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Discussion Starter #1
I'll be attempting to sync my throttle body for first time. Previous owner didn't know shit about bikes and how to take care of them correctly. My bike has about 20k on it and I'd like to check the throttle body. I read it should've been done a while ago and checked.
Saw a video on a 2014 R6 and cylinder 3 was mentioned about being set correctly by factory settings and not to adjust it. Adjust 1,2 and 4 to 3's level.
Making my own manometer and wanted to check if that's true?? I have an 08 R6.
Thanks
 

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Checked mine a few of years go with more than double the recommended mileage and really had nothing to do.


Check the gauges against one-another for precision. One gauge may read different from the others. Gauge may even fail after you start using it.

These engines have a lot of valve overlap. So the gauges read with a TON of oscillation. Getting a stable enough reading on the gauges can be tricky. There must be an air valve between the gauge and engine on each vac line. Have to set the valve so that it dampens the oscillation while not completely closing it off.
 

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20k+ miles, ECU flash, blah, blah, blah...
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Discussion Starter #3
Checked mine a few of years go with more than double the recommended mileage and really had nothing to do.

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Check the gauges against one-another for precision. One gauge may read different from the others. Gauge may even fail after you start using it.

These engines have a lot of valve overlap. So the gauges read with a TON of oscillation. Getting a stable enough reading on the gauges can be tricky. There must be an air valve between the gauge and engine on each vac line. Have to set the valve so that it dampens the oscillation while not completely closing it off.
Ok thanks. What fluid can I use for my manometer??
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've read water, alcohol or mercury. Seen videos of ppl using trani oil or oil but wanted to make sure.
 

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Sheeze definitely not mercury LoL. May as well use a nuclear powered device to measure radon levels on a basement LoL.

One problem I read about was the liquid getting sucked out of a tube(s). So the heavier oil might work better but might be a little harder to read in the tube.

Most forms of alcohol evaporate rapidly and in the event it got sucked in, would be damaging to any lubrication it touches.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Haha. Ya that's what worries me. I'ma go with water with coloring dye. What's odd is cylinder 1's adjustment screw is white. Idk if it's the 08+ models but I've read and seen cylinder 3 is white to base 1,2, and 4 off of 3.
 

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They're flip'n hard to see and get to, but don't recall anything unusual about mine. They were all same brass color and all turned identical to one-another. 2008 R6S (second generation not third)
 

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I just tried it and it sucked up the water. There are four vacuum hoses and then there are four test brass connectors with little black rubber nipples over it I hooked it up to them and left the hose is connected. Any idea why it would suck up the water?
 

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Not sure. May need sssuuupppeeerrr lllooonnngggg lines and put individual close-off valves on each of the four lines. Once the bike is started and idling stable, then open all four simultaneously.

The way it's setup I believe vacuum has to be even-ish for it to even work at all. If the vacuum is different-enough at any point, it's going to get sucked in.

Besides reusability with other vehicles, that's one of the reasons I went with the four individual gauges. With the "fake" vac lines that the factory connected, I noticed they connected 1 to 3 and 2 to 4. Is the manometer supposed to be setup similarly or do they really have all four connected?

EDIT: Probably all four.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Do u think I can close off 3 on the manometer and test each cylinder??
Ya there's one tube connecting 1,2,3 and 4. Underneath to the left there's a small rubber nipple covering hose connectors. I took nipples off and connected manometer to them and kept the hose lines on 1,2,3 and 4.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I can't move the screw for cylinder 1(painted white)
Cylinder 2,3 and 4 are a half turn out from screw all the way in. For some reason no matter what I adjust the 4th cylinder's tube slowly sucks up the water. Idk why or how this is happening. I tried multiple combinations between cylinder 2,3 and 4. No matter what the 4th cylinder continues to suck up water slowly. If I rev it, 4th cylinders water goes down but shoots right up when bike goes back to idle.
Any ideas?? It's driving me nuts!
 
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