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Flying Finn
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71 Posts
Yes, there is a tool for those crown headed nuts but you can also open them with flat headed screwdriver and hammer. For tightening you will need a tool.
 

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"The Dude abides .. "
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4,719 Posts
you can use a set of channel locks.. it's not ideal, but it will work. you do an initial torque of about 32 ft lb on the lower of the 2 nuts, then REdo it at 10-11ft lb. get a feel for what that is using a torque wrench. it's not a lot. just make sure the triples swing back forth easily, but not so loose they flop side to side on own. Remember, there will be forks and a wheel attached, so having to push em a tad isn't bad. then put the rubber washer on, then snug the top down and slide the lock ring over both. 85ft lb on the TOP triple nut.

yes, the proper spanner is ideal, but your lock nuts look all f-ed up already.. so why are you worried about em?
 

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Flying Finn
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71 Posts
A spanner will remove them but will not provide the ability to torque them back on.
For steering head nuts Yamaha doesn't seem to give tightening torque and Yamaha's "special tool" is just a simple spanner. Steering head (and bearings) are tightened to right torque when the force needed to turn steering is right. Only the topmost nut that holds upper triple tree clamp in place is tightened to a torque and thats not a special tool, it is 32mm socket.
 

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Parts Pimp
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26,470 Posts
For steering head nuts Yamaha doesn't seem to give tightening torque and Yamaha's "special tool" is just a simple spanner. Steering head (and bearings) are tightened to right torque when the force needed to turn steering is right. Only the topmost nut that holds upper triple tree clamp in place is tightened to a torque and thats not a special tool, it is 32mm socket.

I don't have a manual on me, but the process Melk man mentions is what I've read in the manual. There are torque specs for these special nuts. Not just the top one on the triple. And the one on the triple is 67 ft/lbs from what I do remember.

I can't deny that I've had a clunky steering stem and used a spanner to add a 1/4 turn to the nut. That's just not the proper way to do it though. And I'm not going to tell someone it is ya know?
 

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Flying Finn
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71 Posts
I don't have a manual on me, but the process Melk man mentions is what I've read in the manual. There are torque specs for these special nuts. Not just the top one on the triple. And the one on the triple is 67 ft/lbs from what I do remember.

I can't deny that I've had a clunky steering stem and used a spanner to add a 1/4 turn to the nut. That's just not the proper way to do it though. And I'm not going to tell someone it is ya know?
I have the workshop manual on me for 2007 R6. There are lower and upper ring nuts (those crown headed ones) and steering head nut that only holds upper triple clamp against those ring nuts. Checking again that manual I stand corrected, there is a tightening torque for those ring nuts that tighten the steering head. But it not nowhere near the torque you have given. Right final torque is 14Nm (10ft/lb). I'd say that better way to check the tightness is to measure force needed to turn steering. That should be from 200 to 500 grams measured from the end of handlebar.
 

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Parts Pimp
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I have the workshop manual on me for 2007 R6. There are lower and upper ring nuts (those crown headed ones) and steering head nut that only holds upper triple clamp against those ring nuts. Checking again that manual I stand corrected, there is a tightening torque for those ring nuts that tighten the steering head. But it not nowhere near the torque you have given. Right final torque is 14Nm (10ft/lb). I'd say that better way to check the tightness is to measure force needed to turn steering. That should be from 200 to 500 grams measured from the end of handlebar.

What is the torque of the steering stem nut itself? The 36mm one. That is the one I am saying is 67 ft/lb
 

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Parts Pimp
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That would be 110Nm (80lb/ft). If you torque those crown headed nuts to that it will kill bearings instantly.

Man I dunno why I thought it was 67! My manual says 115nm which is 85 lbs like Melk man said.

My initial post was to state that there is a torque spec and procedure for the other nuts in the stem assembly as Melk man mentioned. I did not intend to convey the idea those should be 67 lbs.

Either way, OP should get the right tools and do it right IMO. Just winging it on the torque specs on these parts isn't the best idea. There's plenty of other bolts I could care less about and go by what feels right. But the stem setup is not one. A loose setup can rock back and forth in the frame and is unsafe.
 

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Man I dunno why I thought it was 67! My manual says 115nm which is 85 lbs like Melk man said.

My initial post was to state that there is a torque spec and procedure for the other nuts in the stem assembly as Melk man mentioned. I did not intend to convey the idea those should be 67 lbs.

Either way, OP should get the right tools and do it right IMO. Just winging it on the torque specs on these parts isn't the best idea. There's plenty of other bolts I could care less about and go by what feels right. But the stem setup is not one. A loose setup can rock back and forth in the frame and is unsafe.
Because you in crab coma bro lmao
 

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"The Dude abides .. "
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4,719 Posts
Man I dunno why I thought it was 67! My manual says 115nm which is 85 lbs like Melk man said.

My initial post was to state that there is a torque spec and procedure for the other nuts in the stem assembly as Melk man mentioned. I did not intend to convey the idea those should be 67 lbs.

Either way, OP should get the right tools and do it right IMO. Just winging it on the torque specs on these parts isn't the best idea. There's plenty of other bolts I could care less about and go by what feels right. But the stem setup is not one. A loose setup can rock back and forth in the frame and is unsafe.
true. even if you tighten the top nut to 85ft lb, if the 2 lock nuts below the triple are not correctly done, the entire front end could be loose.
 

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nom nom nom nom nom nom
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He means torquing it down to 32, then backing it off and re-torquing it down to 10 to 11.
 
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