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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How hard is the rotor /magneto to go bad ? cause i';ve replaced my entire charging system except the rotor/magneto and still not getting 14 volts at 5k rpm..
It is getting frustrating and I dont have any good mechanic guys around me.

PARTS i've replaced so far:
-battery (shorai)
-rectifier
-stator
-wire harness
Ive disconnected the stator coupler and the side , and put meter in ac volts , and was getting like 16-17 ac volts at idle , when i revved it up to 2k - was getting 26 ac volts

I already did the resistance test for the stator and was getting 1.2-1.0 across all 3 pins ..
my rectifier is okay , as i did a test on it , even tho it is brand new .i get 13.1 volts at KEY on
5k rev only shoots up to 13.2 -13.3

how can i test if the magneto /rotor is good ?or visual signs of a bad rotor
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here is my discovery now, i plug my multi-meter leads to the output of the regulator (red and black wires coming out the reg.)
My radiator fans are hard-wired , so they come on when the bike is running , both of them .. I take out out the 15a fuse and i am getting the correct readings (14.1 volts @ 5k), if i take out both 15a rad fan fuses - i get 14.4 volts max ) if i rev past 5k it still tops off at 14.4 so my assumption is that my regulator is good. problem now is that i have to run my radiator fan, so what can i do ??? if i take out one of the 15amp fuses , it runs @14.1 @5k
 

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................. i';ve replaced my entire charging system except the rotor/magneto and still not getting 14 volts at 5k rpm..................
On the current battery, '08 R6S stays a rock solid 14v at nearly any RPM.
What problem are you looking to address?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i am not getting 14v at 5k with both radiator fans running.. or should i work around not having both fans running all the time .. the radiator fans come on when the key is in the ignition. I only get 14 volts when only one fan is running
 

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stop jerry rigging your fans. the shit is only supposed to be on when it needs to be on. the output of the stator is what it is and can't be changed.
 

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i am not getting 14v at 5k with both radiator fans running.. or should i work around not having both fans running all the time .. the radiator fans come on when the key is in the ignition. I only get 14 volts when only one fan is running
What voltage are you seeing with both fans running? What is your battery voltage? Also, what are you attempting to accomplish, or what issue(s) are you attempting to address by forcing both fans to run full time? Keep in mind that there may not be any issue at all. It's normal to have some change if there's either a heavy load on the system, low RPM, and/or are operating outside of normal operating temperatures. Are you running stock, or with other electrical changes? Be careful not to add load to wire harnesses that weren't designed to handle them; as this creates hidden shorts deep within the harness that you may never find.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What voltage are you seeing with both fans running? What is your battery voltage? Also, what are you attempting to accomplish, or what issue(s) are you attempting to address by forcing both fans to run full time? Keep in mind that there may not be any issue at all. It's normal to have some change if there's either a heavy load on the system, low RPM, and/or are operating outside of normal operating temperatures. Are you running stock, or with other electrical changes? Be careful not to add load to wire harnesses that weren't designed to handle them; as this creates hidden shorts deep within the harness that you may never find.
With both fans running 13.3-13.4 at 5k , sometimes goes to 13.5 -13.66 (thats the most ive seen it ) not getting the 14 volts with both fans running.
battery voltage is 13.1 volts .

.you may ask why i have both fans running , because my ecu does NOT send the signal to turn on the fans. i confirmed this by swapping my ecu with a friends r6. so that part of my ecu is shot. thats the reason why i have the fans on , when the bike is running..

-As you say , there might not be an issue, I plan to go somewhere very far next week and i dont wanna get stranded again..
 

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With both fans running 13.3-13.4 at 5k , sometimes goes to 13.5 -13.66 (thats the most ive seen it ) not getting the 14 volts with both fans running.
battery voltage is 13.1 volts .

.you may ask why i have both fans running , because my ecu does NOT send the signal to turn on the fans. i confirmed this by swapping my ecu with a friends r6. so that part of my ecu is shot. thats the reason why i have the fans on , when the bike is running..

