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Keep st it bro. I had same problem with mine running rich it’s time and tediousness and willingness which you seem to have a lot of!! My suggestion go back to stock jets and most definitely stock air filter!! Or get a Ivan’s jet kit!!! I’m telling you tho once you do get it right it’s all worth it!!! Night and day difference!!!! Also I jus did the gen 2 swap on mine and if you 2nd starts to slip let me know I’ve a whole trans I’ll let go for cheap. Well I’ll have a whole other motor in like 2 weeks!!! Keep it up man!!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Good work so far, that R6 is finally getting the love it deserves.
Thanks! I'm hoping to have it up and running before the end of the season!

Keep st it bro. I had same problem with mine running rich it’s time and tediousness and willingness which you seem to have a lot of!! My suggestion go back to stock jets and most definitely stock air filter!! Or get a Ivan’s jet kit!!! I’m telling you tho once you do get it right it’s all worth it!!! Night and day difference!!!! Also I jus did the gen 2 swap on mine and if you 2nd starts to slip let me know I’ve a whole trans I’ll let go for cheap. Well I’ll have a whole other motor in like 2 weeks!!! Keep it up man!!
Thank you! That makes sense to me, I'll try the stock jets in it. Thanks for the offer, I'll keep that in mind!



Need to go and finish the valve measurements when I have a spare moment.
And I ordered an eBay oil cap, it fits.. kinda.
 

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Fill it with wires!
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Discussion Starter #23
I gave up on the valve adjustment after buying an angle feeler gauge that didn't have small enough tabs for this application, and then buying another regular gauge and trying to bend the tabs manually to make an angle gauge and then one of them breaking off under a cam and having to fish it back out...

I checked that the smallest in-spec tab would fit under each cam, and called it "Good enough for now" Though some of the valves are definitely getting mighty close to the spec limit, so this will need to be revisited.

Then I put the stock jets and needles back in the carbs. I don't have a stock air filter to put on, but I figured that I wanted to at least see how the bike responded to having the stock jets with the hi-flow filter and exhaust.

It ran pretty well! I would say the engine responded better than it had with the dynojet jets in it, though it did have some (lean?) lag on returning to idle and still bogs down in midrange.

I'm not really sure what my next steps are. The Dynojet kit came with intermediate jets that I haven't tried yet, so I may give those a go. Otherwise I still need to check the float level in each carb, and learn how to tune the idle mixture.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Turns out the battery was really low yesterday, and I know that can cause issues on my other bike. So I went back out this morning with a fully charged battery. Bike behaves about the same.

I also noticed (finally) that there's smoke coming from under the gas tank, and when I parked the bike discovered that the crankcase ventilation line was missing. Put that back in place, hopefully no more smoke!

Next I adjusted the throttle position sensor, and then checked the float fuel height.

Everything looks good. Started the bike up, it idled, and then I blipped the throttle and it just stayed there, not returning to idle. So I shut it down and am now trying to troubleshoot that symptom.
 

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Fill it with wires!
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Discussion Starter #25

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If you take out your carbs again soon, could you measure the mixture screw o-rings for me? I need to order new ones but I don't want to order the pilot screw sets just to get the o-ring they don't sell individually. I'd like to order them and have them before I pull the carbs for the xxtenth time. Thanks
 

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Fill it with wires!
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Discussion Starter #28
If you take out your carbs again soon, could you measure the mixture screw o-rings for me? I need to order new ones but I don't want to order the pilot screw sets just to get the o-ring they don't sell individually. I'd like to order them and have them before I pull the carbs for the xxtenth time. Thanks
I didn't have the screws out today, but next time I have the carbs off I'll measure them! Although I'm pretty sure there are variety packs you can get that'll cover what you need.

Also if you need any pictures of stuff on the bike and lots of other good info on the first gens check out chiefsmokedog's 02 thread here.
https://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111922

It's a lot to read but it's got tons of pictures and information that's worth the time.

Also look through these pages for carb settings and info.
https://www.r6-forum.com/forums/58-exhaust-fuel-delivery/120765-99-02-guys-post-your-carb-settings-mods-elevation.html
Thanks for the info!

