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Hey guys I am seeking a little info on what you think I should upgrade 1st to make me faster down the drag strip... I have a 2007 R6S

Thanks,
Rob
 

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Drag Racer
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186 Posts
Lower it and strap it... exentions... very cheap mods... very effective...
 

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I have an 07' R6S also and tryin to drag it. Haven't brought it to the strip yet...kinda broke right now and can't afford the leathers :( I have a BMC racing air filter..5.5" extension...lowered 2.5" front 2.75" in back....yoshi trs slip-on...and a PCIII w/ an 04' fuel map...lol. Can't wait to go!! She definetly wants to go faster then the speed limit....and fast! i'll let u kno what i run soon hopefully...lemme see what ur bike looks like! Ride Safe!!!! :toocool:
 

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Are you starting the whole drag racing scene from scratch also??? If so the biggest thing you need to work on to improve you time isn't really a mod at all it's your starts! You could drop over an entire second with the same exact bike between someone who knows how to launch compared to someone who doesn't practice that, get consistent, figure out the numbers your running, then start modding the bike. Although if this is something you are already good at disregard everything i just said. :mrgreen:
 

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The first thing you need to get (if you dont already have it) is good safety gear. You can still kill yourself on a stock bike.
With that said... Nitrous for these bikes is really cheap! If you go with an air filter or exhaust, you will need a PCIII.
 

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I can help you here... I have a dedicated 05 Kawi 636 drag bike that is running in the very low 10s now, with a 9 right around the corner.

The first (and cheapest) thing you should do is learn how to drag. I know you know the process, but make sure you have the correct body position, technique, know your shift points, making sure you are running straight down the track (no weaving), all that stuff. There is a lot of time to be shaved in technique alone, trust me.

The second thing you should do is lose weight anywhere you can. Reducing weight is cheap hp. Take out the tool kit, run with the bare minimum amount of gas, take off the passenger pegs, blinkers, horn, smog equipment, etc. This is all free. You can figure that 6-8lbs removed from the bike is about equivalent to 1 hp.

The third thing you should do is get a lowering link (I recommend the Naarden threaded adjustable link at Tobefast.com) and get a lowering strap. Those two things alone should give you much better 60' times and reduce the tendancy to wheelie. This should be in the $200 dollar range for both components, at most.

The next cheapest mod would be to run race gas. I am a very big fan of VP Racing Ultimate 4.2 fuel. Its about $14.00 a gallon here in california, but being that it adds 5-7% more horsepower than pump gas, its a bargain.

After that, the next best bang for your buck would be to change your gearing, likely to the tune of -1 front sprocket and +1, +2, or +3 rear sprocket. I keep all three (and even a +4) just in case. The trick here is to cross the stripe at redline in 6th gear, so you want to find which sprocket combo will do that, as that will be your best acceleration. If you go too low, you will redline before the stripe, costing yourself time and mile per hour. Mile per hour is king in drag racing. You may also want to consider going to a lighter 520 chain conversion if you have not already. This would also be the time to throw on some extensions if you have the cash. You can expect to spend around $200 for the 520 conversion with the sprockets if you stay stock length. With extensions (roaring toyz and diamond powersports make them for around $300) you can expect to spend probably closer to $250-300 for the chain and sprockets, as you will need a longer chain, probably around 140 links. You will also need a longer rear brake line, around $100 at most. So extended, you can expect to spend $500-600, but this and lowering will get you deep into the 10s with some good mile per hour, at least 130 or so.

An air shifter is a very good way to reduce your shifting times, even if you are already clutchless shifting. An airshifter like the MPS I run can be had for about $300 and if you can put on a power commander, you can likely put on an air shifter. You will likely have to fabricate a mount, but thats not too hard. Those interested in this, I have had some experience with setup gremlins, so hit me up on a PM for some pointers on how to do it or it will be a long season...

Once you have done this stuff, it starts to get more expensive. I would suggest an air filter (BMC is awesome), full exhaust (preferably in titanium for those weight savings), and a custom mapped power commander 3 (or bazzazz, but I have not experience with those).

Another good way to make your bike faster (but no longer street legal) is to change to race fairings. This loses a lot of the weight in the lights, fairings, etc.

Yet another thing that I noticed a couple tenths drop from was a wheel swap to lightweight forged aluminum wheels (look sick, lose weight). this is a spendy proposition, but worth it. While you're at it, throw on a metzeler racetec, or better yet, a metzeler dragtec tire for super sticky, no slip traction with straighter launches.

Beyond these mods, you will start having to do the fun stuff like bigbore, engine blueprinting, and head work. For this I recommend you talk to KWS motorsports. They make some awesome motors come together. Be prepared to spend. This is my next step at the end of the season, along with hardened, back cut gears in the tranny.

Notice that I did not mention the use of nitrous oxide. I am not a fan of nitrous, I prefer all motor. Also, I have had friends that have tried nitrous with mixed results. Some like it, but they have lots of money to rebuild their motors. Some have had bad luck with breaking parts and cooking motors. Either way, I am not looking to go to nitrous, but there are some folks in Florida on Kawi 636s having good luck. One guy is even running down deep in the 9s, like 9.20 something if I remember correctly.

So yeah, I spend a lot of time (and money) at the drag strip. Put it this way, I have spent nearly as much upgrading my kawi as I did buying it, and I can (and will be) spend plenty more.
 
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