-As you say , there might not be an issue, I plan to go somewhere very far next week and i dont wanna get stranded again..
13.1 is probably a reading just after shutoff; seems about 4% high. With both fans running you're likely at or near maximum load for that system. The 2nd Gen (you may have 3rd) R6 regulators are very low wattage. I believe those readings are normal. Those systems probably aren't designed to run at full load all the time. Doesn't mean it'll konk out, just means it have a much shorter MTBF interval. (much shorter life span)

Have you verified that the ECU is receiving a temperature reading? Have you simulated the voltage level (sensor input) to the appropriate lead on the ECU that would ordinarily trigger the ECU to throw ground (or 12v) to the fan relay(s)? Then again you said it behaves the same in another bike. So it probably is the ECU. It might be fun to investigate aftermarket options (designed for cars) available as a workaround. Of course it's simpler just to get another working ECU. (make sure it wasn't flashed)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The reason why i am afraid , i was told by a so-called mechanic it was my rectifier i bought a rectifier , only lasted 2 weeks then the bike left me stranded one night on a lonely road.I have since bought a new rectifier and stator and an entire wire harness. I just took it for a ride with only one radiator fan running (took out the fuse for the left rad. fan) i am getting 14.1-14.4 at 5k revs .. the other bike i believe had its ECU flashed ,, is their any way i can test if the ecu isnt actually sending a signal to turn on the rad. fan
 

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Li-Ion will hold a slightly different voltage level.

You said earlier that you're running your fans by "hard wired". By this I assume you're not triggering them via relay. FOr the following I'm going to ignore that you've swapped ECUs between bikes with no change.

Took a quick look at a circuit diagram in the 2nd Gen manual for my '08. (this may be different from yours) The ignition fuse (red/white wire) feeds 12v to the relay coil. The ECU is responsible for throwing ground (green/yellow wire) to that relay. In most circuit designs, the ECU automatically runs the fan when there's no coolant sensor input. I don't know that this does this but I'd back-probe the harness at the ECU and measure for ground. Diagnostic mode can be used to trigger the fan. The volt meter should start to read a strong connection to ground. You may find that the fan relay is bad, or there is a weak connection between that relay and the ECU; or there's a weak connection between that relay and the ignition fuse. "Voltage drop testing" is a tool for spotting bad connections. A straight-pin can be handy for getting a reading through wire insulation. (being careful not to stab self)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
already changed my fan relay ,
A wire runs from the green/yellow wire going into the ecu, the one that you mentioned above-- to the blue/white wire fuel pump relay. this was how i bought the bike. When ever the fuel pump primes , the fans cycle for like 5 secs then stop , when the bike starts the fans run.
I went into diag mode, and check d06 which is the stored temp from coolant sensor - currently reads 68c which is around correct, as i rode it for a while and it was cooling down..

also checked D51 is the radiator fan motor relay test , and got nothing -no reading whatsover. 0000
but the relay is brand new , ordered it from partzilla.com

So not sure what next to do or how i can bypass this issue
 

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If your ECU failed to run the fans in your friend's bike, then the ECU was probably damaged by the previous owner by shorting 12v directly to the ECU with no load. If your ECU did run the fan in your friend's bike, then it's still good and there's likely a weak connection to or/and from that relay coil. About a decade ago, had troubleshot a dual-fan system on a minivan, finding a weak connection between the relay coil and ECU; in addition to the relay being bad. The dumba** mechanic had both fans running off a single harness. Fortunately I noticed the jerryrigged non-sense before it completely burned up the main fan's wire harness. As mentioned prior, there could also be a weak 12v to the relay coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
its a new wiring harness that i installed on monday ..i'll be online all day working on it as we speak now. if anything else comes accross your mind i could try let me know or pm me.
or is their any way i could set up something that would bypass the signal coming from ecu .am looking at the green/ yellow wire , on the wiring diagram on the manual ,it goes to the fan relay socket
 

