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2008 r6
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My rear wheel is hard to turn. Sounds like brake pads are preventing tire to spin freely. I loosened the axle nut and spins a little better. I have to really force tire to get 1 full rotation. The dust seal doesnt move on right side of wheel. It moves a little when I loosen axel nut. When axel nut is to spec the dust seal only turns when I slowly turn the tire.
I believe I'm the 3rd owner and pretty sure front and rear pads havent been changed. Any chance the pads or rotor are to old? Or does it even matter?? My chain isnt to tight. Axel misaligned? I use motion pro tool to align rear tire. The rear caliper is in the groves correctly.
Any ideas or suggestions?? Thanks
 

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I have read that it has a very loose chain.

A symptom of difficult rotation may be the chain, on one hand, it may lose tension but on the other, it may have a lot of tension.

Symptom that some links in the chain are wrong.

Have you found sections of the chain more tensioned than others?

I doubt that some old pads can cause that problem, in any case it would be the piston of the brake caliper that does not return its position and the wheel is braked.

As are the alignment marks on the swingarm, the axle I mean.

Check your chain does not have sides that are tighter than others, turn the wheel when it is difficult to turn it check the chain tension by moving it up and down.

If that is okay, I would remove the brake caliper, to know if the wheel is braking, if you have difficulty in removing the caliper, empty the circuit.

I'd check that first before looking for other troublesome components.

Regards.
 

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2008 r6
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have read that it has a very loose chain.

A symptom of difficult rotation may be the chain, on one hand, it may lose tension but on the other, it may have a lot of tension.

Symptom that some links in the chain are wrong.

Have you found sections of the chain more tensioned than others?

I doubt that some old pads can cause that problem, in any case it would be the piston of the brake caliper that does not return its position and the wheel is braked.

As are the alignment marks on the swingarm, the axle I mean.

Check your chain does not have sides that are tighter than others, turn the wheel when it is difficult to turn it check the chain tension by moving it up and down.

If that is okay, I would remove the brake caliper, to know if the wheel is braking, if you have difficulty in removing the caliper, empty the circuit.

I'd check that first before looking for other troublesome components.

Regards.
I just put a new chain on last week and it's still being broken in. It's on the lose side of the chain slack spec. To be safe I'll remove the chain and see how it spins.
I was thinking the same thing about the calipers piston. Not sure how to check if they're working correctly but I'll do some research. Thank u for the input
 

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Remove the caliper. No change?
Remove the chain. No change?
If putting the axle nuts to spec causes the issue, need to remove the rear wheel and do an inspection of the swing-arm and axle/wheel components.
If it's that tight, then riding around for awhile should make something very hot.
Using an infrared thermometer might lend some clues.
(be nice to have a thermal image viewer - even the cheapies are expensive LoL - Amazon.com : usb thermal imaging camera)
 

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2008 r6
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Remove the caliper. No change?
Remove the chain. No change?
If putting the axle nuts to spec causes the issue, need to remove the rear wheel and do an inspection of the swing-arm and axle/wheel components.
If it's that tight, then riding around for awhile should make something very hot.
Using an infrared thermometer might lend some clues.
(be nice to have a thermal image viewer - even the cheapies are expensive LoL - Amazon.com : usb thermal imaging camera)
I finally was able to ride after weeks of rain. When I got back the rear was moving alot easier. My basement/garage is much cooler and damp. Idk if that had anything to do with it. I also was using my rear brakes alot more on that ride to grind down the pads.
I'm removing the tire, caliper and chain today to try to narrow it down. I'll be in touch.
Thank u both and ride safe if rain ever let's up
 

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I finally was able to ride after weeks of rain. When I got back the rear was moving alot easier. My basement/garage is much cooler and damp. Idk if that had anything to do with it. I also was using my rear brakes alot more on that ride to grind down the pads.
I'm removing the tire, caliper and chain today to try to narrow it down. I'll be in touch.
Thank u both and ride safe if rain ever let's up
Now that I have commented on it, I remember that my front brake pads when the environment was very humid or directly they got wet.

The next day the wheel was partially braked, I say that because the metal material of the brake pads rusted and was "stuck" to the brake discs, thus obtaining resistance when moving the bike, and a disengagement sound when move the bike.

But from that to the wheel being braked there is an abyss.

Regards.
 

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I also had this problem briefly and finally found that the front mounting bolt on the rear caliper wasn't all the way tightened and it was causing the whole caliper to sit kiddy wompas on the rotor and was dragging. Btw there should be a washer in between your lug and chain tension block it's pretty hard to over tighten the lug as the spec torque is pretty tight as is. I used my neighbors torque impact and it barely got it to spec lol.
 

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On my 2nd-Gen, the rear caliper has a carrier, upon which it slides. That carrier is fairly soft. The caliper can dig into it, which can limit its ability to laterally self-adjust.

It's part # 10 in the diagram below.

377443
 

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It is most likely your rear brake or wheel bearings.
Remove the caliper and see if it moves freely. If it doesn't then the brake is fine.
Remove wheel and check the bearings. You can turn them with your finger to see if there is a problem They should turn smooth and consistent all the way around without any catches or lag.
If both of the rear brake and bearings are good then most likely your rear assembly is incorrect. Get a diagram and make sure everything is installed in the correct order.
Rear axle could be bent, but it is not a common issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the input everyone.
I've been using my rear brakes alot to grind down the pads and now its moving much better. If it happens again I'll try removing caliper, chain and check bearings. Safe riding
 
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