Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi guys,

So I got my R6 through its MOT today!!!! I bought my R6 3 weeks ago from a guy who had it in storage for over 4 years. The bike is a 2000 R6 with just under 7000 miles on the clock, last MOT being 2008. I bought it knowing it needed a lot of work put in so I also got a Haynes manual and found this helpful site! I've never worked on a bike before so I want to say a serious thanks to this site and its contributors because I've read hundreds of articles and comments and it has helped me so much. I couldn't of done it without you!

The majority of the work was stripping down and cleaning the parts. With the low mileage I hoped nothing would need replacing. I learnt as I went along, taking a bunch of pictures to keep a log of where every part went.

The work (so far) includes:
Fuel tap fix
Air filter clean
Carb cleaning
Tank de-rusting
Coolant change
Oil change
Carb syncing

I will post the progress in sections over the next few days to keep it neat. Any questions please ask! and feedback is greatly appreciated as I've never done anything like this before!

This is a picture of my bike from its listing before it was delivered to me
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
When the bike was delivered it started, but the bike sounded very sluggish and kept stalling. The next morning, before I had a chance to take pictures of my new bike, I started taking it apart!

First remove the seat. The two screws are in the rear two corners, just pull up the corners and the bolt is accessible. The seat just lifts up after they have been removed. I would recommend screwing bolts back onto the bike as you go so you don't need to remember where each screw came from.

Disconnect the battery.

To remove the tank there are two screws just below the handlebars and a bolt at the base of the tank which the tank pivots on.

The Haynes manual said to disconnect the fuel gauge cable (green, see pic), switch the fuel tap to ‘off’ and disconnect the hose from the fuel filter, while using a rag to catch the excess fuel from the filter.



The petrol was slowly pouring out of the tank for 30 seconds before I decided that this was not ‘excess fuel’ and that I had a problem. It turned out that the fuel tap gasket had degraded so it couldn't be switched off!



Also the inside of the tank was covered in rust :thumbdown





I ordered some new fuel tap gaskets from Yambits.co.uk but I waited until I had cleaned the tank before I fitted the tap back onto the tank.

The Air filter box was much easier to remove than reinstall as some hoses underneath the air box are hard to access. There are more hose connections to be removed so take note of where they go!

There are two hoses at the front that have collars that need to be loosened at both ends before they are removed. (see pic)



There are also 4 clasps that need to be loosened at the base of the air box and one screw attaching a collector. (see pic)



Once you have removed and loosened the remaining hoses and clamps the box should lift of with little resistance.

I read somewhere that the filter can be cleaned if it looks damage free.



As it looked fine (just dirty) I washed the filter (still attached to the filter clamp as its pretty fixed in). I carefully washed the filter with warm soapy water, then rinsed it several times in clean water until no more soap came out. After it dried I applied a small amount of engine oil, as advised in the manual. I hung it up to drip of excess oil and then stored it back in the Air filter box ready to be reinstalled later.

The next job was removing the carburettor. As this carb has coolant going through it the Haynes manual recommends draining the coolant first. I have no pictures of doing this but it was pretty straight forward. The main things to mention are that the coolant comes out at quite a speed; so have a wide bucket ready to catch the jet as it leaves, and the second thing is that the coolant can be sweet/nice smelling but is poisonous so think about pets before leaving it lying around in open containers.

Disconnect the coolant hose



Remove the choke cable from the front of the carb by loosening the screw and getting the nipple out of its slot. (see pic)



Remove the throttle cables., I labelled the top a bottom cables to make putting them back easier. (see pic)



Access to the front of these cables is achieved by removing the small triangular panel. The view from this side.




Remove the idle adjuster (right side of bike) by pushing the nob in the direction of the red arrow



Disconnect the fuel hose



Disconnect the white electrical socket



And now for the hard bit! There are four clamps around the base of each carb (see pic)



The easiest way to access these (there is one on each of the four carbs, with the bolts on the right hand side).



The one on the right may be in the lower location which is easy to access from the side. Mine was facing the front with the rest which was a MISSION to access...




The bolts need a very long allen key to turn. My screwdriver had an extender and an allen key head which worked pretty well. The rubber lining at the bottom can be pushed down to provide better access to the bolt - see pic (lines in blue represent how the lining can be moved) (ignore the black and red circles showing choke cable position)




And now you should be able to remove the carb!! Advise here is that you plug the holes with rags to stop any debris falling into your bike.


The carb removed and ready for cleaning!!!