That carb thread really got me thinking about this bike's setup. I could go back to OEM everything for a few hundred dollars... Or I could try tuning it as is, which sounds like a lot of invested time from that thread. I haven't made up my mind, so I'll keep tinkering until I decide it's worth the money to go back.

Since this is going to be trial and error, I need to start being thorough and documenting the carb settings.

So I pulled the carbs, cleaned all of the jets again, and set a base tune:
* Main Jet: Dynojet DJ142 on outter, and DJ140 on inner
* Pilot Screw: 2.5 turns out
* Needle: Dynojet needle, 4 rungs down

I also did an initial sync by getting all of the butterfly valves to just barely grab a piece of paper being slid past them. They were already pretty close.

Put the bike back together. It started, warmed up to 120F, and then bogged down and died and I couldn't get it to start and stay running again.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Reading the carb page on Factory Pro, it looks like the bike is running too rich, and I should try a half-turn in on the pilot screws (so from 2.5 to 2 turns out).

Also I forgot to mention: while the carbs were off the bike yesterday I took each engine-to-carb boot off and cleaned it, then re-seated it on the engine with some Gaska-cinch glue to try and prevent any leaks between the boot and intake manifold. The boots had some cracks in the rubber, but it didn't go all the way through, so I'm leaving them as-is.
 

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Fill it with wires!
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Discussion Starter #30
Went back out this morning and tried turning in the screws 1/4th turn. Didn't work well, I need to find a small screwdriver that lets me adjust those screws without pulling the carbs...

Bike started up, idled super high, and when I blipped the throttle wouldn't come back down so I cut it off and then had to leave for work.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Bought a hiflofiltro foam air filter to replace the K&N with. It should be here by next weekend.

I'm going to be pretty upset if I bought that expensive K&N for nothing. That's just the way it goes sometimes, I should have read up more beforehand.
 

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Drop a gear and DISAPPEAR
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There a idle screw with s knob on it on the carbs so you can adjust your idle at a stop light if needed. Was that alll the screwed in???
 

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Discussion Starter #33
There a idle screw with s knob on it on the carbs so you can adjust your idle at a stop light if needed. Was that alll the screwed in???
It wasn't, I probably had it actually adjusted further out than it should be to combat how lean the bike was running.
 

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I didn't have the screws out today, but next time I have the carbs off I'll measure them! Although I'm pretty sure there are variety packs you can get that'll cover what you need.
You would think so but the o-rings in those are too thick from the ones I've seen. I went ahead and ordered 2 pilot screw sets from Partzilla. Thanks anyway.

I saw a special screwdriver for adjusting mixture screws but it was expensive and I don't know if it even works in the tiny space on our R6s.

You have the service manual pdf right?
https://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-maintenance-technical/39254-r6-service-maintenance-repair-manual.html
 

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Discussion Starter #35
You would think so but the o-rings in those are too thick from the ones I've seen. I went ahead and ordered 2 pilot screw sets from Partzilla. Thanks anyway.

I saw a special screwdriver for adjusting mixture screws but it was expensive and I don't know if it even works in the tiny space on our R6s.

You have the service manual pdf right?
https://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-maintenance-technical/39254-r6-service-maintenance-repair-manual.html
Ah, that makes sense. Sorry I didn't get to it in time.

I think I can scrounge something up, I just need to cut a regular screwdriver down to be short enough to get under the carbs.

I do have the manual, thanks!
 

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For what it's worth...
Here's an article on that motion pro driver.
https://www.cycleworld.com/2012/07/10/motion-pro-90-degree-hex-driver-tool-time/

"Naturally, I haven’t tried this tool in every possible application, and I’m sure there are some carb screws that it won’t reach. I found it suitable for adjusting the carbs on a Yamaha YZF600R and an older R1, as well as a Honda 599. It also got the job done on our Project Re-Cycle FZ1, though not as easily as it did on some of the other bikes."

So maybe it will work, huh?

Here's where to get it, you must have browsed right past it. lol
https://www.bikebandit.com/manuals-tools/motorcycle-tools/motorcycle-hand-tools/motion-pro-90-degree-1-4-hex-driver/p/24831

They've also got this one for $25 bucks! It may work and it may not.
https://www.bikebandit.com/manuals-tools/motorcycle-tools/motorcycle-hand-tools/motion-pro-pilot-screw-adjusting-tool/p/1780

Bike bandit has a shit ton of tools! I'm browsing through them like a kid looking through the toy section of the Sear's Christmas catalog!
 

