing. :lmao
 

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Discussion Starter #35
That's looking real good ASTEBBS.

AGG2001: I actually picked up the Valspar Royal Blue, as the Blue seemed too light. I might test it out on a small part of the bodywork to see how it comes out.
 

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That's looking real good ASTEBBS.

AGG2001: I actually picked up the Valspar Royal Blue, as the Blue seemed too light. I might test it out on a small part of the bodywork to see how it comes out.
Hey bro don't even worry about the blue matching your tank, I'm in the process of also painting my track fairings, have a thread with some color designs I had in mind. I bought the blue from Home Depot. The way I see it when your on the track most of your body is gonna be covering the tank. Like said above though for it to come out good its takes alot of patience and prep work. I bought a set of used fairings that were lowsided, I fiberglassed the cracks and used primer filler and did alot of sanding and so far its looking good I'll get some pics up once done, my lowers are done and will post some pics tomorrow. Here is my post http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129172
 

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Yeah, Ive done a couple sets.... each better than the last.

As for a paint booth, being that I work for CARB and home paint booths are largely illegal here in CA...I cant specifically tell you how to do it, but if you were so inclined, or lived in another state..... :sing

You might want to make a modular setup that can be taken apart for future use (and easy space saving storage and the ability to let people borrow it).

Parts needed.... 2x4s for structure, 2-3 of those home depot flood lights for adequate lighting, two box fans, a couple home heater air filters, lots of heavy duty plastic for walls, staple gun for mounting plastic walls, a couple rolls of duct tape, and a few feet of stick on velcro for a door closure. You will also want to have a water source for rinsing parts. I used a hand pump garden sprayer and DISTILLED water to make sure that the water you use doesnt drop contaminants.

You need a frame, making sure to have enough room to work and walk around anything you may paint. I suggest using 2x4s to construct such a structure, including a roof. I hang the lights from the 2x4 ceiling so they wont fall and the cords run out the top. Cover the entire frame with heavy duty plastic, making sure to leave yourself a door. SEAL EVERY SINGLE AREA WITH DUCT TAPE...around the walls, staples, light cords, corners, etc. Any area air can get in will allow dirt to get in and fcuk up your paint.

For the door closure, I use a few feet of stick on velcro so I can open and close the door adequately. I also use the thick painters tape (blue) on the inside around the door seal once I am inside, so make sure you have everything you need before you seal yourself in.

You will be mounting the air filter on the roof, making absolutely sure to tape off any areas around it so any air entering through this inlet is filtered. Also, you should mount the fans on the bottom of two walls blowing out so it sucks the air out of the booth from top to bottom, creating a downdraft that pulls any dirt in the air toward the bottom. I go so far as to lightly wet the the plastic floor of the booth to keep dust down. Also, SEAL OFF THE FANS TO THE WALLS and unless you want to have paint dust all over everything near your booth, you should put adequately sized air filters on the fans on the inside of the booth to catch paint particles.

I used door hinges on the four walls so I could easily remove the pins and collapse the booth. Its not cheap to build, so I suggest that you get a few people in on it to help offset the cost, but the results are MUCH better.

Also, the larger the booth you build the more fans and inlets you will need. You want a nice light down drafted breeze in there.
QFT:^^^^^^^^^^^^^

And with my amendment for rattle canning. Basically everything is identical except for the finishing part. As mentioned be sure the primer coats are good and that you sand them lightly for color to stick. Then apply light coats ( of your rattle can color ) just as mentioned in above quote. Where things really change is at the end for the clear coat. For whatever reason, most spray paint cans don't like to have clear coat added to them. They tend to wrinkle or just don't work very well. So lay on your color coats a little bit thicker with the last coat or two to give yourself some color to burn through. Not too heavy, just enough that you have something to actually sand. Once all your color coats are on and you are happy with the initial results, it's time for the fun stuff.

Don't worry about orange peeling or a overall imperfect finish, as we are going to make one. After the paint has had time to dry ( about 1-2 days ) we are going to wet sand the entire work piece. To wet sand you get yourself some automotive sand paper 800 - 2000 grit and a sauce pan or pot filled with water. Lightly........ and I mean lightly, sand the entire work piece with the wet sand paper. Keeping the paper wet and wiping away excess material buildup. You only want to sand until the painted surface starts getting smooth. AS soon as it's smooth move to another area. Continue this process until you are all the way up to the 2000 grit paper. You should have a very smooth and hazy looking surface that is ready for finishing.

To finish you get your self some micro fiber rags and some rubbing compound. Apply a small amount of rubbing compound to the paint and work it in with your micro fiber rag or terry cloth rag. You continue to do this until a very shiny and polished surface appears. It will take some elbow grease but the finish will look better than a cars finish. I found hat using rubbing compound is usually good enough, but if you really want a super fine finish you can use polishing compound too. To me the rubbing compound does enough.

Some tips:

If you sand through theh paint don't worry. Simply re-apply a light coat of color over the sanded through area, let dry and re sand it smooth again.

If you really want a finish with depth, use a paint color with a pearl, or sparkle look. this will add depth and make the paint pop.

Be very patient. Let each layer of paint flash ( get dry to the touch ) before laying on another color.

Be very light handed when wet sanding. Let the paper do the work. And keep working over large areas until it just becomes smooth and move on.

The rubbing compound works bets with a soft terry cloth, foam pad, or micro fiber rag. Work in circular motions, following the directions on the bottle. This will yield a very nice glass like finish.

Her is a pictorial list of things you will need:

Rubbing compound:


Sand paper: 800-2000 grit


Paint: Preferable acrylic enamel


Polishing rags or pads:

I got a 3 pack with a velcro pad holder of terry cloth and it works great.

A package of cleaning rags for removing excess paint buildup while wet sanding:


when done you will have a very nice finish. Here is my bike with no wet sanding done at all (this photo is recent):


And here is a more recent project that I did polish:



As you can see a very nice finish can be acquired using only rattle cans.
 

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good ole "cliff's" ftw. haha... thanks luke!

definitely some good info in this thread. and some good schemes too. :sing :D
 

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Discussion Starter #39
So, I have been trying to spray paint my fairings and testing it out on the tail section first. No matter how much I sand and prep, I can't get that nice smooth glossy finish. Bought some yellow spray paint to do the number plate area and it came out nice as hell....until I tried to put a clear coat on. Then it started to crack and lift up.

Was an absolute pain the a** to get the paint off. Sanding it didn't work, using paint thinner barely worked and scraping it off got most of it off. But now I have these scrapes in the bodywork that I couldn't seem to get out without sanding through the primer. Ugh, what a pain.
 
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