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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was in the process of removing my front wheel last night and upon doing so, the top bolt on the left front caliper was very difficult to loosen. Eventually, I got it out, but not without stripping the threads inside of where the bolt threads into (bottom of fork assembly).

The front wheel or calipers have never been removed before, so I'm wondering why this happened? Anybody have any idea on what I can do to prevent it from occuring again in the future? I don't see how this situation was avoidable seeing as I had never even touched the bolt before, therefore it wasn't overtightened, at least by me.

I plan on doing a helicoil insert. Anyone else have this happen to them and can tell me what size tap and drill I would need. Never messed with helicoil before so this is all new to me. Did some research and watched some vids of helicoil installation on youtube to give me a better idea on whats involved. Threre are no markings on the bolt that give diameter, thread pitch and whatever other info is needed when selecting the right tap and drill.

Hopefully, someone here has some experience with this and can chime in and help an aspiring DIYer. Thanks in advance!
 

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Sounds like however put the bolt in the last time something was replaced cross threaded it to the point of "holy shit" torquing it down. Rethreading it should take care of it. I don't know the size but it really doesn't matter as everything you need should come in a kit. Just get a little bigger than what the size is, than you'll just have to use that same size bolt. That's just my .02
 

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May have been cross threaded from the factory. Happens sometimes. DO NOT USE A HELICOIL. I would try and rethread the bolt and hole first and see how that goes. If the bolt hole looks like it is missing too many threads or too many get pulled out while rethreading use a Time-sert insert. I believe they are stronger than factory threads. Just takes a little work. Helicoils are garbage compared to these. I use them at work and they are recommended by Honda of America. I actually used one for a vehicles caliper bracket once. Imagine that.

http://www.timesert.com/

May need to measure the bolt if you don't know the size or thread pitch.
 

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Mechanic...Technician...Potato Potato...lol

Uhm yeah...GM...Osh Kosh... :secret
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
May have been cross threaded from the factory. Happens sometimes. DO NOT USE A HELICOIL. I would try and rethread the bolt and hole first and see how that goes. If the bolt hole looks like it is missing too many threads or too many get pulled out while rethreading use a Time-sert insert. I believe they are stronger than factory threads. Just takes a little work. Helicoils are garbage compared to these. I use them at work and they are recommended by Honda of America. I actually used one for a vehicles caliper bracket once. Imagine that.

http://www.timesert.com/

May need to measure the bolt if you don't know the size or thread pitch.

I would try the timeserts over the helicoil, but I'm assuming I can't go to any local store and pick this up like I can with helicoil. Was planning on hitting up Sears tomorrow to see if they carry helicoil there, unless you know of someplace locally that carries timeserts.

Also, what size tool do i need to remove the front axle bolt?
 

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I would try the timeserts over the helicoil, but I'm assuming I can't go to any local store and pick this up like I can with helicoil. Was planning on hitting up Sears tomorrow to see if they carry helicoil there, unless you know of someplace locally that carries timeserts.

Also, what size tool do i need to remove the front axle bolt?
http://www.timesert.com/html/distributor.html

Looks like the best bet would be to contact them directly or find a local Wurth dealer. Wurth likes to mark stuff up. Awesome products though. On my 08 R6v the pinch bolts are 6mm Hex and the axle bolt is a 22mm.
 

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Ohhhh fun. You couldn't pay me enough to work on American stuff all day. Actually, you could. It's the german cars i despise. I guess it's all in what you get used to.
Army vehicles :thumbdown
 

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Especially with no lack of morons operating the vehicles. Would much rather be working in the private sector though.
 

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Haha. I just got to the west coast 2 years ago, I can't leave it already! Still have 4 years left in the army anyways. After that I'm thinking of going to a couple schools, maybe hitting up a collision repair school, I'm not too sure yet. Just doing a bunch of random automotive stuffs.
 

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Industrial setting is more fun(Journeymen Millwright) Playing with Hi pressure steam, hydraulics, pneumatics, and unskilled factory workers is a hoot:D
 

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Haha. I just got to the west coast 2 years ago, I can't leave it already! Still have 4 years left in the army anyways. After that I'm thinking of going to a couple schools, maybe hitting up a collision repair school, I'm not too sure yet. Just doing a bunch of random automotive stuffs.
I can't do paint or body work very well. i am getting better, but I have very short patience for it. And that is exactly what you need for good paint work...patience. Good money in it though.
 

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Yeah I have no patience, well I mean, when it's something that I like doing I have a little bit of patience. What I wanted to do was mechanical and collision repair. That'd be the ultimate. :yes
 

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I can't do paint or body work very well. i am getting better, but I have very short patience for it. And that is exactly what you need for good paint work...patience. Good money in it though.
whoever told you that is a liar. lol
most autobody techs make $12-14/hr after a bunch of years in the business.
most of them start out at places like macco and carstar for $10/hr.

not even worth going to school for.

just ask the guys on http://www.autobody101.com/forums/

if you do it for yourself then you can make some money. I know a guy that owns his own body shop. and pays the guy $15/hr that does 95% of the work.
(jack detzel's autobody)
 
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