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Discussion Starter #41
I already completely removed the yellow. It was so happy because it came out better than the black I was doing. Then I go to clear and it ruined it.

I looked at what type of spray I got and while they were all Valspar brand, the yellow can was a Premium Enamel (which was the same as the clear I bought) and the black was different. The clear seems to work well on the black.

The bottom of tail section has 2 coats of clear and I didn't care to prep too well as it will be getting debris kicked up on it by the tires either way, but on the top section you can see the gashes in the paint. I might see if another layer will fill them in, if not I might try and sand it down completely again.
 

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AFM #327
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I already completely removed the yellow. It was so happy because it came out better than the black I was doing. Then I go to clear and it ruined it.

I looked at what type of spray I got and while they were all Valspar brand, the yellow can was a Premium Enamel (which was the same as the clear I bought) and the black was different. The clear seems to work well on the black.

The bottom of tail section has 2 coats of clear and I didn't care to prep too well as it will be getting debris kicked up on it by the tires either way, but on the top section you can see the gashes in the paint. I might see if another layer will fill them in, if not I might try and sand it down completely again.

what brand is the bodywork?
 

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crashing aint so bad
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I have come to the realization ( recently ) that clear coating rattle can paint with rattle can clear coat is not ideal. It almost always seems to wrinkle and or lift the color. What I have found is that you can wet sand the color coats and then buff it back to a polish. It will look just like a clear coated finish, but it won't be quite as durable.

The only way I have found to put clear coat on color without wrinkle, is to spray it on the color as if it was another coat of color. The issue is that you have to use several more coats of clear on top of still wet color. This means that you have a very thick layer of paint that is all wet and has to cure before you can handle it. That can take weeks depending on how thick you lay on everything.

It seems to me that the best way to do a polished finish is to simply wet sand and polish regular enamel acrylic paint, or use the automotive paints that you have to buy at a paint shop. From what I understand, lacquer is a little less fussy about laying on clear over color, but is very hard to find in rattle can form these days. It also cannot be sprayed over acrylic enamel.

Painting is a P.I.T.A, but is fun to do and when you get it figured out it is rewarding.
 

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slow guy
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I've never had any luck with rattle can clearcoat. That would explain all the problems I have everytime I get to that step.

I think I'm going to try what you do Luke when I paint my track fairings.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #48
Hmm, maybe I did put the yellow on a little thicker than I did the black color. I only gave it 24hrs to dry which worked with the black coats, but now that I think about it, I put on several light coats of black and the yellow I put less and heavier coats on.

I don't need a perfect paint job, just don't want stuff to peel off or wrinkle.
 

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Obama MUST go!!!
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if your getting cracks using clear make sure your not putting "lacquer" clear over acrylic enamel paint. It will crack and look like broken glass. A lot of the clear coats are lacquer, so be careful.
 

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Track=Cocaine
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Great thread... Def sub'd for pointers on building paint booth, and getting the best results out of a rattle can paint job on my track fairings! Thanks guys! It will ALL end up in my build thread... So keep an eye out if interested!

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Motorcycle App
 

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I went and got Dupli Color from the local Autozone to do my bike. You can use the best paint in the universe but if you don't put in the time to prep the fairings it's gonna look like shit in the end.
Same here. I used Dupli-Color on my old GSXR, and splurged and bought a 2 part urethane clear coat in a rattle can online. It's ALL about the prep work. Any flaws in the plastics will show through regardless if your using a $5 rattle can or PPG or Color Rite.

OP, if you do some searching on this forum, there is a guy that used color rite to paint his mid fairing blue. He lists all his supplies and how he does everything.
 

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I AM CORNHOLIO!
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all these bikes i did with rattle can Rustoleum. as has been mentioned before, prep work and patience is most important. light, even coats, and plenty of time to dry and tape properly in between. usually takes me about 2 weeks to do a set, but you need that time so you dont feel rushed, and start skipping steps.


 

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Anyone have any images of a red/white and blue paint job? I am wanting to do some type of patriotic theme on my race bike. I'm thinking yami blue with white stars on the upper and red/white stripes on the lower. Not sure how this would work with sponsorship stickers though which is a concern
On second thought that seems like a pain. Maybe blue with large stars on both the upper and lower and red/white stripes on the front fender and tail. That sounds a bit easier to pull off
 

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all these bikes i did with rattle can Rustoleum. as has been mentioned before, prep work and patience is most important. light, even coats, and plenty of time to dry and tape properly in between. usually takes me about 2 weeks to do a set, but you need that time so you dont feel rushed, and start skipping steps.


did u clear it or just polish?
 

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Anyone have any images of a red/white and blue paint job? I am wanting to do some type of patriotic theme on my race bike. I'm thinking yami blue with white stars on the upper and red/white stripes on the lower. Not sure how this would work with sponsorship stickers though which is a concern
On second thought that seems like a pain. Maybe blue with large stars on both the upper and lower and red/white stripes on the front fender and tail. That sounds a bit easier to pull off
i was also thinking of a patriotic theme as well, but that just encouraged me to buy a new helmet such as the one from SBTG or the Ben Spies replica. :laugh
 

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The Decal Guy
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Anyone have any images of a red/white and blue paint job? I am wanting to do some type of patriotic theme on my race bike. I'm thinking yami blue with white stars on the upper and red/white stripes on the lower. Not sure how this would work with sponsorship stickers though which is a concern
On second thought that seems like a pain. Maybe blue with large stars on both the upper and lower and red/white stripes on the front fender and tail. That sounds a bit easier to pull off
Well you could talk to NickG013 about getting those sponsor stickers made so they were all the same color and matched your paint scheme... :sing
 

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Question about painting.

Im assuming that you are taping off each area thats getting color in between coats. For instance, on the lower fairing taping off the area you want black from the top part of the lower. Then when adding color taping over the black paint you just did so that is an even layer across the fairing?

Are you doing anything different when painting the rims or gas tank?

Any tips for painting rims and gas tank?
 

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I AM CORNHOLIO!
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@ Shawn3210...the blue honda was polished only, the white and yellow R1's were both cleared.

@ gotthefeelin...yes you must tape any area you dont want painted, or when changing colors. if you painted a color and wanna add another color to the same panel, you best wait at least 2 days before taping the first color, otherwise you risk lifting the first color off when removing the tape because it did not dry long enough, or your masking paper may stick to it. for masking i simply use newspaper. if it is not dry it will also bleed into the new color. also, DO NOT remove tape from any area that has been painted before 2-3 days, again you risk lifting the paint. also, REMOVE TAPE SLOWLY, do not "rip" it off. rims and tanks if already painted need to be scuffed well before painting, don't paint on a shiny, slick surface. i give wheels 2-3 extra coats paint and 2-3 extra of clear so they are more durable. remember as well, the more layers of paint the longer it needs to dry and cure. this is why you need 2 weeks or so to allow drying time before handling or installing on the bike. i complete my jobs a month or more before i take it to the track to insure they good and cured.
 
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