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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i just got a 2000 R6, 20,000 miles everything seems ok. But it was having a hard time accelerating in 1st then in 2nd wouldnt go past 20-30 mph. So i downloaded the service manual and it says replace CDI since i couldnt get it into self test mode for TPS.

Replaced CDI and now it goes better in 1st still sputtery and 2nd is better but shifting into 3rd same issue as before. So not sure what to look at, has a fresh tank of gas, oil is good (level, going to replace once i figure out this problem).

Also neutral light is on in every gear so not sure if just the switch is bad. Im mainly a car guy so bikes are new to me. Also in the military took the MSF coarse so ready to ride this little beast.

Ill post pics soon too.
 

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So i just got a 2000 R6, 20,000 miles everything seems ok. But it was having a hard time accelerating in 1st then in 2nd wouldnt go past 20-30 mph. So i downloaded the service manual and it says replace CDI since i couldnt get it into self test mode for TPS.

Replaced CDI and now it goes better in 1st still sputtery and 2nd is better but shifting into 3rd same issue as before. So not sure what to look at, has a fresh tank of gas, oil is good (level, going to replace once i figure out this problem).

Also neutral light is on in every gear so not sure if just the switch is bad. Im mainly a car guy so bikes are new to me. Also in the military took the MSF coarse so ready to ride this little beast.

Ill post pics soon too.
Welcome :wave

On the 1st generation R6's the most common cause of sputtering is dirty carbs, or poorly tuned carbs. Start with the task of removing the carbs, cleaning the jets out.. If it has a jet kit maybe make some adjustments. If the exhaust is aftermarket, drill out the pilot screw caps and adjust them. That's usually what causes the sputtering. If it doesn't have a jet kit, I'd suggest getting one. It's not a necessity tho. The link in my signature to my 02 thread has some pics of the carbs and info on how to remove em and whatnot. If you're not a good mechanic, you may wanna have it done. It will cost a few hundred bucks tho. You need to be good with linkages and adjusting the cables, etc..

Sometimes difficulty getting the bike to rev or past a speed could indicate bad or rotted ignition coils, but it's less likely on the 1st gens.

AND, the TPS only advances the timing on this model. It doesn't dictate any air fuel ratio/mixture or anything, so even if it's a hair off, it usually isn't a major issue. I rarely see people even checking them on the 1st gens.

Where are you located and let's see some pics bro!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! Ill work on doing that this weekend, ive already taken the carbs of once trying to figure out what the problem was. When i finally got it from my friends house i was able to rev it in 2nd to 84mph but the shifting to 3rd it wouldnt go anywere.
 

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Thanks! Ill work on doing that this weekend, ive already taken the carbs of once trying to figure out what the problem was. When i finally got it from my friends house i was able to rev it in 2nd to 84mph but the shifting to 3rd it wouldnt go anywere.
You could have a loose vacuum line bro. I posted a pic recently of it for someone else.

The hose on top with the brass t on it is a vacuum line.



Also, give us more info to help narrow it down. The sputtering is most likely pilot jets being clogged and not adjusted.

But give us details on throttle percentage, etc.. Like maintaining speed it sputters.. Less than 1/8th throttle it sputters, or it's smooth till it hits 8k RPMs.. Or when you burp the gas, or gun it, it hesitates, bogs, breaks up then takes off.. Info like that helps a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok since i live on base i drove it to work and back to try to see if i could narrow it down.

In first at slower speeds (1-15) its pretty smooth and then seams to hesitate and then at about 6k rpm will go. Then ill shift high in the rpms and sometimes it will hesitate and kind of keep going or it will just not go at all. Then in 3rd will maintain speed but only about 30ish mph but still wont go even with throttle pinned or at any amount.

Now when im in 2nd or 3rd since im sure it wont even accelerate in 4th. I havethe throttle pinned and it just wont accelerate at all, Ill back off and it might pick up letting off. Its also not consistent.

So tonight i did take the carbs off to clean them since i know it cant hurt to least clean them out. What i did notice is the vacuum hose that you pointed out looked like it was replaced with a wrong hose ( was kinked) and wasnt really tight on that brass T fitting.

So going to replace hose and clean hope it fixes it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
YAY! Fixed the problem and i feel dumb but glad its fixed. I thought when i looked at the hose setup it was correct. But it wasnt, the 2 hoses that go right to the air box wernt going to the air box, one was other was going to the little black box and the vacuum line in the back was going to the air box. switched them and its working much better.