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Fill it with wires!
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Discussion Starter #37
For what it's worth...
Here's an article on that motion pro driver.
https://www.cycleworld.com/2012/07/10/motion-pro-90-degree-hex-driver-tool-time/

"Naturally, I haven’t tried this tool in every possible application, and I’m sure there are some carb screws that it won’t reach. I found it suitable for adjusting the carbs on a Yamaha YZF600R and an older R1, as well as a Honda 599. It also got the job done on our Project Re-Cycle FZ1, though not as easily as it did on some of the other bikes."

So maybe it will work, huh?

Here's where to get it, you must have browsed right past it. lol
https://www.bikebandit.com/manuals-tools/motorcycle-tools/motorcycle-hand-tools/motion-pro-90-degree-1-4-hex-driver/p/24831

They've also got this one for $25 bucks! It may work and it may not.
https://www.bikebandit.com/manuals-tools/motorcycle-tools/motorcycle-hand-tools/motion-pro-pilot-screw-adjusting-tool/p/1780

Bike bandit has a shit ton of tools! I'm browsing through them like a kid looking through the toy section of the Sear's Christmas catalog!
I actually didn't know BikeBandit had tools.. That's awesome!

Yeah, those things are expensive, but now that I see it has a way to measure fractions of a turn... That does seem really useful.

Thank you for the info!
 

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FYI
I put a Factory Pro Jet kit in my bike (replaced the Dynojet kit previously installed) and later replaced the #38 pilot jets with #40's and that made a noticeable difference. I have a full aftermarket exhaust and stock air filter. I'd like to try stock needles shimmed like a lot of people say is the best setup as far as the needles go but I don't have the original needles since they were replaced before I acquired the bike.

We'll get your bike up and running smoothly long before the end of the season! Let me know if you have any questions as I'll likely be pulling my carbs this weekend or next week sometime, ugh! Those f'n intake boot clamps screws! I noticed in the picture you posted of your engine with the one intake boot off that your screws are backward from mine. Are they easier to get at coming in from above the carbs coming in from the front of the bike? I suppose you wouldn't know, if that's how they came on your bike. I think the stock setup has the hex screw head pointed towards the rear of the bike which is a huge PITA! I use a modified hex key about 6" long and most of the short part cut off so I have some grip to turn but doesn't hit the engine when I spin it.

Even with a short screwdriver you'll still have to remove the tank and airbox to adjust the mixture screws, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Hmm, yeah I definitely need to play around with the main jets. I wish I had a decent base setting to work off of though.

Thanks man, I'll let you know if I have any questions! I probably will, I'm pretty lost with this stuff haha.

Yeah, with the carb boot clamps like mine I can get an allen key to them without /too/ much hassle. That whole part is just a PITA though, I think regardless of the direction they go in. Now that I've done it a few times it's going a little faster.

I have a flathead "bit" that goes in a multi-screwdriver and I've tried using it without pulling the carbs, but it's just too inaccurate, so I'm going to have to start unseating the carbs to adjust.

Speaking of which, I just went out and put the Hiflofiltro air filter on the bike, and reset the pilot screws to 2 turns out. Started but won't stay running, just goes "Blub blub BLUB blub BLUB" and quits if I stop cracking the throttle... I'm considering going back to the stock main jets, even though the dynojet kit instructions say to use the jets I have if there's a hi-flow exhaust installed, which there is (I think).
 

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Discussion Starter #40
OK, I put the stock main jets back on the carb (148 on inner, 152 on outer). And stock needles (N7SA on inner, N7SB on outer) with a washer shim on each since I'm still worried the exhaust will make the bike too lean.

Put the carbs back on, tightened the boots, installed the air filter.

Bike will start and idle roughly. I let it get up to ~120F. Blipping the throttle feels like the engine is too rich, it lags and threatens to die. But if I hold the throttle open the engine works up and then revs higher than it should and stays there after I let go (as though it's too lean) and then I hit the killswitch.
 
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