Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
iRun
Joined
·
33,317 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have Fren Tubo carbon fiber weaved (Type 4) lines... Front ones are on perfectly.

Rear one is routed just fine and all that jazz, but I have no pressure at the pads.

I've been bleeding in this method:

Fill rear reservoir and put cap on
open bleeder valve
push down brake lever
close bleeder valve
return brake lever
repeat until there is pressure at the lever...


I've been at it for quite a while, and no dice.
 

·
^^ tallest Yamaha rider^^
Joined
·
6,296 Posts
have u bled the master cylinder first? u want to make sure you do M/C a couple times, then move on to the calipers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,333 Posts
I've always done mine a little differently.. Not sure if it's the best method but it's always worked for me:

1. Fill rear reservoir - no need to put the cap back on
2. push down brake lever (to build pressure)
3. now open bleeder valve
4. close bleeder valve (before all the pressure is relieved)
5. return brake lever
6. repeat until there is pressure at the lever...
7. top off the reservoir and put cap back on


Pretty much you want constant pressure being fed to the caliper while the valve is open.
 

·
iRun
Joined
·
33,317 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
have u bled the master cylinder first? u want to make sure you do M/C a couple times, then move on to the calipers
Nope.. How do I do that?

I've always done mine a little differently.. Not sure if it's the best method but it's always worked for me:

1. Fill rear reservoir - no need to put the cap back on
2. push down brake lever (to build pressure)
3. now open bleeder valve
4. close bleeder valve (before all the pressure is relieved)
5. return brake lever
6. repeat until there is pressure at the lever...
7. top off the reservoir and put cap back on


Pretty much you want constant pressure being fed to the caliper while the valve is open.
My brother is helping me and he suggested that (we've been doing that once in a while too) but it's not helping... I think Killa has what I need.
 

·
^^ tallest Yamaha rider^^
Joined
·
6,296 Posts
Nope.. How do I do that?



My brother is helping me and he suggested that (we've been doing that once in a while too) but it's not helping... I think Killa has what I need.
yup that's why you're not getting pressure in the lines...bleed the M/C (it has a bleeder nipple on it as well) a few times...then bleed the calipers..you'll be golden
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,965 Posts
yup that's why you're not getting pressure in the lines...bleed the M/C (it has a bleeder nipple on it as well) a few times...then bleed the calipers..you'll be golden
Even on the rear?

Funny me and 3rd geer just went through this, took us a bit to figure it out lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,864 Posts
I have Fren Tubo carbon fiber weaved (Type 4) lines... Front ones are on perfectly.

Rear one is routed just fine and all that jazz, but I have no pressure at the pads.

I've been bleeding in this method:

Fill rear reservoir and put cap on
open bleeder valve
push down brake lever
close bleeder valve
return brake lever
repeat until there is pressure at the lever...


I've been at it for quite a while, and no dice.
there is your problem....whether you're doing rear or front.

keep it closed while pumping the brakes until it gets stiffer and stiffer. once it gets stiff, keep pushing the brake (rear) or holding the brake (front) by squeezing it. While squeezing open valve to bleed and release air/air bubbles in your lines. Close valve while still squeezing brakes (should be all the way compressed now due to opening valve). After valve is all the way closed release brake and do it all over again.
 

·
Riding his own ride...
Joined
·
4,639 Posts
The thing most people forget is to bleed the master cyl and also to close the bleeder valve BEFORE you reach the end of the lever travel. Basically you want to close it as fluid is coming out of the valve still. If you want until the lever stops and then close it no matter what some air will back up in there. So close it as fluid is coming out of the bleeder.

Also what helps is taking the clear tube that you attached to the bleeder and looping it in a circle like you're about to tie a knot in it. make the circle small and close the bleeder. Then the fluid has to go around the circle before it exits the tube. However, if you don't close the bleeder valve in time it's not a huge deal because once air goes around the circle it won't come back as air won't go backwards around the circle :) it will always stop at the top of the loop.

Also tap your lines a bit and calipers as it can help move any air that may be trapped on a sidewall, etc.

It's a slow process, but a good bleed is the most important part of getting good braking :fact
 

·
slow guy
Joined
·
4,409 Posts
there is your problem....whether you're doing rear or front.

keep it closed while pumping the brakes until it gets stiffer and stiffer. once it gets stiff, keep pushing the brake (rear) or holding the brake (front) by squeezing it. While squeezing open valve to bleed and release air/air bubbles in your lines. Close valve while still squeezing brakes (should be all the way compressed now due to opening valve). After valve is all the way closed release brake and do it all over again.
The thing most people forget is to bleed the master cyl and also to close the bleeder valve BEFORE you reach the end of the lever travel. Basically you want to close it as fluid is coming out of the valve still. If you want until the lever stops and then close it no matter what some air will back up in there. So close it as fluid is coming out of the bleeder.

Also what helps is taking the clear tube that you attached to the bleeder and looping it in a circle like you're about to tie a knot in it. make the circle small and close the bleeder. Then the fluid has to go around the circle before it exits the tube. However, if you don't close the bleeder valve in time it's not a huge deal because once air goes around the circle it won't come back as air won't go backwards around the circle :) it will always stop at the top of the loop.

Also tap your lines a bit and calipers as it can help move any air that may be trapped on a sidewall, etc.

It's a slow process, but a good bleed is the most important part of getting good braking :fact
Good info, sounds exactly like how vehicle brakes are bled.
 