Also had the wrong plugs in it, they were cr8's? and 2 of the carbs had a sealent to fix a leak? all it did was clogg the crap out of the jets.

So now that it drives great it got new michelin 2ct's ( did the 70 series) and ordered all the bolts and mounts and hoses that im missing. Also go mirror block offs, crg arrow mirror, grips, shorty levers, and bidding on a undertail.
 

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YAY! Fixed the problem and i feel dumb but glad its fixed. I thought when i looked at the hose setup it was correct. But it wasnt, the 2 hoses that go right to the air box wernt going to the air box, one was other was going to the little black box and the vacuum line in the back was going to the air box. switched them and its working much better.

Also had the wrong plugs in it, they were cr8's? and 2 of the carbs had a sealent to fix a leak? all it did was clogg the crap out of the jets.

So now that it drives great it got new michelin 2ct's ( did the 70 series) and ordered all the bolts and mounts and hoses that im missing. Also go mirror block offs, crg arrow mirror, grips, shorty levers, and bidding on a undertail.
Awesome bro. I'm glad the pic and info helped you to narrow it down.

If they used sealant on the bowls of the carb, get new gaskets. Everyone tries to re-use them, but if they were over torqued, they will always leak. It sucks cause it's like $6 each.

With that 70 series, you're gonna notice a HUGE difference. Make sure you lower the front of the bike 5 mm to keep things the same as before the 70 series.

That's crazy it had CR8's in it too! This thing was a mess! It's always the best bet to tear things apart and rebuild em.

:cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks! After some miles and more riding, having like a lack of fuel problem when i rev to 6 to 10k rpm then after 10k it goes smooth again. not sure if its just not jetted right.
 

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Thanks! After some miles and more riding, having like a lack of fuel problem when i rev to 6 to 10k rpm then after 10k it goes smooth again. not sure if its just not jetted right.
If you are on the bike riding it, and at half throttle or more, if it bogs between 6-10k, then hauls ass, it's probably the needles in the carbs which need to be adjusted. I lifted mine one line and it eliminated that problem for me. This is the most likely scenario, especially if the exhaust isn't stock.

It could also be, but it's less likely, that the float levels are not correct, and when the bike needs the fuel at that RPM, it's not all there.. You'd notice an increase in the problem when leaning the bike thru turns tho.

AND it also could be a vacuum leak on one or more of the carbs, which is not letting the slides/needles raise like they should be.

AND, a carb synch will help with breaking up during the slide lift phase of acceleration. But unless you separate the carbs, or mess with the synch screws this isn't gonna be the culprit.

The MOST likely scenario is the needles need to be raised...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ya in turns its fine doesnt bog just when im on it and get to those rpm's.

Now i feel dumb for asking but what needle are you talking about to raise. the only one i know about is the pilot screw that i can adjust. I put those all at 2 screws out.
 

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Ya in turns its fine doesnt bog just when im on it and get to those rpm's.

Now i feel dumb for asking but what needle are you talking about to raise. the only one i know about is the pilot screw that i can adjust. I put those all at 2 screws out.
If you have an aftermarket exhaust, I'd suggest setting the pilot screws out more. Like almost 3 turns or so.

The needles I mention are the ones on the slides in the carbs. When you are on the gas and get into the 6-10 k range, the slides in the carb open. The needles adjust the amount of fuel delivered as the slides are opening. Jet kits come with different needles that are adjustable by using a c clip. But with stock needles you can shim them with mini washers (needle shims) to richen the mixture which will eliminate that rough hesitation
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
sweet, i plan on doing this next weekend, just got done lowering the front for the taller 70 tire, raised the fender, and put on a crg arrow mirror. Next weekend is gunna be tuning.

So on these washers is it a washer i can get at a bike shop or go to the hardware store and find one?
 

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sweet, i plan on doing this next weekend, just got done lowering the front for the taller 70 tire, raised the fender, and put on a crg arrow mirror. Next weekend is gunna be tuning.

So on these washers is it a washer i can get at a bike shop or go to the hardware store and find one?
You can order the "shims" which are just tiny washers from places like factory pro, and around the internet. Most people I know just pull the needle out, bring it with em to the hardware store or home depot and will by one that slides over the needle but is really small.

This is a pic I stole off a quick google search (not an R6 pic):
 
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