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The ground pin should be labeled with an image such as the one attached below.

There is going to be a pin that is in what i would call an odd position compared to the rest of them. This will almost always be the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Gotcha, so where does the ground from the LED's go? Just to any of the pins on that ON side? Like is the LED wires OK as they are on the diagram I made?
 

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Sorry, when you get your switch youll probably be able to see, but i didnt quite make myself clear.

There will be only 1 pin to ground your switch. You can run your led ground to anywhere on the frame, or back to that ground pin on your switch since you will have it grounded to the frame anyways.

All of your grounds need to be either to the frame, connected to the ground on your battery, or grounded at your switch as long as the switch has a ground to the frame. Does that make sense?
 

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The link you sent me to your switch has a picture [pic4] that shows what each pin is for. The middle pins have a plus [+] so those are positive, number 7 has a minus[-] so that will be your ground pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Alright now it should be right. Although the black wire going from the switch to the battery could also be connected to anywhere on the fram right.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks for taking your time to help I really appreciate it. I will see if I can get all the stuff I need before the weekend and I'll post the result.
 

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........... it is not ideal if the switch is left on with the bike not running as this will drain your battery..........................

Graphic representation of what I described...


Signal Wiring...
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AhsZJDCN8kMMgaQ1H71dKS5FtZZ8IA


Power Wiring...
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AhsZJDCN8kMMgaQ2mZeD80pVK1H6oQ


Signal + Power Wiring...
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AhsZJDCN8kMMgaQ3Dak8eLJXqIWedw


This is theoretical; untested. But this setup should leave it up to the ECU. As you can see, all that is done is to place a switch on the YW wire that connects the ECU and primary headlamp relay (1). That switch merely toggles the signal between the add-on DRL lighting versus stock lighting.
 

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Nice job intuit! That looks like that would be the ticket if you wish to have everything come on with the bike started, and that eliminates having to make sure the switch is turned off when you shut your bike off.

Nice diagram too. Very easy to read.

The way i set mine up, while i could have had my lights powered by the ignition, was so that i could intentionally have my halos on when parked or showing my bike if i wanted to. It just allowed me that option.

Ravager33 as you can clearly see the way i wired my lights is not the only way to do this. There are so many different ways and everyone does it different ways. Heck you could even wire in a transmitter to turn them on via a remote if you wanted.
 

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Yeah looks like a Kindergartner did it; was debating on whether or not to use crayon. Twice I've left my key in the ignition long enough to drain the battery and that was a enough for me to stick to automated de/activation only.
@Ravager33 - It just adds a relay. Your rocker switch in-turn signals the relay. The switch is only functional when the ECU allows the 12v running through it, to ground out.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I feel a bit embarrassed to say that I don't fully understand that diagram though.. Like which exact wires go where. But its ok don't let me waste more of your time haha
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Just out of curiosity. If I wanted to hook up my LED's to my signal connectors running light, would I have to do one LED strip for each side, or could I connect both LED's to one side?
 

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Re turn sig running lights, as long as your LEDs won't draw enough power to overload the stock wiring, could connect them both to the same side. But to save the cost of running thicker wires, stock wiring is typically engineered with little or no overhead. If you're running LEDs for the running lights themselves, then you need not worry about power draw, as they typically consume less power than the stock incandescent bulbs. (though this still depends on just how many LEDs you're adding on)

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I don't know that the manual will necessarily match your bike. But it identifies the signal wire as "YW", probably meaning Yellow wire with a White stripe. So that would be cut and both sides extended, to reach your add-on switch. So the switch would serve to interrupt the signal between stock relay and ECU. Another add-on wire would then be extended from the switch, to your add-on relay. So your switch would in effect, toggle the 12v between the stock relay, and add-on relay. That's all it does.

As far as your power, the manual identifies it as an "R/Y" wire, probably meaning Red wire with a Yellow stripe. That will power your add-on relay, which in-turn powers your add-on DRL.

(why one wire is listed with the slash and the other not, I don't know)
 

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There is 3M automotive grade double-sided tape that is typically purchased in bulk by body shops, but that is some stupidly expensive stuff.

Other than that possibility (without guarantee of success), my opinion is, a permanent mount must be devised; such as tucking the ends beneath the fairings and screwing them on.
 
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