·
iRun
Joined
·
33,317 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yup that's why you're not getting pressure in the lines...bleed the M/C (it has a bleeder nipple on it as well) a few times...then bleed the calipers..you'll be golden
There is no nipple on the rear master cylinder.. Unless I'm a complete idiot. I just looked.

there is your problem....whether you're doing rear or front.

keep it closed while pumping the brakes until it gets stiffer and stiffer. once it gets stiff, keep pushing the brake (rear) or holding the brake (front) by squeezing it. While squeezing open valve to bleed and release air/air bubbles in your lines. Close valve while still squeezing brakes (should be all the way compressed now due to opening valve). After valve is all the way closed release brake and do it all over again.
That's what I do.... Unless we're misunderstanding each other.
 

·
iRun
Joined
·
33,317 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The thing most people forget is to bleed the master cyl and also to close the bleeder valve BEFORE you reach the end of the lever travel. Basically you want to close it as fluid is coming out of the valve still. If you want until the lever stops and then close it no matter what some air will back up in there. So close it as fluid is coming out of the bleeder.

Also what helps is taking the clear tube that you attached to the bleeder and looping it in a circle like you're about to tie a knot in it. make the circle small and close the bleeder. Then the fluid has to go around the circle before it exits the tube. However, if you don't close the bleeder valve in time it's not a huge deal because once air goes around the circle it won't come back as air won't go backwards around the circle :) it will always stop at the top of the loop.


Also tap your lines a bit and calipers as it can help move any air that may be trapped on a sidewall, etc.

It's a slow process, but a good bleed is the most important part of getting good braking :fact

I don't have a speed-bleeder.. I've got a rag that I'm catching the brake fluid on as I bleed the line.
 

·
R6 Junkie
Joined
·
2,534 Posts
there is your problem....whether you're doing rear or front.

keep it closed while pumping the brakes until it gets stiffer and stiffer. once it gets stiff, keep pushing the brake (rear) or holding the brake (front) by squeezing it. While squeezing open valve to bleed and release air/air bubbles in your lines. Close valve while still squeezing brakes (should be all the way compressed now due to opening valve). After valve is all the way closed release brake and do it all over again.
This and repeat and repeat and repeat.......you get the ideal, pump the heck out of them even if it doesnt feel like its doing anything then hold the lever down and crack bleeder and shut back real fast. Repeat.
 

·
iRun
Joined
·
33,317 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·

·
Riding his own ride...
Joined
·
4,639 Posts
You don't need speedbleeders. Nothing I mentioned required them. Just go to any auto store and get clear tubing to bleed the brakes. I wouldn't recommend a rag because you can't bleed the brakes properly by catching it with a rag imo. You'll spend more time trying not to get fluid on your paint, brake pads, etc. Also brake fluid eats nearly anything so make sure you don't get any on ANYTHING. This is why a clear tube that just barely fits over the bleeder nipple is the best way to do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,333 Posts
The thing most people forget is to bleed the master cyl and also to close the bleeder valve BEFORE you reach the end of the lever travel.
Exactly right about closing the valve before the pressure stops.

I also went on the assumption that pickpocket was bleeding the MC as well. :dunce:

I don't have a speed-bleeder.. I've got a rag that I'm catching the brake fluid on as I bleed the line.
LOL I'd love to see this. At least try to catch it in a can or something! Brake fluid is horrible on painted/finished surfaces. Not to mention it's not something you really want on your skin either.

Every time I bleed my brakes I probably flush out a good 8oz or more from each caliper or MC.. No way a rag could handle that!


Let us know how it goes.. I think you inspired me to finally install my new pads and bleed out the whole system :)
 

·
Riding his own ride...
Joined
·
4,639 Posts
If you get fluid on anything or the rag touches anything wash it with water immediately or you'll find the paint is gone before too long. Trust me. I had a damn bleeder crack on my rear master cyl at random and 4 drops of fluid got on my marchesini's. I didn't know I had a cracked bleeder until someone told me about the fluid. Yup...it sucks, but screw it i got them for performance and not looks lol. Just clean ANYTHING brake fluid touches with lots of water.

A hose is really needed to bleed the brakes though. One that just barely fits over the bleeder nipple. Any auto store will have it.
 

·
iRun
Joined
·
33,317 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I really don't know a better way to explain it. I remember you saying you screwed the lid back on the reservoir. Don't do that. Keep it off and keep refilling when the fluid is getting low.
So the cap should stay off while I'm bleeding the lines. Check.

Exactly right about closing the valve before the pressure stops.

I also went on the assumption that pickpocket was bleeding the MC as well. :dunce:



LOL I'd love to see this. At least try to catch it in a can or something! Brake fluid is horrible on painted/finished surfaces. Not to mention it's not something you really want on your skin either.

Every time I bleed my brakes I probably flush out a good 8oz or more from each caliper or MC.. No way a rag could handle that!


Let us know how it goes.. I think you inspired me to finally install my new pads and bleed out the whole system :)
I bled the FRONT master cylinder but I can't find a bleeder valve for the REAR master cylinder..

If you get fluid on anything or the rag touches anything wash it with water immediately or you'll find the paint is gone before too long. Trust me. I had a damn bleeder crack on my rear master cyl at random and 4 drops of fluid got on my marchesini's. I didn't know I had a cracked bleeder until someone told me about the fluid. Yup...it sucks, but screw it i got them for performance and not looks lol. Just clean ANYTHING brake fluid touches with lots of water.

A hose is really needed to bleed the brakes though. One that just barely fits over the bleeder nipple. Any auto store will have it.
I did the front just fine without a hose, but I've been very very careful about what gets touched by brake fluid.
 

·
Riding his own ride...
Joined
·
4,639 Posts
If at any point the reservoir runs dry or below the low line there is a chance you'll get air in from the reservoir and then basically you have to start over. Just a heads up. It's critical that doesn't run out of fluid or get low enough to suck air in. I always do it with two people. One person just topping off the fluid and making sure it doesn't run low while I bleed the brakes.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top