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Discussion Starter #1
I play to install Audi style LED's at the bottom of my headlights and since it looks weird when the low beam is on I wanna do the following. I wanna use a on-off-on rocker switch, so that one of the ON's turns on the LED's and the other ON just keeps has the headlights on as normal. Off kills all lights. I suck at electrical stuff and all I know so far is that I should have to wires go from the battery do the switch, and the leds connected to the switch. But how do I connect the headlights to the switch so I can turn them on/off?

My guess is that I need to wire the headlight relay to the switch, but how exactly do I do that? Where do I find that wire and how exactly do I rewire it? Or is there an easier way? Thanks.
 

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Something to keep in mind, you don't want to be able to run your LEDs with the bike running on battery.

You say the DRL looks weird with low beam... I'm going to assume that this merely because low beam only runs the left lamp?

So your aim is to modify to allow manually switching off low beam... and when the low beam goes off, the DRLs come on?

I'm basing this from a second gen schematic. Third gen may be different.

Existing Components:
Headlamp Fuse
Rocker Switch 1 - Low Amp 12v
ECU
Relay 1 - Low Beam - Ground is switched by ECU
Relay 2 - High Beam - Rocker switch feeds 12v
Left Headlamp - Switched via Relay 1
Right Headlamp - Switched via Relay 2

You're adding three components:
Rocker Switch 2
Relay 3
DRL LED

Your ECU grounds the 12v coming through Relay 1, which activates the left headlamp.

The added components, specifically the Rocker Switch 2, will stand between the ECU and Relay 1, Relay 3. One side of the Rocker Switch 2, will allow the ECU to ground the 12v coming from Relay 1 (left headlamp) --OR-- the other side of the switch will ground the 12v coming from Relay 3 (DRL LED). It appears that Relay 2 slaves off of Relay 1. Flipping the high beam switch while Relay 3 is engaged, should have no impact.

If you want to be able to run both headlamps and DRL, then a different setup will be required.

Rather than assume, it is best to check into the power requirements for the DRL strips to ensure that they won't slowly cook your wiring or blow the fuse.
 

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Listen it's best if you look up some videos of people doing some basic electrical work if you arent familiar with cutting/splicing/running wires. 12v is super easy, and pretty much any 14ga or 16ga wire is all you need to run power to electrical components.

Im not sure if you have the diagram in front of you, but i took some time to look it over. There is a red/yellow wire that feeds your headlight relay. That is the wire you will need to tap into and run to your new on/off/on switch for your headlight power. All you will be doing is locating the red/yellow wire coming out of your fuse block and cutting it there somewhere. The wire coming out of the fuse block you wont need, but the rest of it going to the front of your bike[headlight relay] will be the length you need to extend to wherever you locate your new switch. Because you are powering your switch with a [hopefully] fused power wire from your battery, you no longer need to worry about the wire you left stranded coming from the fuse block.

For any splice you make i recommend using butt splices and shrink wrap. You must first cut the wire. Then with a pair of wire strippers, strip the insulation off the copper wire about 1/2inch. You will need wire crimpers to crimp [or squeeze] the butt splice to the cut/stripped end of the wire. If using shrink wrap, you will slide the shrink wrap over the butt splice you just crimped onto the wire. Shrink wrap for a butt splice needs a length of about 2 inches.

Once you do this prep your new 14ga or 16ga wire you will run to your on/off/on switch by stripping the end of it as described above. You will then crimp the other end of the butt connector to the new wire, finishing the splice. After this is done you slide the shrink wrap over centered on the butt splice, then use a heat source such as a lighter to shrink the shrink wrap. Careful not to melt the shrink wrap or wire insulation. You want to go all the way around the shrink wrap until it stops shrinking and is conformed around your butt splice.

I am trying to give you as much detail as i can because i dont know what you have and havent done. If you arent comfortable doing electrical work or cutting factory wiring that is perfectly fine, but i suggest taking the bike to someone who has the knowledge to get this done for you. There may be easier ways, or other suggestions people might have to get this done as well but this is how i have personally chosen to wire up my set up.
 

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Here is a picture from the 06' R6 service manual. You can see the red/yellow wire in the screenshot I took. It is coming from item #86 which is your headlight fuse. The then travels to your headlight relay, item #83. This is the wire you are needing to extend to your on/off/on switch to power your headlights in one of the on positions.
 

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Intuit i have been trying to help him via PM with this. Basically he is wanting his setup the way i have mine on my bike but substituting his audi lights for my blue halos.

I have an on/off/on switch that i have powered from my battery. There is no draw obviously as long as the switch is off, but you are right that it is not ideal if the switch is left on with the bike not running as this will drain your battery.

I have my led halos hooked up in an on position, and my headlight relay running off the other on position of the on/off/on switch. The switch is powered by a fused lead from the battery.

