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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,


Coming into work this morning noticed a boring plastic smell. Then some point later noticed my battery voltage was low. When I got to work found the source of the smell. My stator wire had melted. Any idea why?
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It seems like just one of the wires is melted on the harness but all three on the stator. Should I try cutting them and wiring up so atleast I can get home?


Also stator is an aftermarket one from a reputable company was £140 I belive. I installed it probably about 10 months ago been working great since. Also same time I changed the rectifier to an OEM

Help much appreciated.
 

· YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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You are going to need to test regulator/rectifier as a diode is probably bad. Definitely internal winding short on stator. Inspect all the insulation for crispy or melted or cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You are going to need to test regulator/rectifier as a diode is probably bad. Definitely internal winding short on stator. Inspect all the insulation for crispy or melted or cracks.
Hey man thanks for the reply. Any idea how i test the rectifier? ill open her up tomorrow after work and check the stator.
 

· YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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Ohm meter resistance between one wire to the metal core continuity is bad. Then each of the other 3. Then wire to the others. That should be a spec resistance.
 

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Probably an issue effecting your stator. I'd disconnect it and use the reserve battery to get home till you can diagnose what is causing your stator to over charge the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Some additional info; I've re wired the cable started the bike and it immediately started melting the electrical tape. Anyway I charged the battery disconnected the stator and managed to run it for 15 minutes ish or about 3 miles before volts droped to 9v lost dash and decided to turn it off. Rewired the stator disconnected headlight just to use less power, push started it and manged to go another 20 before fans kicked in and died again. Volts vere dropping much much much slower with stator connected.


So stator and rectifier still seem to be somewhat working.

Anyone know if its normal to run for only 15 mins on full battery ? I don't think so. Possibly a short somewhere?
 

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what rpm do you ride at? one or two thousand rpm will also make a large difference. i'm sorry i wasn't more detailed, was just pointing out the fact it is safe to ride on battery power alone.
 

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well, just referencing track rpm range - you can go as low as 2k rpm without hurting the engine. and you tend to accelerate out of turns, so there is a higher load on the engine then just coasting.
that is cutting your voltage requirements by over 50%

personally, I wouldn't go below 3
 

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If you have any add-on electronics, disable them until you get this figured out. The entire length of wire getting hot or just the pins in the harness? The wire harness for the blower motor in a prior car melted like that, but at a much slower pace. The cause in that case wasn't the blower motor or the resistor assembly. The contacts in the wire harness had corroded, which effectively turned them into resistors; converting much of the energy flowing through them into heat. I assume you bypassed the harness completely? If the wires are hot check the regulator's ground connection back to the battery. The alternator in a prior car ran the stator inside of it, full field until it burned out. Just replacing the regulator in that alternator made no difference so it was the stator that burnt out. Cause in that case was a weak connection back to the battery negative; confirmed via voltage drop test from alternator case to battery negative post. Stator in that alternator was ssuuppeerr hot and the regulator read over 15v prior to burnout. When wires are overheated, they tend to damage their insulation. So both the wires, wire harness and stator may require replacement at minimum. Partial operation may be a result of one or more of the regulator circuits faulting. Have the battery tested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok so stator is definitely burned. Now need to figure out if it's the rectifier that burned the stator. Or if rectifier is still fine. I'm low on cash atm so need to spend the least possible.

I was still getting 14v while the wires were melting at the start... nt sure if that means anything
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well you'll get multiple different answers here. most of which will be "they are always done in pairs" or something to that extent. to my knowledge of electrical circuits, the only safe way to verify you are good to after swapping out the stator is actively monitoring the charging system at all times, as the issue could happen after riding. the only way i can think of is semi-hard wiring a volt meter to the battery and monitoring the charging voltage.... but I'm not 100% sure that will show how much the stator is outputting.
 

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well you'll get multiple different answers here. most of which will be "they are always done in pairs" or something to that extent. to my knowledge of electrical circuits, the only safe way to verify you are good to after swapping out the stator is actively monitoring the charging system at all times, as the issue could happen after riding. the only way i can think of is semi-hard wiring a volt meter to the battery and monitoring the charging voltage.... but I'm not 100% sure that will show how much the stator is outputting.
I had similar problem with charging system and installed simple volt meter with a on/off switch to stop draining battery when not riding. (£10) eBay.

It will show you normal battery voltage and charging voltage during ride.

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I relayed a USB power plug which showed the voltage.


With a relay, there's no threat of forgetting to turn it off; coming back to a dead battery. Also convenient to not have to turn it on.
 
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