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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So basically ive had an issue with my starter cut off relays blowing out. I have my kickstand switch bypassed by connecting the two wires together and my clutch switch doesnt seem to work properly so i have it disconnected but that doesnt explain why my relay keeps blowing. Any ideas as to why this would keep happening?
 

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Which of the relays and/or diodes in the module are getting blown? Better that starting circuit cut-off relay than the ECU. Somewhere, someone has some wires shorted that has resulted with some part of that module receiving power where or when it shouldn't. Some of the lighting circuit relays also have diodes in their diagrams. You'll need to monitor power at each of the input/outputs. Starting from top-left and moving clockwise, Blue/White is via starter-relay coil. Red/Black is the handlebar Start Switch. Light-Blue/White is via neutral light activation on the dash. Red is via Fuel Injection Fuse. Green is feeding the ECU. (suspect ECU throws ground on Green to activate that relay) Red/Blue next to it is feeding 12v to the ECU. Blue/Black is feeding the kickstand switch, then to Ground. BLue/Yellow is 12v from Ignition switch. Light-blue is sending off to your transmission Neutral switch, then to Ground. Black/Yellow goes to Clutch Switch & ECU. Blue/Yellow is the handlebar Kill switch. Red/White is your turn-on for the primary lighting circuit relay; plays a role in deactivating the lighting circuit during crank.
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Crap wiring jobs by DIYers are not uncommon. It also seems to be common for people to use add-a-circuit type products to overload wiring harnesses, resulting with internal shorts.

The other less likely possibility is that your rectifier/regulator is severely over-volting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Which of the relays and/or diodes in the module are getting blown? Better that starting circuit cut-off relay than the ECU. Somewhere, someone has some wires shorted that has resulted with some part of that module receiving power where or when it shouldn't. Some of the lighting circuit relays also have diodes in their diagrams. You'll need to monitor power at each of the input/outputs. Starting from top-left and moving clockwise, Blue/White is via starter-relay coil. Red/Black is the handlebar Start Switch. Light-Blue/White is via neutral light activation on the dash. Red is via Fuel Injection Fuse. Green is feeding the ECU. (suspect ECU throws ground on Green to activate that relay) Red/Blue next to it is feeding 12v to the ECU. Blue/Black is feeding the kickstand switch, then to Ground. BLue/Yellow is 12v from Ignition switch. Light-blue is sending off to your transmission Neutral switch, then to Ground. Black/Yellow goes to Clutch Switch & ECU. Blue/Yellow is the handlebar Kill switch. Red/White is your turn-on for the primary lighting circuit relay; plays a role in deactivating the lighting circuit during crank.
View attachment 377703
Crap wiring jobs by DIYers are not uncommon. It also seems to be common for people to use add-a-circuit type products to overload wiring harnesses, resulting with internal shorts.

The other less likely possibility is that your rectifier/regulator is severely over-volting.
Ok ill check it out. The guy that owned the bike before me completely molested the wiring and ive done my best to try and fix it but problems keep arising. He did mount two external lights above the front tire which i guess could possibly cause an issue that I havnt checked out yet. The added lights are connected to the high beams but im not sure if that would blow the starting cut off relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Which of the relays and/or diodes in the module are getting blown? Better that starting circuit cut-off relay than the ECU. Somewhere, someone has some wires shorted that has resulted with some part of that module receiving power where or when it shouldn't. Some of the lighting circuit relays also have diodes in their diagrams. You'll need to monitor power at each of the input/outputs. Starting from top-left and moving clockwise, Blue/White is via starter-relay coil. Red/Black is the handlebar Start Switch. Light-Blue/White is via neutral light activation on the dash. Red is via Fuel Injection Fuse. Green is feeding the ECU. (suspect ECU throws ground on Green to activate that relay) Red/Blue next to it is feeding 12v to the ECU. Blue/Black is feeding the kickstand switch, then to Ground. BLue/Yellow is 12v from Ignition switch. Light-blue is sending off to your transmission Neutral switch, then to Ground. Black/Yellow goes to Clutch Switch & ECU. Blue/Yellow is the handlebar Kill switch. Red/White is your turn-on for the primary lighting circuit relay; plays a role in deactivating the lighting circuit during crank.
View attachment 377703
Crap wiring jobs by DIYers are not uncommon. It also seems to be common for people to use add-a-circuit type products to overload wiring harnesses, resulting with internal shorts.

The other less likely possibility is that your rectifier/regulator is severely over-volting.
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are you able to pinpoint anything specific here? The two diodes to the right of the left most diode were the blown diodes
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Interesting! Which wire connects to the lead that feeds that diode?
Something else worth checking for: Ok? Pass track tech?
It looks like theres some burning on the two pins that are the green and the black and blue wire on the bottom which might lead to those diodes. Im not sure why the sidestand switch would be doing that because I bypassed it which is a fairly simple thing to do unless I somehow did it wrong.
 

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When stating wire colors, the dominant color goes first. So it would be Blue/Black rather than Black/Blue.

I think I neglected to confirmed your model/year.

You mentioned that the clutch switch doesn't work. Does your Kill switch and neutral light function? Does it only crank in neutral or will it attempt to crank in-gear as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
When stating wire colors, the dominant color goes first. So it would be Blue/Black rather than Black/Blue.

I think I neglected to confirmed your model/year.

You mentioned that the clutch switch doesn't work. Does your Kill switch and neutral light function? Does it only crank in neutral or will it attempt to crank in-gear as well?
2009 R6S, Neutral light does work but will only start in neutral, kill switch does work. The clutch switch seemed to be causing problems so I unhooked the wires from the clutch switch and it seemed to let me ride the bike without any problems and i wouldnt think that it would be popping the relay since it isnt hooked up.
 

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Light Green Wire = ECU (probably throws ground on this wire)
Blue/Black Wire = Kickstand switch

Can you continuity-test between those blown diodes and the associated pin on the module? That will verify that it belongs there.

Test for battery voltage on blue/yellow then voltage-drop test power from red to blue/yellow at the ignition.

What blows a diode is too much power from either direction... which doesn't make sense because outside the ECU, I would think that the power should be the same 12v, regardless of the circuit. But maybe only low-current power is expected on the other side of the relay and they're only rated for that?

Are you getting over-voltage from the regulator? Bad grounding between regulator and battery might cause that.
 
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