Being set up this way allows me to run my halos during the day, then at night flip the switxh to the other on position which cuts power to the halos and transfers the power to my headlight relay. Also allows me to still effectively use the headlight dimmer, or low beam high beam switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I appreciate your answers. PrepareForTakeOff: I have given up on dual low beams, I just wanna be able to turn of low beam and turn on LED's with the same switch. I feel ok about splicing and connecting the wires, what I struggle with is that English is not my first language so there are certain terms that I don't really know. Like what does tap into mean exactly?

So my biggest concern is the red/yellow headlight wire that you mentioned. I wasn't sure what to do with the part that gets left over coming out of the fuse block. But you said I can just leave it as it is? So then my next question is where is the fuse block?

Also, what exactly is a fused power wire?

Lastly, as long as I switch the button to OFF every time when I don't use the bike it won't drain the battery, correct?
 

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I appreciate your answers. PrepareForTakeOff: I have given up on dual low beams, I just wanna be able to turn of low beam and turn on LED's with the same switch. I feel ok about splicing and connecting the wires, what I struggle with is that English is not my first language so there are certain terms that I don't really know. Like what does tap into mean exactly?

So my biggest concern is the red/yellow headlight wire that you mentioned. I wasn't sure what to do with the part that gets left over coming out of the fuse block. But you said I can just leave it as it is? So then my next question is where is the fuse block?

Also, what exactly is a fused power wire?

Lastly, as long as I switch the button to OFF every time when I don't use the bike it won't drain the battery, correct?
I see. Tap into is just the term i used to describe splicing into that red/yellow wire.

When you cut into the red/yellow coming from your fuse block, the wire coming from the fuse block you wont need anymore. You can cut it to leave enough length to fold it over and then use electrical tape to tape the end of it to itself once folded over to effectively "terminate" that end of the wire.

A fused power wire is something you can pick up at an auto parts store or if you wish order online, but it is just a wire with a fuse built into it. I have attached a picture of a fused power wire, although you wont need that exact one. I used a 10amp inline fuse for mine.

The fuse block is located on the clutch side of your bike, below your air dam covers behind your mid fairing. I have attached a picture from the 06 R6 manual that shows its location on the bike. It is item #20.

As long as you turn the switch off when you are done riding, your battery will not drain due to the electrical work you have done.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you. So I thought that was called the fuse box but alright I got you. So from there there is a red/yellow cable coming out and I'll cut it there. For the headlight part, should it only be the red/yellow cable connected to one end of the switch, or a ground wire as well and is so, which one?

Last question before I think I got it, I will have two wires going from the battery to the middle of the switch, the red and black one. Do they both need to be fused power wires or only one of them?

I will draw up a little picture diagram for you guys to confirm later. Thanks again!
 

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You will only need to extend the red yellow wire. Dont worry about grounding it as its already grounded via factory wiring.

You will be bringing a fused power wire [red] from the battery. You can ground the switch anywhere on the frame of the bike if you bought a lighted switch. You dont need to run the ground wire [black] from the switch to the battery unless you absolutely want to. Anywhere on the frame should be fine.

I might draw you up a little diagram too just so you are clear.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Alright think I got it now thank you.

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Bandc-Marine-Rocker-Switch-Waterproof/dp/B00EBR0U5I/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=on+off+on+rocker+switch&qid=1559164740&s=gateway&sr=8-7[/ame]

Would this switch work fine?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Can I just use a plier and pull or would I risk ****ing something up? I'll post a diagram later just to make sure I got it right.
 

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Usually in my experience for something like that you have to use a flat head screwdriver small enough to get into the opening and use that while pulling on the wire back and forth to get it loose. But im not sure if you can do it on that fuse block. I would have to look at mine.
 

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https://youtu.be/S9xeg_3eREc


Hopefully that link works. The examples in this video are not specific to your current need of removing the wire from the fuse box, but i wanted to share it anyways to give you some insight on the different ways wires are "pinned" into connectors to hopefully steer you in the right direction. I havent found any posts of other r6 owners accomplishing what you are attemping to in regards to removing the wire from the fuse box, and i dont have mine to look at right now to assist you in any way. But maybe this video will lend some help.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Alright so I made up a little picture in paint haha. The only and hopefully the last thing that I wasn't sure about is does it matter to which side i connect the positive(red) and ground(black) cable onto the switch? Like is there there a side thats positive and one thats for ground and how would I know. Hope that makes sense.
 

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Your picture is wrong. See how on that switch there is one side with 4 pins instead of 3? That side there will be a pin and it should be marked as your ground pin.

As far as which side to connect things on, i will just pick a side and land all your connectiongs on that side. It really doesn't, or shouldn't, matter.
 
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