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Do you have 12v to the fan relay on the red/white wire? Does that reading perfectly match battery voltage when the ignition is on? (should go to zero volt with the ignition off)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
New problem now :(, the previous owner hooked up the rad. fan by running a wire from the green/yellow wire going into the ECU and to the blue/white wire going into the fuel pump relay , i was disconnecting and it accidentally touched the positive of the battery terminal . now my fuel pump doesnt prime , the bike will attempt to crank but wont start. neutral lgiht still shows . i checked all the fuses , main fuse 50am and the fuel injection fuse and other fuses, no blown fuses.. my dash doesnt show any f1 codes either .. just a horrible day.. not sure if the fuel pump relay went out or my ECU by touching that wire to the battery terminal(+)
 

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My diagram has a "blue/white" wire... and a "sky blue/white".

The blue/white feeds 12v to multiple components, including the starter cut-off module, starter switch, and ECU.

FAN CIRCUIT:
The sky-blue/white is sending 12v from an LED for the neutral light in the dash cluster (meter), through the starter cut-off module, and on to the neutral switch (which grounds out).

As mentioned prior, the green/yellow is sending 12v to the ECU. (ECU can throw ground when/if it wants.)

FAN CIRCUIT BYPASS:
You're saying the previous owner had green/yellow 12v from the fan relay (coil side) fed to the part of the starter cut-off module that feeds power to the neutral switch (which grounds out). So the effect of this setup is, the neutral switch would ground out the fan relay coil, instead of the ECU. I would probe AT the ECU green/yellow and confirm that it isn't throwing ground when it's supposed to.

FUEL PUMP:
The fuel pump has only a green/white (sensor or coil) and red/blue wire (motor) feeding it. The relay powering that red/blue is embedded in the starter cut-off module. That part of the module is powered via red wire from the injector fuse. Ignition on, I'd probe that red wire for 12v, then probe the red/blue for 12v. (note: 2nd Gen constantly runs fuel pump in diagnostic mode)

The green/white wire runs from the pump to the dash cluster; possibly for the fuel level warning light.

SHORTING GREEN/YELLOW TO BATTERY 12v:
One side goes through the fan relay coil, back to the starter cut-off module, where there's a diode. If that diode failed then the module will require replacement. The other end as you know, goes back to the ECU. With the ignition off, it would not have been attempting to throw ground. Provided the transistor held up to the high potential current from the battery, (which it likely did,) I don't see this causing an issue.

SHORTING SKY-BLUE/WHITE TO BATTERY 12v:
This goes back to the Neutral LED in the dash cluster (meter). LEDs are diodes. If it still works then it successfully blocked reverse current. The other side goes back to the starter cut-off module and then grounds-out at the neutral switch. Provided the diodes in that module held up to the high current, I don't see this causing an issue. If any of the diodes failed then the module needs to be replaced.

SHORTING BLUE/WHITE TO BATTERY 12v:
One end goes to the relay coil embedded in the starter motor. We know that still works so it's okay. Two ends go back to the starter cut-off module... a diode and a relay-switch within it. Another end goes to the ECU. This wire already appears to have 12v supplied via ignition fuse. Not sure what affect applying 12v here with the ignition off would've had.

BOTTOM LINE:
Finish disabling previous owner's changes. Worry about the fan once the starting issue is troubleshot/resolved. (one thing at a time) Perform the probing mentioned at the FUEL PUMP heading and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I cant thank you enough for taking the time out to write all that up. Its now 1am sunday , so as i soon as i get up i will take a look at the instructions you sent
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So far what I've discovered , i probed the 3x blue/white wires coming out the starter-cut off relay , and i am getting 12.8 volts .
nuetral/kickstand still works - diagnostics mode and going to D08 & D09 both confirm that my kickstand and nuetral switch works, both went off and on when triggered.

-DIAG mode and going to D50 which test the fuel injection system - i dont hear the fuel pump prime .

What is the purpose of the green and yellow wire coming from the ECU ?? that wire was connected to blue/yellow wire to run the fans
 
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