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Kneedragger
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Discussion Starter #1
I need help... dropping my bike from side to side (chicanes) my bike feels very stiff and feels like it takes me a long time to to switch directions. I've used the same technique for a long time, but for some reason it feels like this lately. Is this a suspension setting? Or am I just getting older?:wtf
 

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1,940 Posts
flat spot tires? (lot of highway miles?)

if no, how much of the fork is showing above the triple? ideal setting is between 4-5.5mm for that gen
 

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Kneedragger
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
flat spot tires? (lot of highway miles?)

if no, how much of the fork is showing above the triple? ideal setting is between 4-5.5mm for that gen
I didn't think of the measurement of the fork on the triple, I will check that as soon as I get home. Thanks for the tip.
 

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My R6 eat tires for lunch
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855 Posts
So after getting my forks done at a shop. they put it back on a lil high. i remember seeing more of the forks, now they are at the very top,(barely anything showing,kinda like the r1) Now i really don't notice a difference. it seems to still handle fine so i'll just leave it be. But i have a few questions, what would Raising the height gain? or lose? If the front suspension has been tamper with, should i do something to the back also?
 

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crashing aint so bad
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2,271 Posts
When you raise the front of the bike, you get a more stable machine with slower turning ability. When you lower the front of the bike you get less stability, but a quicker turning ability. It is said that for a normal rider to notice a difference you wold have to move it up or down by about 4-5 mm. Which I why you may not have noticed anything. A pro can realize the difference of a 1mm movement. In your case it is set up to the desired setting. I would leave it there.
 

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My R6 eat tires for lunch
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855 Posts
When you raise the front of the bike, you get a more stable machine with slower turning ability. When you lower the front of the bike you get less stability, but a quicker turning ability. It is said that for a normal rider to notice a difference you wold have to move it up or down by about 4-5 mm. Which I why you may not have noticed anything. A pro can realize the difference of a 1mm movement. In your case it is set up to the desired setting. I would leave it there.
with it being higher, Its more stability in the lean? or a stand up?
 

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crashing aint so bad
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2,271 Posts
The bike in general, is more stable, or less stable. It has other implications that may not be a problem for most. Raising the front of the bike also lengthens it's wheel base ( minimally ) and this can change the way the bike reacts during turn in or exit ( vice versa as well; lowering will shorten the wheelbase. ). A high nosed bike has a good exit on turns, but is slow to turn. A low nosed bike will turn quickly and fall in, but the turns finish will be more challenging. One gets you in faster and the other has a better exit.
 

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30,470 Posts
flat spot tires? (lot of highway miles?)

if no, how much of the fork is showing above the triple? ideal setting is between 4-5.5mm for that gen
I didn't think of the measurement of the fork on the triple, I will check that as soon as I get home. Thanks for the tip.
the 06/07 shouldn't have ANY tube showing above the triple - the 08+ have about that much sticking up, but not the 06/07. here's a pic of a correct height for the 06/07. just the cap shows, not the tube itself.

 

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My R6 eat tires for lunch
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855 Posts
The bike in general, is more stable, or less stable. It has other implications that may not be a problem for most. Raising the front of the bike also lengthens it's wheel base ( minimally ) and this can change the way the bike reacts during turn in or exit ( vice versa as well; lowering will shorten the wheelbase. ). A high nosed bike has a good exit on turns, but is slow to turn. A low nosed bike will turn quickly and fall in, but the turns finish will be more challenging. One gets you in faster and the other has a better exit.
:cheers

the 06/07 shouldn't have ANY tube showing above the triple - the 08+ have about that much sticking up, but not the 06/07. here's a pic of a correct height for the 06/07. just the cap shows, not the tube itself.
Dang so mines on right.
 

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My R6 eat tires for lunch
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855 Posts
You know how you can turn those "Clicks" on top of the forks? what do yall have it on? I was messing around before i did the fork change, and it was like 17 clicks, After the fork change i got it back and it was like at 1 or something. I felt every bump on the road, that got so damn annoying i changed it back to 17 clicks, So im guessing the higher the number the softer it is.

So everyone is trying to find their own balance between hard or soft? and if you track only you want it on hard? soft is just for the streets or soft has a benefit on the track too?
 

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www.1seven1.com
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One other thing to check I haven't seen mentioned is the rear shock .... if the rear is worn or overly soft, the front is extended more causing slower turn-in.

Also, front tire brand and profile can affect turn-in significantly. Technique does as well ... if you trailbrake into a turn, you're keeping your front forks compressed and changing your bike geometry inducing better turn-in.

It can be a bunch of things. Think of it this way, when you gas it exiting a corner, your forks extend, the rear squats and you tend to run wide. Sounds like you may have the same physical dynamics going on for corner entry.

Make sense?
 
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