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2003 yzf r6
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have been searching but can't find what I am looking for. I have an 03 r6 and have a thread started about rebuilding a stunted out 03 so replies can be posted there as well.

My question is do I need the exact yamaha tools for the starter flywheel dissesembly or can I get away with different tools or make tools, I would like the lowest possibility of wrecking things in the process but want to do the work myself. I have the manual and they suggest 3 specific tools from yamaha for the entire dissesembly, I live in a small town with 1 auto parts store that rarely has parts or tools for that matter for motorcycles. If it is the only way to do the dissesembly how much am I going to be in the hole if I can even get them?
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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What are the yami part numbers for the tools?
 

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2003 yzf r6
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96 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
90890-0113500 that's the splitter or separator I believe 90890-01362-00 is the flywheel puller and a sheave puller can't get a part #.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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The first is a spltter or crankshaft puller used on 2 strokes.. the crank has the case halves pressed on the journals. That won't pull a pressed on flywheel very well. Many brands of universal case splitters are made.

The second I have not been able to find a picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The first is a spltter or crankshaft puller used on 2 strokes.. the crank has the case halves pressed on the journals. That won't pull a pressed on flywheel very well. Many brands of universal case splitters are made.

The second I have not been able to find a picture.
Yeah I found one and it was listed for like 330 which I feel like is a Bogas ass price but I can't find anything else on it.
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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If you’re just splitting the crank case, I don’t think you need a flywheel puller fr this bike.
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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Are you servicing the flywheel? Or are you splitting the cases? The flywheel and starter clutch are mounted to the end of the crank. No need to take them off the crank if you are not replacing either of them....
 

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2003 yzf r6
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Are you servicing the flywheel? Or are you splitting the cases? The flywheel and starter clutch are mounted to the end of the crank. No need to take them off the crank if you are not replacing either of them....
Fair enough that's what I decided, I just wanted to clean everything up and make sure it's to spec during the rebuild. If I am redoing the timing am I going to have to worry about it?
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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Fair enough that's what I decided, I just wanted to clean everything up and make sure it's to spec during the rebuild. If I am redoing the timing am I going to have to worry about it?
the cam chain is on the other end, so no.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I
the cam chain is on the other end, so no.
I am aware I just didn't know if the other end needed to be opened up as well when doing that. Thanks for the heads up, and thankfully everything in the left side crank case looks brand new so just need a new gasket and I'm good to go.
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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Maybe we are misunderstanding something. What are you trying to do? When you say splitting the crankcase, that means accessing the transmission and crankshaft bearings. If you are just talking about the cover for the stator, that’s only about 10% of the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Maybe we are misunderstanding something. What are you trying to do? When you say splitting the crankcase, that means accessing the transmission and crankshaft bearings. If you are just talking about the cover for the stator, that’s only about 10% of the job.
No I meant the flywheel and clutch assembly look new and as for the cam chain it looks new as well. And I was going to look into it more in my manual (haven't had the chance yet) but in order to fix my timing can I do it from just taking off the stator cover....that's the one on the right if you're sitting on the bike?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No I meant the flywheel and clutch assembly look new and as for the cam chain it looks new as well. And I was going to look into it more in my manual (haven't had the chance yet) but in order to fix my timing can I do it from just taking off the stator cover....that's the one on the right if you're sitting on the bike?
Or am I going to have to open up the entire case in order to adjust timing?
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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Stator cover is on the left. The stator is the alternator and the flywheel has the magnets to induce electrical current in the stator coils.

The timing cover (Yamaha calls it the oil pump cover for some stupid reason) is on the right. To set the timing, you have to remove the valve cover, the cams and the timing cover on the right. But if your cams are out of time, you will have bent valves. There are close interference engines, and can’t tolerate more than one tooth off in timing, so I am not sure what you are trying to accomplish by “adjusting you timing”. Why do you think there is an issue? Do you have a service manual? If not, you need to get one before you turn another bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Stator cover is on the left. The stator is the alternator and the flywheel has the magnets to induce electrical current in the stator coils.

The timing cover (Yamaha calls it the oil pump cover for some stupid reason) is on the right. To set the timing, you have to remove the valve cover, the cams and the timing cover on the right. But if your cams are out of time, you will have bent valves. There are close interference engines, and can’t tolerate more than one tooth off in timing, so I am not sure what you are trying to accomplish by “adjusting you timing”. Why do you think there is an issue? Do you have a service manual? If not, you need to get one before you turn another bolt.
I have one and yes I am aware of that I guess what I'm really saying is I want to check/adjust the valves because it seems as if I'm getting a build up of exhaust in the cylinders. I did a AI system delete and that seemed to help for awhile but now it is back to low idle/cut out completely and cutting off when the clutch is pulled in. I just had the valves redone last season because I was having the same issue and after the valve adjustment it seemed to be fine up until now. I have cleaned and synced the throttle body as well as cleaned the air filter and checked fuel lines/throttle body sensor and free play in throttle. I also understand that although I can temporarily fix the idle issue with the idle screw after it warms up to operating temperature the idle shoots up too 4000rpm and I have to adjust it back down. So I have a feeling that it is in the exhaust it's the last place I haven't checked myself. I have also checked for leaks from the header and I'm all good there and have replaced the plugs and have good coils as I have the replacements for the recall and the pipes evaporate water accordingly when I start the bike. The other possibility is that something was adjusted by previous owner as he had a PC3 installed but did not sell it with the bike. I don't know mechanically what would have been adjusted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have one and yes I am aware of that I guess what I'm really saying is I want to check/adjust the valves because it seems as if I'm getting a build up of exhaust in the cylinders. I did a AI system delete and that seemed to help for awhile but now it is back to low idle/cut out completely and cutting off when the clutch is pulled in. I just had the valves redone last season because I was having the same issue and after the valve adjustment it seemed to be fine up until now. I have cleaned and synced the throttle body as well as cleaned the air filter and checked fuel lines/throttle body sensor and free play in throttle. I also understand that although I can temporarily fix the idle issue with the idle screw after it warms up to operating temperature the idle shoots up too 4000rpm and I have to adjust it back down. So I have a feeling that it is in the exhaust it's the last place I haven't checked myself. I have also checked for leaks from the header and I'm all good there and have replaced the plugs and have good coils as I have the replacements for the recall and the pipes evaporate water accordingly when I start the bike. The other possibility is that something was adjusted by previous owner as he had a PC3 installed but did not sell it with the bike. I don't know mechanically what would have been adjusted.
Is it possible I might be just 1 tooth off in the cam chain and have these issues?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Is it possible I might be just 1 tooth off in the cam chain and have these issues?
And the manual has several different suggestions for that issue all of which I have checked except for the valves because I figured since I had then done last season that wouldn't be the issue.
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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Have you checked the cold idle solenoid on the throttle bodies? It is a plunger attached to the tb rack that is operated by coolant lines going to it. As the coolant heats up the plunger moves a linkage to drop the idle. Can’t remember if it goes out or in with higher temp, but it should move.

As far as the PC, if you have a high flow exhaust, then yeah, these bikes don’t like to idle cold without a fuel map adjustment.
 
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