in relation to Jees' question, how many miles before we consider "tune up"? So far i have put 4,000 miles on mine and i am not sure if i need to take my bike for a tune up @ the shop or just an oil change will do?.....the shop do charge alot for an oil change $37.50 for labor and lpus $30+ for parts (oil, oil filter) so total of almost $70.00!
check air filter/box
carb or throttle body synch.
that's basically what i would call a tune-up.
A shop now,
They will change oil, filter
that's about it.
Mike, most all 03 R6's had throttle bodies, or any new bike for that matter, could use a synching. Called for in service at 600 miles actually i believe. Mine were off.
If you guys are worried, just stick to the basic recommended service's. Otherwise changing oils etc... should be done by yourself if you are capable.
Also, just think of all your safety issues, bolts torque, chain, brakes, air pressure, sprockets and constantly check yourself to save money and to KNOW they got done! That's the major issue for me, knowing it got done right, when i do it! :mrgreen:
Yeah you can't trust a lot of bike shops. Do the easy stuff yourself.
Oil, Chain, tyres.
Saying that for resell value you need that stamp in your owners manual. So for the majors go to a reputable shop. It'll cost more but it's more likely to be done.
Get them to 'write down' exactly what they are doing before the service then check after to see if there's been any work done. A service I got on my last bike from the guys I bought it off they said coolant and i checked after and it was empty. He told me he never said coolant was involved. Wish I had it in writing. Never been back to them.
Ask other riders in your area who's good.
Red & Cral, you guys are right about making sure things got done right on your bike. In fact, a friend of mine just got his oil change & tire rotation doen on his car. Guess what? When the whole service got done, while he was pulling out of the shop, someone flagged him to pull over since they notice that his wheels were wobblign and about to come off!
The mechanic forgot to tighten his nuts!
Okay, my 03 R6 has 4,200 miles, i went to a cycle shop locally (http://www.cyclegear.com) and asked some guy to recommend an oil type and brand. He told me to use MOTOREX brand SAE 15W/50. 1 Gal. for $25.95. I am not sure it this is good for the weather now in California (winter). I still get confused with the oil type rating numbers (ie: 10w/30)?
And also the guy recommended FRAM oil filters. I was wondering if anyone of you guys would recommend something better? I heard about Motuls. Are they worth it? I am basically using my R6 for commuting mostly. No stunting or crazy speeds yet. Mayeb next year.
When I take my bike into the dealer for service I usually get my brake fluid changed once a year. Every 4000miles I get them to change the oil, filter, and spark plugs. Check the air cleaner and clean the throttle bodies that sort of thing. Then they do the chain slack and lube the cables too making sure nothing is getting overlooked :wave
Yeah I guess I am better off doing the check up by myself rather than paying for it. I just hit 10,000 miles and the idiot i bought it from at 7,777 miles said it was serviced when i bought it but i know he's full of shit.
I hope there's some online guiles for what to look for and how to do them.
I noticed that it makes a rattling noise in neutral and goes away when i pull in the clutch. I think its time for a new clutch anyway it catches all the way at the end. Hopefully the noise might stop if i changed the clutch
Anyway I'm getting lazy and haven't babied the bike in a while. I use to wash my bike everyday the first week i got it, then once a week, now i cant even remember that last time i washed it.
My 2001 also makes a bit of noise in neutral, only when the clutch is out. That noise is actually from the gears in mesh and is perfectly normal. It happens when you are driving also, but you cannot hear it because of the engine noise. Getting it checked by someone who knows, whether it's a dealer or not is the best bet.
As far as your clutch needing to be replaced, I wouldn't think you have a problem unless it is slipping. The cable actuated clutches need to be adjusted quite frequently compared to hydrualic clutches. The cable stretches relatively fast, especially if it hasn't been lubed regularly. Mine needed adjusting the first 2000 miles about once a week to keep the friction point in the same place on the lever throw. Did you adjust the cable at the lever? If so and it is all the way out, you may just need a new cable. But as always, check with someone you trust and knows about 6's.
Cool, thanks for the info. So the noise is ok huh? Its reassuming to hear that but its time i tune my baby up anyway. Sounds like somethings loose (just a lil bit) because i didnt really notice it when i first got the bike.
As for the clutch cable i just replaced it because the guy i bought it from crashed the bike and broke the adjuster (their only made of plastic, what a joke!). It was a pain in the ass but i'm pretty sure i did it right. I tighten the adjust as far as it will go, and i think it catches kinda far out. But i guess i could wait a few thousand more miles before i replace it.
anyway thanks for the insight
What do you guys think about engine back fire? it is bad? Mine seems to do it a lot not loud gunshots but sputters of back fire. Some one told me it needs to be rejetted becaues the aftermarket can and you have to run it on a dyno to fix and thats $300. Well... What do you guys thinks? It's not bad for the engine right?
Backfires do not harm the engine in any way at all. They do very much harm your pipe though. It will blow the internal baffles out of the pipe, making it louder and giving less back pressure. Some slip-ons require jetting, some don't. If your carbs are out of sync or need to be cleaned they could also cause backfires. Mine used to make one nasty backfire when I let off around 8 grand, like doing wheelies. My brother said he could see the flame about a foot out the back of the pipe! I went and got the carbs cleaned and syncronized the next day, and that seems to have taken care of it. I bet it sure startled the neighbors. :twisted: The burbling sputters I never had. Like you mentioned, it is probably from the aftermarket pipe. Good luck.
I have had sputters after i run the rpm's up really high and let it throttle down on it's own, but that is just exhaust backing out of the system, not backfiring. I was told that there are two types of backfiring, one is relatedto the carbs(i think)and the other is related to the timing.
Man, I forget who started this thread, but thank you! I was wandering the same thing before putting it away for the winter season. In the last few miles (about 100 ago) I changed the oil, and I removed both of the side fairings (the plastics, colored parts) and cleaned them thoroughly. I suggest if you are cleaning your bike to take them off. It's not that hard, and especially when like changing oil, one side is already off anyways. It's better at least for me, because it's a biatch to wash the plastics when it's so close to the ground.
I also tightened my rear brake, and that made a heck of a difference. A couple weeks ago I began locking the rear brake up and making it skid at stop lights just to get used to the feel of locking it up. I tightening of the breke did wanders, it WAS squeeking, but now it doesn't so that's good.
Anyways, that's the only thing that frightens me, is if I go get my valves synched... well dang, $250 for not knowing if the job was really done or not. Especially when that exact same place said the ticking was normal. So, in essence, if I paid that, had them "fix" it, and it came back to me sounding the same, I just lost all that money. No thanks dealer, I'm going to the local guy...
my 3 cents...
P.S. I only had one big back-fire, and that was within the first week of brake in. Around 25-100 miles I'd say is when it happened, and then one other time, but that's it... I have an '03 by the way.
Jeees and Jar, Check your tolerance's on the clutch baskets. Get a manual and check them. You'll get clutch chatter, or can like you guys describe when tolerances or the basket is wearing slightly. Distinctively goes away with disengageing the clutch, or putting a load on it (in gear driving).
My bike only has about 3500 miles on it. Is it normal for there to be that kind of tolerance in the clutch basket at such low miles? It doesnt sound like chattering, more like clicking or gears meshing. I've heard other bikes doing it as well. All Yamaha's though. An 89 FJ1300, a 96 YZF750, and mine. I think I will check it out, just to be safe.
Rubber side down!
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