Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I noticed some video of someones tires being very hard if not solid. Is it a better idea to store the bike in the house? Having cold tires would be bad but I'm unsure. In a 4-wheeler it's ok but on a motorcycle when you go down we should've put the bike in the house every time in the winter or a heated garage. I'm unsure if the tires get harder if it's hot or if it's cold then never gets soft again. Anyone know?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Ya its better stored inside unless you want your tire cracking due to cold temperatures.
Even with Road 5s?

I assume slicks get harder than DOT but is this true?

I think cracking only occurs when you are putting on the tire or taking off but still though, that means the slicks are harder than DOT.
 

·
Touchdown!
Joined
·
1,252 Posts
You can leave DOTs on the bike during the winter and they'll be fine. Slicks/DOTs have different chemical compounds. To understand, go review some Chemistrry and Mechanics of Materials to understand the behavior of both. Simple physics are always present amongst a bunch of other things.

It's ideal to keep the bike inside for wintery conditions, but some are unable to. Try to avoid leaving the bike in the elements if you can.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
You can leave DOTs on the bike during the winter and they'll be fine. Slicks/DOTs have different chemical compounds. To understand, go review some Chemistrry and Mechanics of Materials to understand the behavior of both. Simple physics are always present amongst a bunch of other things.

It's ideal to keep the bike inside for wintery conditions, but some are unable to. Try to avoid leaving the bike in the elements if you can.

That's what it is. It is not the same chemical compounds as DOT which is probably why they say not for street use because it's not just the lack of wet grooves but the hardness when the temperatures drop too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,931 Posts
As Straight already said research tire compounds. This is the same principle behind buying winter tires for cars. Winter tires have a different glass transition rate which are a little more pliable in colder weather but will be destroyed when running in warmer weather.

Back to bikes, Slicks are designed to be soft and sticky when at operating temps. They are not designed to handle cold weather hence they sometimes crack (become to rigid) in cold weather due to their chemical make up. Your street tires are like all weather tires for cars. They are a happy medium to handle all weather types. But they will still be slightly harder and take much longer to come up to temp in cold weather for obvious reasons. Just because they are round and rubber and all have the same purpose does not mean all tires are the same.

Normal street riding can't hold the temps required for slicks to be effective either, that is why you would never run slicks on the street (aside from the lack of grooves).

So to loop back to the post title and to only echo what has been said...street tires store just fine in winter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
As Straight already said research tire compounds. This is the same principle behind buying winter tires for cars. Winter tires have a different glass transition rate which are a little more pliable in colder weather but will be destroyed when running in warmer weather.

Back to bikes, Slicks are designed to be soft and sticky when at operating temps. They are not designed to handle cold weather hence they sometimes crack (become to rigid) in cold weather due to their chemical make up. Your street tires are like all weather tires for cars. They are a happy medium to handle all weather types. But they will still be slightly harder and take much longer to come up to temp in cold weather for obvious reasons. Just because they are round and rubber and all have the same purpose does not mean all tires are the same.

Normal street riding can't hold the temps required for slicks to be effective either, that is why you would never run slicks on the street (aside from the lack of grooves).

So to loop back to the post title and to only echo what has been said...street tires store just fine in winter.
So people saying you will have more grip in the dry w/ slicks than you could with any DOT but w/o the warmers it's extremely dangerous. Some people just think it's safe due to the lack of wet grooves and that's the only reason but they are so wrong. Saw a vid where someone low sided 45 degrees w/ slicks because they weren't on warmers at all and it scared me. Dunlop KRs. My R6 never lost control like this even with more degrees on the streets. I had to find out why and this it.

There should be a law about slick tires must be on warmers for a certain time at a temperature before they are allowed to head out.

I was close to putting on slicks but cancelled the order. Luckily got refunded. I didn't know anything about this cold weather solid issue until recently. Went Road 5s. I had done things w/ the lack of understanding but got away w/ it. The cost of understanding is after big issues have already spawned or theorized before happening. The idea is to know everything in a situation before encountering the situation. Crashing out at high-speeds is not something like eating food that has salmonella and suffering for a few weeks or losing a lot of money in gambling. It's also not like messing up relationships that you could do nothing about and move on from. It's going through decades of life struggling to go to the bathroom because the lack of limb function etc. The amount of understanding which could be considered free should be taken more seriously than just being the same question weight as asking how they are doing today.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,559 Posts
Are you talking about competition riding or street?

I ride during the Winter and have chosen to stick with the Michelin Pilot Road 4s for their additional siping rather than go for the PR5s. The PR5s like the 4s, should do fine during the Winter. Doesn't matter what you're on, you don't go full tilt to the point of irrecoverability first time out. If you do that, wrecking is just a repeated eventuality. As the roads warm, I gradually increase my lean. As the tires scrub from riding, lean and traction increase.

For various reasons, not all of which are related to the tires it's a bad idea to store a bicycle or motorcycle out in the elements. If you can find a secure place to store it for $50/month for the three months or whatever, that would be ideal. Even then, nature's critters may turn it into a home or worse, begin the process of recycling it. This is aside from the rusting that will occur from sitting outside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Are you talking about competition riding or street?

I ride during the Winter and have chosen to stick with the Michelin Pilot Road 4s for their additional siping rather than go for the PR5s. The PR5s like the 4s, should do fine during the Winter. Doesn't matter what you're on, you don't go full tilt to the point of irrecoverability first time out. If you do that, wrecking is just a repeated eventuality. As the roads warm, I gradually increase my lean. As the tires scrub from riding, lean and traction increase.

For various reasons, not all of which are related to the tires it's a bad idea to store a bicycle or motorcycle out in the elements. If you can find a secure place to store it for $50/month for the three months or whatever, that would be ideal. Even then, nature's critters may turn it into a home or worse, begin the process of recycling it. This is aside from the rusting that will occur from sitting outside.
I would just change the tires ever 2 years. Same as changing the brake pads. Don't wait until they are worn down to change as the grease from riding a lot can ruin pad performance. I bought the bike used and it came with 2CT but I don't think it was changed every 2 years but I could be wrong. They are hard when in a roundabout with the Road 5s you can feel it. It's soft a bit but I'm not sure if it's because it's new or Road 5 compounds.

Also the idea is to change the oil every 6 months instead of doing it by mile or by look.

UV bulbs also need to be changed every 6-12 months because they no longer emit the right UV levels. It looks like it works though. We need to be after the molecular performance and looks can be very deceiving as they look new but aren't, chemically.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,559 Posts
I don't ride in the middle of the lanes so haven't had the experience of greasing up a good set of tires to the point of uselessness. Neither have I had to replace any sets of pads prior to wearing them in.

Re oil, I do miles or appearance, whichever comes first. Since I ride year-round, I'll never have to worry about time.

Maintenance on lighting, my rear had a few LEDs go. The replacement rear had newer LEDs and is much brighter. Went LED for the fronts roughly 2 years ago and haven't looked back.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top