 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cleaning the carburettor

Things you'll need:
Some carb cleaner
Protection for hands and eyes
Compressed air
Thin wire for cleaning jets
Jars for soaking parts in carb cleaner over-night
Cotton bud (Q-tips) and an old tooth brush for cleaning
Replacement gaskets
Long nosed pliers
Screwdrivers

First I removed the spring / choke linkage bar








Using the long nosed pliers remove the choke plunger nut





Remove the top cover - there's a spring in there so hold it carefully!





Remove the diaphragm carefully as it’s very delicate. If you tear it you will need to replace it! Check it for any damage



Get the jet needle out of its holder and set it aside to be cleaned. This also needs to be checked for straightness.




Take the top off the float chamber by removing the 4 screws in the corners





It looks pretty grim inside there



I decided I wanted to replace the gaskets so I ordered some from www.frost.co.uk . Not only were these guys the cheapest price I found but I received the gaskets the next day! Some sites and tutorials said it was acceptable to reuse the gasket if the old one was not too worn but I didn't want to risk it leaking!

Remove the float assembly by removing the screw pictured and check the action of the needle on the attached valve (the needle should freely drop down when pushed). Mine was jammed so I put a small drop of carb cleaner on it and this loosened the needle. Also check that the rubber tip is still in good condition as a defect could affect the valves action.





Remove the various jets. Before removing the pilot jet (pictured) check its height by counting the number of turns it takes to screw the jet to the bottom of its hole.



Mine were set at 2 full turns. When it comes to replacing them, screw them all the way in the screw them back out the number of turned you originally counted. Mine were set at 2 turns.










Be careful when removing them as you do not want to damage the ends and get them stuck. Mine were very stiff, but the right sized screw driver and a bit of brute force and they came out intact.

I originally tried to clean the jets my spraying them with the carb cleaner, but this was not very effective so I left them to soak overnight in carb cleaner (I also soaked the top of the float bowl).

 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The next day the jets were easier to clean. There was still some stubborn dirt that took some effort to clear. I was using a bristle from a wire brush as this was thin enough and quite strong. I check for any blockages by spraying compressed air into the jets and watching how well it dispersed when it came out. By the end all of the jets were working very well.


I used an old tooth brush and q-tips to clean the inside of the carb bowl. Here are two of the before / after pictures.









I then reassembled the 1st carb and started cleaning carbs 2, 3 and 4.



Because I wanted to soak the parts overnight in the carb cleaner I did all 3 carbs at the same time, being careful to keep track of which set of jets came from which carb. Apparently if you mix up the jets it can increase the wear and tear, and reduce its effectiveness.



Also check the height of each of the pilot jets as they may not all be set the same. Mine were all set at 2 turns.

I then repeated the same cleaning process with the remaining jets and reassembled the carb using the new gaskets and returned it to the bike.

 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Next I wanted to clean the rust off the inside of the tank.

Requirements:
POR-15 Motorcycle Fuel Tank Repair Kit
Rubber gloves
Eye protection
Duct tape
Masking tape
Cling film
Funnel
Bucket
Cable-ties large and small

I went with POR-15 based on this guy’s experience www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=768604. The POR-15 is a three stage process that cleans the inside of the tank with acid, neutralises the acid with an alkaline solution so that the final coating can be applied to leave a new finish on the inside of the tank.

Here is my before and after shot:





I learnt as I went along and I would definitely do a few things differently if I was to do this again, but I highly recommend POR-15 as I ended up with a great finish in the end.

The cheapest deal I could find for POR-15 was on Amazon.co.uk and I paid £45 delivered (UK).

I found that the best instructions that came with the POR-15 were on the tin for the final stage paint, which I only saw what I got to the final stage! I tried to follow the thread linked above as much as possible and the instructions that came in the box.


As I had already removed and drained the tank Step 1 was to remove all of the attachments (fuel filter/fuel gauge/fuel cap)







I then took the tank into the shower and rinsed it out with warm water several times, getting rid of as much of the loose rust as I could.

I prepared the tank for the Marine Clean by cling-filming the outside of the tank and taping the edges with some good quality masking tape. I duct-taped the remaining holes closed.

To warn you now this method did not work very well at all!!!!









The Marine clean was to be mixed with equal parts warm water. The person I copied said that his solution was too hot and it melted the duct-tape adhesive. I used warm not hot water and the duct tape still came off :cuss

The leak also meant that the solution got stuck under the cling-film, trapping it against the paint work. :dunce:

Luckily I anticipated this so to prevent damaging the paint I removed all of the tape and cling-film as soon as I realised it wasn’t properly sealed and wiped the tank clean.

