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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I'm after some tuning info for my new 2003 R6 can anyone help me with advice with any cheap mods, to expensive head work i am gonna build a beast and would be very thankful of any info regarding this topic!

thanks the dazzler
 

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Welcome to the boards.

I wouldn't know as far as porting goes, I haven't seen the heads yet. I would know that you could do a little cleaning work with some casting flaws and get a nice polish on the exhaust ports however.

A set of cams with adjustable timing gears would be something possibly worth looking into. Yamaha also has a tighter head gasket for a little more compression. I don't think i'd do anything major or much if anything more to the engine than i mention, cause you'll be close to having to run race gas.

You can go with full exhaust, PC3, BMC filter, slide stops, fuel pressure boost, velocity stacks etc...

However, you can do all of this work and still gain little over stock, and you'd be paying out your ass for all that also.

For performance and control mods this would be my order.

1. Suspension tuning / find perfect tires
2. steering damper
3. SS brake lines/ good pads
4. 520 chain conversion
5. yoyodyne quick throttle (this is the shit, my next buy)
6. frame sliders
7. exhaust/ PC3
 

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susp settings as a baseline to start... :twisted: <---

If it's gonna be a track bike, go for a full system, with a PowerCommander $300 (with the quick shift option) , BMC Race Air filter $90, Graves Velocity Stacks $90 and Slide Stop Kit $70.

All of those will help to get the air/fuel in and out faster. Also Yamaha Racing Parts has thinner head gaskets for bumping up your compression (need to run high octane gas tho), different intake and exhaust cams and sprockets for those cams, beefier clutch plates, etc....Yoyodyne also makes a race throttle with three different cams for 3 different andles of operation.

There are alot of things you can do to it depending on what you ultimately want to do with it.

Just my thoughts...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
First off thanks for the info!

Firstly I’m gonna raise the compression by taking a laminate off a standard head gasket and spraying some loctite spray gasket on both sides to compensate I think it’ll reduce the thickness by maybe 8thou probably the same as the YEC part!

I’m over the pond in the UK so be patient with my understanding of the jargon differences! please describe a slide stop, a fuel pressure boost and i take it velocity stacks are bell mouths( what do i swap too?)

You say about the GRAVES parts etc.. can you put me onto anyone who will export me some parts please , I’m fortunate to live a couple of miles from the UK importer of Dynojet so a Power commander should be no problem.

I’m gonna port the head myself cos it’s gonna get raced in the British champs (well at least the first few rounds money allowing! Has anyone tried the Motoman technique on a R6 he speaks highly of it ! I tuned my last British Champ contender GSXR1000K1 to 174bhp (back wheel) and a mate of mine did his Motoman way and got a massive 184bhp (back wheel cough, cough yes I know!!!!!!)


Thanks the dazzler
 

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Daz (anything in bold you can click on......),

Some clarification for you. Slide stops taken from Graves website:

Graves Motorsports Throttle Slide Stop Kit has been designed to hold the throttle slides in the fully open position while increasing fuel pressure in the injectors fuel rail. The outcome is improved throttle response and increased acceleration. The kit comes complete with comprehensive installation instructions and a selection of fuel maps for the Dynojet Power Commander, to suit your specific application. (Note the Graves Slide Stop kit must be used in conjunction with a Dynojet Power Commander.)
Suggested items to go with this product: AB009 Velocity Stack Kit (R6 only)
http://www.gravesport.com/fuelsys_yamahaR6.html
Install Instructions for the slide stop kithttp://www.gravesport.com/instructions/AB006.doc

Velocity stacks are bell mouths, yes, and the slide stops achieve higher fuel pressure by using an auxillary inline fuel pressure booster, or so I'm told.

This is the quick shift option for the PowerCommander:

The Dynojet Quick Shifter Sensors are compatible with USB Power Commanders and allow "full throttle, clutch- less" upshifts. These high quality sensors provide fast, accurate and reliable shifting in conjunction with the Power Commander. Sensors are attached to the gear linkage and connect into the Power Commander expansion port. All sensors include a Software utility which allows the user to adjust the "Kill Time" and "Minimum RPM Shift Point" within the Power Commander Control Center Software.

Shift Rod Sensors require the gear linkage tie-rod to be modified. We are developing a range of tie-rods for the popular models, as well as universal tie-rods that are specifically designed to give maximum adjustment, allowing a combination of different M6 right hand and left hand male and female threads over a wide range of 160mm to 280mm. This will allow easy installation on many models as well as some custom rear-set applications.


Have read through Motoman's website but since his technique hasn't been widely adopted or independantly tested and verified by anyone other than himself, I myself would stay away for the moment. While I agree with him in theory, I'm not sure it works out that way all the time. I mean, Yamaha spends an awful lot of time on R&D with their bikes, so if they haven't found it to be beneficial, then I'd be wary, but that's me.

Anything else, or if I missed something let me know. Graves will be more than happy to ship to the Kingdom. Their R6's had an incredibly strong showing last year in 600cc SuperSport so it says something about their products. The riders also have a fair bit to do with it too..........

