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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was thinking about getting my swingarm powder coated but am now finding out their are additional things to consider - all rubber seals have to be removed and replaced.

Do the bearings have to be removed and replaced as well?

I think I may have to opt for paint or polish due to the extra costs associated with powder coating.

What has your experience been?
 

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Official Noob Greeter
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powdercoat will be the most durable and you'll need to remove the bearings too.
 

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polish or chrome looks like ass unless the frame matches. Have fun getting & installing the new needle bearings...lol. A good coater should have caps for those areas & any threaded bosses, that can survive the blast process. I would be sure you get all the grease out before p/c'ing because that blast media will get everywhere!

I prefer paint because PC sucks when you have bare areas that dont get covered. Paint is easy to touch up.
 

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If you are PCing it for looks or fixing a scratched up swing arm, just get carbon fiber covers and call it a day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No one has mentioned it yet. Care to elaborate why this is such a dumb idea? Always Mr positive aren't ya.... :rolleyes:
Thank you. You noticed that as well. Mr Richard Head is full of positive and useful insight in all off his responses on this site. He prides himself on being a smart ass. He truly is an impressive individual.

As far richard referring to me as being a "fool" lmao - well that doesn't ev warrant a response.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you are PCing it for looks or fixing a scratched up swing arm, just get carbon fiber covers and call it a day.
The existing arm it's scratched and scrapped to hell. If the powder coating just proves to be more expensive and troublesome than ours worth then I will go the painting route.the Dunham I bought off of ebay it's pretty much flawless from a gouge and scrape perspective so it will bee a good candidate for painting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
polish or chrome looks like ass unless the frame matches. Have fun getting & installing the new needle bearings...lol. A good coater should have caps for those areas & any threaded bosses, that can survive the blast process. I would be sure you get all the grease out before p/c'ing because that blast media will get everywhere!

I prefer paint because PC sucks when you have bare areas that dont get covered. Paint is easy to touch up.
Yeah not looking forward to removing those bearings if the PC won't do it for me. Motion pro makes a tool ok believe to help with this process. Good point on the paint. Chrome definitely will never be an option :) I probably should have stated brushed instead of polished. I do have several other parts on the bike that are brushed. I will go with PC or paint once I hear from the powder coater.
 

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I powdercoat things that I handmake for a living. It's something I've been doing for a number of years. I work with powder and powdercoating suppliers and shops all the time. I'm not a powder salesman nor do I work for a powder company or shop. I have the devices I hand build powdercoated and have had to educate myself on the process over the years to make sure I have consistent looking products. I stock all of my own powders that I supply to the powder shops I use to assure a consistent look of the things I build. So there's the background.

That said, the media blasting will damage bearings or seals if they are not removed, yes, this is true. However, the heat required to set the powdered plastic that is sprayed on to the swingarm/frame/et al will completely SMOKE any seals and or bearings that cannot take AT LEAST 375f degrees for a minimum of 45 minutes+. So while media blasting issues can be worked around by using masking tape and so on (when it comes to protecting bearings, or machined surfaces or whatever) but there's no "tape" in the world that will protect them from the heat required to set the powder.

As far as durability goes, yea, sure, powder is tougher than paint. But you'll NEVER get any paint to properly match any color of powder, even gloss black powdercoating. So, if you ever scratch the powdered swingarm (everwhat) you will never get a paint match unless you have a custom paint mix done. So, as far as what I think about this type of thing, PAINT IT with a very good (and very available) paint such as Duplicolor. Duplicolor offers some excellent coatings (spray paints) that are easily matched in the event of a scratch. I've used Duplicolor coatings on wheels, frames, swingarms, and so on for years. Great stuff, easily obtained (many auto parts outlets carry it), and easy to use if you're anything like me and cannot paint a barn red with a can of red paint!

The other thing about powder is that should you ever decide to change colors or repaint the bike, anything powdered has to first be scorched with a propane torch (NOT NOT NOT an oxy-acet torch, far too focused heat at far to high temps) and then after scorching the powdercoating it then must be media blasted clean. All before any new coatings any be applied. So to recoat a PC'd frame that has previously been powdered, it costs TWICE AS MUCH due to the doubled labor of removal of the old and then application of new.

So, if you decide to go forward with the powdercoating, order and have bearings and seals IN YOUR HANDS before you remove the old stuff. Completely strip the swingarm of anything you do not want to have totally destroyed (such as seals, little holders/clips, bearings, decals). And "no" certain stickers or paint or whatever cannot be masked off and "powedercoated around". Remember, the process requires at least 375f degrees for at least 45 minutes. It says so right on the bottles of powder I have (I use powders from "Columbia" .. a powder supplier near my area). And dual or multi-color powdercoating is something that is not doable by most little local powder shops. And when you CAN find a shop to do multi color powder, you'd best just hand them your best credit card and just leave it there.

Lastly, powdercoating turns out no better than the pre-prep. So if the surface is marked with digs, gouges, deep scrapes, and so on, there is no "bondo" made for powdercoating so anything that needs to be filled in simply has to not be filled in.

OH! And also, it's quite thick. So there's a chance you'll need to ream out any holes that are sized to accept bearings or fitted seals after something has been powdercoated. Powdercoated frames typically will NOT accept their original fasteners/seats/seals/beairings without using actual reamers to properly re-size any fitted holes (or dog help you if a threaded hole got powdered over, get out the tap set! You may even have to heli-coil it). Drill bits won't do it, you'll need to use reamers, they're far more precise than drill bits. There's some holes that the powder guys cannot use plugs or that protective high temp masking tape to protect things. Just so you know.

That's about all I got.

(NOTE: I am not in any way neither professionally or personally connected to any powdercoating vendor or shop or any Duplicolor interests either. I may also be wrong about any of this, however I am willing to be corrected if that's the case. In the end I'm just another talking monkey with a computer.)
 

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And BTW (OP), there's nothing "stupid" about you asking the membership here about the ups and downs of powdercoating. There's also nothing "stupid" about wanting to powdercoat your swingarm either. It's a great idea for some folks and perhaps not as practical for others. But "stupid" isn't a word I would use to describe someone that wishes to powdercoat their swingarm.

"Stupid" is a word I would use to describe someone with anger issues that refuses to get help. :)

Anger does nothing but eat a hole in your heart.
 
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