At this point I just wanted to get this stage out of the way so I taped some card-board over the bottom holes which I then held with my gloved hand, and also held a plug again the top hole.





I shook the tank around collecting the leaked solution in a plastic box, pour and then left the tank on its side to allow the solution to work. I repeated this for 2 hours with a friend helping me pour the recovered solution back inside the tank. (The mixture was very rusty at the end!)







Some people leave this solution in for many hours, rotating the tank and leaving it overnight. If I did this again this is what I would attempt to do as my 2 hours was not enough to clear off all of the rust. It still did an excellent job though.



The second phase uses an alkaline based neutraliser (Prep & Ready) that prepares the tank for the final stage. The alkaline is important as the final stage needs an alkaline surface to bond with.

I first rinsed the tank again to get rust/solution out.

After drying the outside I covered the outside of the tank with masking tape, leaving a circle around the top. I cling-filmed the tank as before, but I left the same wide circle around the top of the tank and cut off any cling-film that went under the tank.



I then taped the cling-film down with the good quality masking. I started at the edge of the cling film and worked my way in until I had covered the top of the tank to the edge of the fuel cap.



This is an after picture where you can see the taping



I also taped the bottom edge of the cling-film where it started to go under the tank.

 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
To seal the top of the tank I used the plug as it fitted the hole on top very snugly.





I used cable ties to hold it down against the tank as tight as I could, protecting the tank from the tight cable ties with cardboard.



I then squeezed 2 small blocks of wood on top of the plug, but under the cable ties putting a good amount of pressure on the plug holding it in place.



I also cable-tied duct tape around the over flow holes on the underside of the tank.




I make a 3 layered cardboard/wood/wood shape that fitted over the holes on the bottom, aligning some holes for the original screws to secure the shape to the bottom of the tank.







I shook the tank for 15 minutes and then left it in a position for 30 minutes. The instructions say to not leave this solution in for more than 2 hours so I only repeated this for 2 hours.





This stage went much better. I had almost zero spillage, none went on the outside of the tank and the finished inside is looking miles better than it did originally!




The final stage of the tank restoration is the coating of the inside of the tank with a paint that gives the inside an almost new looking finnish. Before this coat can be applied, the tank needs to be rinsed out of the previous solution and completely dried out. I used a floor heater and a hair drying to heat up the tank. The tank got very hot quite quickly so I took the head off to avoid damaging the paintwork. I left the tank somewhere warm overnight and the next day heated the tank up for a few more hours.


When I was confident the tank was completely dry I prepared it for its final stage by adding my newly refined technique of sealing the tank.



I was worried that there were still some signs of rust visible and that I would need to repeat both stages in order to remove the rust and then treat it with alkaline, but I found that the final stage can be applied over small amounts of rust after it had been treated as the previous solutions help the final coat bond with the metal and any remaining rust.


You need to stir the paint until it stops changing consistency (10 minutes) and then pour the whole lot into the tank.



Next you need to seal the top of the tank and slowly rotate the tank until you are confident every surface of the inside of the tank is covered (15 mins). You are then supposed to drain off the excess paint and let the tank sit to dry. After draining the excess for 10 minutes I decided to pour the paint back into the tank and continue rotating as I did not want to mess up this stage!



I finally drained out the excess paint leaving it for 30 minutes over a pot. I then left the tank in different positions allowing it to dry.

After I knew no more paint would come out I put the tank into the attic to dry for the recommended 96 hours.

After 24 hours I cleared the holes where the screws go in to make sure these wouldn't be sealed during the drying process.

96 hours later; voila!



The part of the tank under the fuel cap got slightly corroded as you can see in one of the pictures. I think it was a combo of the different chemicals and the duct-tape being used on this area. I painted to top to hide this and it came out nicely!





I then reattached the newly cleaned (and new gasket-ed) fuel tap and fuel gauge






I was now able to reattach the fuel tank to the bike, put fuel into the tank and see if the bike would start!!!! :nocontrol

I waited until I had a clean tank to do this as I didn't want to clean the carb and then run bad fuel though the system. I'm sure it wouldn't have had too much effect as the fuel filter would of taken out most of the rust but still I wanted to do things properly!
 

Attachments

·
Reads the rulez
Joined
·
2,247 Posts
You got a lot of time into this...great pics and write up!
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top