Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys

I am throwing my carbs back on. I just got around to the throttle linkages. I took a picture before I took them off for reference, and re-set them back to where they were.

It now seems like the throttle doesn't want to return to the idle position, like there is a slight bind. Which cable should I adjust to correct this? Thanks
 

·
Parts Pimp
Joined
·
26,470 Posts
Ugh. I hate that. I have spent countless hours working on my bike to get the throttle to return quickly. I cut my grip off this week, and now it snaps right back.

In your case, if you twisted the cables at all, like have them crisscrossing, that could be it. Otherwise, if the return cable, (not the one that pulls when you give gas, the other one) is not adjusted right it won't return well.

Really, you just gotta play with the adjustments bro. Best of luck to you. I know how frustrating this is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I played with it a bit last night and its a little better, but they could be crossed. If you go from wide open and completely let off, they stay at about 30% throttle for 3 seconds or so, they it returns to idle. I assume this is only a slight bind so im sure I can get it. I already tightened the clamps on the base of the carbs so it will be a little bit tighter of a fit to adjust it now.
 

·
Parts Pimp
Joined
·
26,470 Posts
Thanks. I played with it a bit last night and its a little better, but they could be crossed. If you go from wide open and completely let off, they stay at about 30% throttle for 3 seconds or so, they it returns to idle. I assume this is only a slight bind so im sure I can get it. I already tightened the clamps on the base of the carbs so it will be a little bit tighter of a fit to adjust it now.
Yeah man, keep playing with it. Try and lube the cables too. It helped quite a bit on mine. DEfinitely make sure the grip isn't jamming against the killswitch area too..

And keep in mind that if the cables are binding now with the bars straight, they will more than likely bind up way worse when the bars are turned..
 

·
Sex and Bikes Go Together
Joined
·
1,222 Posts
Yeah man, keep playing with it. Try and lube the cables too. It helped quite a bit on mine. DEfinitely make sure the grip isn't jamming against the killswitch area too..

And keep in mind that if the cables are binding now with the bars straight, they will more than likely bind up way worse when the bars are turned..
That sounds horrible haha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ugh,

I solved the binding problem relatively easily. Just adjusted it the opposite way I had been going lol.

So I got everything back together. The bike runs on 4 now when its cold (it ran on 3 previously when cold), but now it sounds like crap above 8000. Ugh, all I did was clean it out and change the plugs. Do I really need to sync it?
 

·
Parts Pimp
Joined
·
26,470 Posts
Ugh,

I solved the binding problem relatively easily. Just adjusted it the opposite way I had been going lol.

So I got everything back together. The bike runs on 4 now when its cold (it ran on 3 previously when cold), but now it sounds like crap above 8000. Ugh, all I did was clean it out and change the plugs. Do I really need to sync it?
I doubt it needs to be syncld. If you didn't touch the sync screws you should b fone. Are you in neutral when it breaks up over 8k? If so try riding it. Mine doesn't like to be revved up in neutral, but is fine on the gas in gear. The slides flutter like whoah when revvin in neutral.

If the bike is breaking up at 8k in gear, you proly need to adjust the slide needles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I also put a light mist of oil on the air filter. Im going to go yank it out and see if thats better. I was always able to rev it up in neutral, so I am concerned. I have not taken it for a test ride yet because I don't want to put everything back together till its perfect. Ill be back in about 10 with a update.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok update.

I yanked the carbs back off and re-tightened them since they seemed loose. I then noticed the number 2 diaphragm had some resistance so I took that out, re-seated the spring, and that was better. So anyway I put it back together.

It runs great down low, kinda weird from from 5-8k, then it runs like a beast from 8-15k. I took the bike out on the street and it did a massive power wheelie from 9 grand in first, through the shift and set back down about a second or two after that.

So..... Just a mid-range issue now...
 

·
Parts Pimp
Joined
·
26,470 Posts
Ok update.

I yanked the carbs back off and re-tightened them since they seemed loose. I then noticed the number 2 diaphragm had some resistance so I took that out, re-seated the spring, and that was better. So anyway I put it back together.

It runs great down low, kinda weird from from 5-8k, then it runs like a beast from 8-15k. I took the bike out on the street and it did a massive power wheelie from 9 grand in first, through the shift and set back down about a second or two after that.

So..... Just a mid-range issue now...
1st gen power wheelies FTW!

What do you have the slide needles set at? Or are they OEM needles? 5-8k is when you get the slides lifting. If the needles aren't adjusted right, you'll get breaking up in that range.. If you have exhausted all your needle settings and it still is rough between 5&8k, you should probably sync the carbs. But I was able to tune out almost ALL of the hesitation, and breaking up by moving the needle clips.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top