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Sounds to me like you dont know what a damper actually is... a shock absorber. Stroke length aint got shit to do with anything.
Maybe you haven't mounted many dampers to different bikes?

the stroke length absolutely matters if youre silly enough to try and mount it in the wrong spot. the length of the stroke need to accommodate the rotation of the forks / bars, as well as the distance between the mounting points whether that be on the bars / forks, side fo the frame etc
A damper mounted across the tank, requires a relatively short damper, and wont have adequate stroke to be mounted in a side mount.
See attached photos - photo 1 would not work in the location in photo 2 as it would be too short, and if you DID get it mounted, it would stop the bars from turning properly in one or both directions.

Hence the universal damper, as I mentioned, is designed to accommodate mounting in a variety of locations.

That wouldnt matter for a rotary damper of course, but OP specifically asked about linear Ohlins dampers:smile:
 

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Even RC motorcycles have dampers. I got it before I rode a motorcycle. If I didn't have that I might have crashed already. Learned a lot of what not to do such as hold the power all the way on a power wheelie. Once it goes over the crash is catastrophic.
 

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Even RC motorcycles have dampers. I got it before I rode a motorcycle. If I didn't have that I might have crashed already. Learned a lot of what not to do such as hold the power all the way on a power wheelie. Once it goes over the crash is catastrophic.
Ok that didnt take long for you to indict yourself...lol.
All due respect here your reasoning is flawed.
Also its very evident you have not ridden anything insanely fast or capable of pulling the front wheel off the ground over 100mph.

Id wager you ride around with "duck" feet and favor the center of your seat.

What kind of R6 do you ride that makes any appreciable power??:wink:
 

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Ok that didnt take long for you to indict yourself...lol.
All due respect here your reasoning is flawed.
Also its very evident you have not ridden anything insanely fast or capable of pulling the front wheel off the ground over 100mph.

Id wager you ride around with "duck" feet and favor the center of your seat.

What kind of R6 do you ride that makes any appreciable power??:wink:
With all due respect, your accusations are offensive. Saying my RC nitro bike understanding makes me look bad and invalidates my high-performance riding skill accomplishments is offensive. I feel as though people like you don't deserve to know certain things even if it ultimately results in them making it into Hell. The only way is if I can pool everything I do into one sequential understanding pattern to cycle would it only be understood. But the amount of work to do that would be so Professional money should be made. Trying to sell ideas and correct theories that are real. Trying to save people from Hell and making $0 with still the high-chance of not being believed. To actually set transfer the reputation and credibility each and every time in a concise and clear manner that someone calls me out especially those who ride and don't even need advice. People read people like you and your advice and it steers them away from listening to people like me and they die or worse. Though some people do believe me but they don't show themselves or stick up for me at times.

Don't miss scale RC built correctly is the same as full-scale. Look at how the US Navy test model ships. They use small scaled ships then make the big thing. I know it seems kind of foolish to compare a smaller model to the real thing when you aren't an engineer at all but if you just try and think like an engineer you would understand they can relate in a way 1:1. I've rode an '18 S1000RR. 88mph in a 25mph during a demo lap. Prob hit 88mph before 1 block was up. If you consider an '18 S1000RR not high-performance enough.. I ride an '05 R6 with lots of mods. It power wheelies extremely hard at times in 1. Doesn't matter if I own no bike. A damper does matter.
 

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... To actually set transfer the reputation and credibility each and every time in a concise and clear manner that someone calls me out especially those who ride and don't even need advice. People read people like you and your advice and it steers them away from listening to people like me and they die or worse. Though some people do believe me but they don't show themselves or stick up for me at times.

Don't miss scale RC built correctly is the same as full-scale. Look at how the US Navy test model ships. They use small scaled ships then make the big thing. I know it seems kind of foolish to compare a smaller model to the real thing when you aren't an engineer at all but if you just try and think like an engineer you would understand they can relate in a way 1:1. I've rode an '18 S1000RR. 88mph in a 25mph during a demo lap. Prob hit 88mph before 1 block was up. If you consider an '18 S1000RR not high-performance enough.. I ride an '05 R6 with lots of mods. It power wheelies extremely hard at times in 1. Doesn't matter if I own no bike. A damper does matter.
you rode a S1000RR to <90mph and thats your sample size?
you built scale models of nitro bikes and thats how you determined a damper is required?

Stop being dramatic about the deaths of riders. Most of the street guys (90%) crash from lack of basic ride skill ability. Over reaction, panic braking, or poor mechanical condition... or a combination of the 3.