P
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
dear p,

where do you get the fuel pressure booster from?

i'll have to leave the quick shifter cos your not allowed to run them!

i think i maybe just port the head by matching the inlet rubbers then polish the exhaust side and leave the motoman theory! then just throw in some flat face stainless valves!

thanks for your help


daz
 

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Fuel pressure booster is part of the slide stop kit. check the install directions as that's where it mentions it. doesn't mention it in the description in the website.
 

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I am slowly building my '03 into a track-only bike.

I spoke with a local race shop, and they recommended that I do the suspension before any other "performance" mods. He said a good start would be to have to stock fork worked on, and to ditch the stock rear and get a Fox racing shock.

Of course, I am doing this on my spare cash, so my priorities start with the cheaper stuff. My skills will be the limiting factor as far as how competitive the bike is, so I am not going to worry too much about internal engine work.


Bought so far:
1) ZG double bubble screen. (my ass is too fat to tuck behind the stock)
2) Intuitive sliders; frame, clutch, swingarm, bar-end
3) Galfer SS Brake lines, Vesrah pads
4) 15t countershaft sprocket
5) Scott's damper

Ordering this spring: (hopefully in trade for my stock fairings)
1) AK Composites race fairings
2) Graves fairing bracket
3) Woodcraft case covers

Going to try and do a few local races this coming summer, but mainly concentrate on getting some training and a ton of track time under my belt. I doubt I will outride my suspension in my first season, and I definitely won't need any more power.

Next offseason I will probably spend a bit more.

1) Traxxion Dynamics re-worked forks
2) Fox racing shock
3) M4 full system
4) Graves slide stops and velocity stacks. (stock filter)
5) PC-III with custom map
6) 520 conversion
7) Rearsets and clipons

I just bought myself a set of tools specifically for racing, a trailer, and a set of Pit Bull stands. I will still need a lap timer, generator, and tire-warmers. Not to mention all the $$$ I will be spending on tires and spare parts.

Doesn't look like I am going to be getting that new truck I want any time soon. :roll: Hell, I am probably going to be sleeping in the garage tonight when my wife finds out how much I spent on the Damper and SS lines... just before X-Mas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
so i've got

Full stainless AKRAPOVIC system
YEC exhaust bracket
PERFORMANCE TECHNIQUES rear#sets
HARRIS clip-ons
i'm borrowing a data logger

i've ordered

a slipper clutch
race bodykit
DYMAG five spokes
chain conversion + 3 front and 8 rear sprockets
and some other stuff i can't remember!

still living at home with mother!!! hence the extra cash!!!!!!

the dazzler #6
 

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I would hold off on the carbon wheels. Here in Dallas, the local shops won't put on the tires. Would cost them to much if the **** up. And the local track here, they will not pass saftey inspection for a track day.

They sure look pimp though.

DJ1298
 

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they r very week 4 road use. carbon is stronger than alloy, but they make it very thin to save weight, the first curb u hit will buckle it
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
who mentioned carbon wheels......?

i wouldn't entertain'em

i meant DYMAG's of the Magnesium metally variety......!!!

the dazzler
 

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well, since we have gotten on the subject....And I thought I remembered them being certified for road use in the UK....

Just a little info about the Blackstone Tek Carbon wheels......

Our unique 5-spoke carbon composite wheel is made using the latest technology, materials and manufacturing processes. This lightweight and exceedingly strong wheel is suitable for both racing and street racing use. The wheels have been tested at Rim Technology (UK government certified facility), and passed all the tests for road certification. And most important of all, our wheels are unique in that they are created as a single unit - we dont bond pieces together



Technical Information
Weight:

Street Race:
2.1 - 2.2 kg, depending on motorcycle
(including alloy hub, steel fittings with bearings).

Racing version:
1.9 - 2.1 kg, depending on motorcycle
(including magnesium hub, titanium fittings with bearings).

Sizes:

Front Wheel:
3.5" x 17"
3.5" x 16.5"

Rear Wheel:
5.50" x 17" (single sided and conventional swing arm).
5.75" x 17" (single sided and conventional swing arm).
6.00" x 17" (single sided and conventional swing arm).
6.25" x 16.5" (conventional swing arm).

(range will increase during 2002)


5-spoke design
Aerospace FAR25 qualified materials
Manufacturing facility is ISO 9002 certified by the German TUV
Complete traceability in manufacturing process and materials used including the hubs
Manufacturing process allows for full identification and traceability (based on the process used for critical parts in the aerospace industry)
All wheels leaving the factory will be bar coded for easy identification and full traceability
Nesting and cutting machines are the same as those used in the aerospace industry - each wheel pattern is cut and the part is numbered simultaneously guaranteeing correctness and uniformity
Wheels passed all tests for road certification carried out by Rim Technology (UK government certified facility)
Corner fatigue carried out as specified in BS. AU. 50.
Radial fatigue carried out as specified in BS. AU. 50.
Torsional fatigue carried out as specified in BS. AU. 50.
Impact test carried out as specified in JWL

Front:


Rear:


Closeup of carbon fiber strand orientation:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
cheers Clint,

how much shipping charge is there gonna be i'm only after some light bits!

. velocity stacks
. a quick action throttle with assembly like that yoyodyne item!
. and if you know of some other interesting items!

cheers the dazzler
 

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Reminder to whoever gets the yoyodyne quick throttle, it will require the use of a R1 kill switch.
 
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