Yamaha has way more money and research resources than you could ever dream of...even on an RC scale. Do you think there is a reason the bikes YZFs dont come equipped with dampers from the production line? Like GSXRs and ZXs or CBRs?

My point? Dampers aint going to save shit for a casual street rider. Otherwise there would be GSXRs, ZXs, and CBRs in uncrashed condition. :grin:

I guarantee... a rider that claims they "need" a damper(outside of racing)... has not addressed the basic bike setup (spring rate, sag, properly lubed suspension pivots, etc) let alone proper tire pressure.
 

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you rode a S1000RR to <90mph and thats your sample size?
you built scale models of nitro bikes and thats how you determined a damper is required?

Stop being dramatic about the deaths of riders. Most of the street guys (90%) crash from lack of basic ride skill ability. Over reaction, panic braking, or poor mechanical condition... or a combination of the 3.

Yamaha has way more money and research resources than you could ever dream of...even on an RC scale. Do you think there is a reason the bikes YZFs dont come equipped with dampers from the production line? Like GSXRs and ZXs or CBRs?

My point? Dampers aint going to save shit for a casual street rider. Otherwise there would be GSXRs, ZXs, and CBRs in uncrashed condition. :grin:

I guarantee... a rider that claims they "need" a damper(outside of racing)... has not addressed the basic bike setup (spring rate, sag, properly lubed suspension pivots, etc) let alone proper tire pressure.
Why do you have to talk shit about RC scale? Why don't you question why you are upset? Perhaps you are being "used" so people could ride with vulnerabilities that open themselves up to crashing and being on the ground bankrupting their families etc. Every way to make us ride and come home like nothing happened is what to do. In a way I criminally speed All the time but I do it wisely.

https://scontent.fewr1-4.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/42627553_10210227458681346_4819793066707648512_o.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_ht=scontent.fewr1-4.fna&oh=3a0d23a57b7eabf94b15c3137e8528af&oe=5C86A408

I did 88mph in a 25mph with less than 1 block of room to work with while in parade staggered column side by side formation. Looking back I wouldn't have done it but my confidence, focus, and feel were through the roof plus it was my only time w/ the bike so I wanted to explore the power a bit. We went on the highway later. Did 123mph on the highway w/ it but it sucked because it was limited to 9k RPM due to break-in limit. Did a 6th gear pull in 40mph and it still felt slow unlike what everyone else was saying. I had enough space to pull prob 150mph if the limiter was removed lol. Not like 150mph is fast. I do it on the R6 w/ the same spacing. Prob would have hit 170mph but idk. It felt like a toy bike. Like a big power wheels toy. I thought because it was a demo but they said it's the same as the showroom floor model. My R6 feels so much better as it's raw and skinnier but obviously the braking and some of the acceleration are no where near in comparison. Close enough though acceleration wise but braking.. the '18 S1000RR was on another level, prob 3x which is why I had confidence to go fast.
 

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again... your greeness is apparent. Yes the S1000RR is a nice bike.
Id bet you think the ABS, traction control, and launch control are worth something in regards to safety.
Outside of traction control... the other 2 require real skill and balls. No abs pump can compare.
Anyway... my 12yr old gsxr will accelerate away from an S1000RR like its parked. Like zero to 168 mph in 1320'. Thats a hand actuated clutch and foot shifted.
Comes across the scales at 460lbs wet. Makes nearly 3x the torque of an R6 at 1/2 the rpms...lol.
 

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again... your greeness is apparent. Yes the S1000RR is a nice bike.
Id bet you think the ABS, traction control, and launch control are worth something in regards to safety.
Outside of traction control... the other 2 require real skill and balls. No abs pump can compare.
Anyway... my 12yr old gsxr will accelerate away from an S1000RR like its parked. Like zero to 168 mph in 1320'. Thats a hand actuated clutch and foot shifted.
Comes across the scales at 460lbs wet. Makes nearly 3x the torque of an R6 at 1/2 the rpms...lol.
It was in the dry. The ABS didn't matter. It shouldn't be a contest when riding to see how powerful and raw a bike is compared to one with aids. People crash all the time on the track and street being so macho. I've launched hard at 10k RPM where I had just enough wheel slip. Around 95% throttle 5% clutch or less. I knew I could never replicate it again. So what if we race and I win. So what if you win? The amount of time it takes to actually setup such a race isn't worth it. What is worth it is racing hard to where we can race again. Not where you go down because you thought you were faster and tried to keep up but you couldn't safely.
 

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Are we measuring dicks? Can I get in on this? I’m a Bomb Tech. Your turn!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
cant see any pics.
I was gona put some bad explosive pun in this post but it would have bombed :laugh:

Whats the bomb tech equivalent of a "steering dampener"?? :surprise:
 

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It was in the dry. The ABS didn't matter. It shouldn't be a contest when riding to see how powerful and raw a bike is compared to one with aids. People crash all the time on the track and street being so macho. I've launched hard at 10k RPM where I had just enough wheel slip. Around 95% throttle 5% clutch or less. I knew I could never replicate it again. So what if we race and I win. So what if you win? The amount of time it takes to actually setup such a race isn't worth it. What is worth it is racing hard to where we can race again. Not where you go down because you thought you were faster and tried to keep up but you couldn't safely.
not sure what you are launching?
The key to launching any bike is at peak torque. Im sure there is
a near equivalent in modern electronics... however you still need a good clutch hand. :wink:
 

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The limitation on launching any super sport is going to be the fear of up-ending it. The automated throttle nanny is going to eliminate that, thus allowing a less experienced rider to safely explore the lower end of its potential 0-60 times.
 

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The limitation on launching any super sport is going to be the fear of up-ending it. The automated throttle nanny is going to eliminate that, thus allowing a less experienced rider to safely explore the lower end of its potential 0-60 times.
interesting because I tried this with a couple of people that have "launch" aides. Aint no substitute for proper technique.
And by 60 times I hope you mean 60' and not 60mph. Cause 60 mph is a queer assed Road & Track stat that only non riding pedestrians quote. By the time even the most exotic cars are eclipsing 60 mph... a motorcycle would be accelerating well into triple digits.
 

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not sure what you are launching?
The key to launching any bike is at peak torque. Im sure there is
a near equivalent in modern electronics... however you still need a good clutch hand. :wink:
Dragging the clutch slightly is how to launch hard. I used to be scared of doing it thinking it would instantly loop the bike but it actually loops harder if I don't drag clutch at 10k RPM or higher.
 

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Dragging the clutch slightly is how to launch hard. I used to be scared of doing it thinking it would instantly loop the bike but it actually loops harder if I don't drag clutch at 10k RPM or higher.
There is no dragging of nothing when you do it correctly. If you have lazy springs, worn clutch, or a sticky cable... then you are not applying the full force of peak torque.
There is also a weight transfer component.
If you are launching an R6... 10,000 rpms is kind of low.

Its really simple. You put the bike in gear, bring the RPMs up, situate your weight bias, and let the clutch lever fly. The sudden application of ~45 ft lbs to the drive train will lurch the bike forward you only disengage the clutch if your weight bias transfers incorrectly or the rear tire loses traction. Works the same if the bike makes 50ft lbs, or 65 ft lbs or 100 ft lbs of torque.
Well when you get above 85ft lbs the risk of failure on stock cast components is pretty high. Also if your bike has an extended wheelbase there are other nuances with a hand operated clutch.

Want to see how its done...watch a Supercross heat or main. Those guys are leaving in 2nd or 3rd gear because just the miliseconds it costs to engage a gear change and subsequent drive loss means the difference between 1st and 10th place into turn 1.
 

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There is no dragging of nothing when you do it correctly. If you have lazy springs, worn clutch, or a sticky cable... then you are not applying the full force of peak torque.
There is also a weight transfer component.
If you are launching an R6... 10,000 rpms is kind of low.

Its really simple. You put the bike in gear, bring the RPMs up, situate your weight bias, and let the clutch lever fly. The sudden application of ~45 ft lbs to the drive train will lurch the bike forward you only disengage the clutch if your weight bias transfers incorrectly or the rear tire loses traction. Works the same if the bike makes 50ft lbs, or 65 ft lbs or 100 ft lbs of torque.
Well when you get above 85ft lbs the risk of failure on stock cast components is pretty high. Also if your bike has an extended wheelbase there are other nuances with a hand operated clutch.

Want to see how its done...watch a Supercross heat or main. Those guys are leaving in 2nd or 3rd gear because just the miliseconds it costs to engage a gear change and subsequent drive loss means the difference between 1st and 10th place into turn 1.
Yeah but then you risk damaging the chain and sprockets more. It's like if you go full brake from no brake, you can loop the bike. If you let it drag a bit you risk nothing. I'm on a 520 kit w/ aluminum rear sprocket. I know I should have gotten steel but at the time the price cost more so I've assumed it's better after I've read 'hardened' but then realize it's less integrity than steel.
 
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