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Discussion Starter #1
To start off, I sold an 07 R6r and got a 2008 with 4,500 miles. This bike sat in a garage for 4 years without being turned on. Last time it was used, it ran fine, never had an issue(used to be my brother’s bike). Needed fresh fluids and a battery which I’ve done already.

Bike ran good around the neighborhood till I did a 20 minute ride on the fwy. Getting home, it turned off on me...check engine light came on along with code 46.

I’ve done ALOT of research on multiple forums/YouTube, even went to a motorcycle shop to get a second opinion. Going through all the testing of the stator and rectifier, they come back with positive tests, including the new battery, BUT the charging system still doesn’t read when doing the multimeter to battery,5k rpm test. Of course the shop said to replace the whole charging system. I call bs.
Now my question to you guys...what am I missing? All connectors look brand new with no signs of overheating wires. Am I over looking something?




Btw, I’m not a noob trying to yank your chains. I’ve been a member since 08, but had to make a new profile due to sign in problems. Thank you guys in advance!!
 

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Haha, ignore that man. He's on his 5 post hunt to view links. Some people just have an annoying way of going about it.

But yea I am not much help either.

What was your multimeter reading of the battery with bike off, at idle and at 5k rpm? I'm sure you already followed one, but there are some pretty good flowcharts online that will pinpoint charging issue.

Check your ground is clean too.

It might help others too if you posted your diagnostic results when testing stator and rectifier.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
What was your multimeter reading of the battery with bike off, at idle and at 5k rpm? I'm sure you already followed one, but there are some pretty good flowcharts online that will pinpoint charging issue.

Check your ground is clean too.

It might help others too if you posted your diagnostic results when testing stator and rectifier.
When the bike is off I get from 12.1-12.3 volts. At idle and 5k rpm...it doesn’t change.

The stator’s resistance tested at .4 ohms(my multi meter’s continuity was .3, so .3-.4=.1 ohms...right where it should be)Per manual, should be at .12-.18. I also did an A/C test while the bike was running and got good voltage all across.
The rectifier checked out good too with resistance open one way and also when flipping multimeter probes, it showed even readings.

I haven’t checked any grounds other than the battery...where should I start?

Are you reading anywhere near 14.2-14.4 volts when the bike is running/reved?
It’s not. Only voltage I get is what the battery is reading. Oh, btw...I’m using a battery tender to charge the battery to be able to turn on the bike for testing.
 

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12.1-12.3 seems kind of low for a brand new battery. But I know that is most likely a symptom of the issue and not the cause, just pointing it out.

The bikes main ground is under the tank beneath all the connectors that sit there. Just move them aside and you sill see it. I'd inspect all ground wires (specifically main ground wire to battery). A bad ground could make it very difficult for the battery to charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
12.1-12.3 seems kind of low for a brand new battery. But I know that is most likely a symptom of the issue and not the cause, just pointing it out.

The bikes main ground is under the tank beneath all the connectors that sit there. Just move them aside and you sill see it. I'd inspect all ground wires (specifically main ground wire to battery). A bad ground could make it very difficult for the battery to charge.
Thank you. I’ll give that a check.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Checked the ground wires, they are all really clean with no corrosion, nicely tighten.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So here is a new one...did a test ride after charging the battery. 3 minutes into riding, my low oil light comes on...then goes away as I’m trying to pull over. Keep riding, 10 min later, the bikes electronics go completely off, BUT the bike keeps on riding like normal!

Rode it back home like that since I couldn’t get the lights and speedometer back on after a few clutch jump starts.

Thoughts?
 

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Sounds like more than 1 problem. Definitely wiring for the lights etc. as tlfor the charging, the bike runs the battery dead as you ride correct?

I ask because its normal not to see charging voltage on a good battery.
Theres a better way to diag a charging system but requires 2 multimeters at the same time. Ine reading amps the other voltage. Going by voltage you only get half the picture. See if you can find a youtube video of this method. This is the test suzuki trains techs to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sounds like more than 1 problem. Definitely wiring for the lights etc. as tlfor the charging, the bike runs the battery dead as you ride correct?

I ask because its normal not to see charging voltage on a good battery.
Theres a better way to diag a charging system but requires 2 multimeters at the same time. Ine reading amps the other voltage. Going by voltage you only get half the picture. See if you can find a youtube video of this method. This is the test suzuki trains techs to do.
Yup. The battery drains the battery as I ride.

Thanks for the advice. I’ll borrow another multimeter and test. I’ll report back as soon as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So...I redid all the tests...everything checks out. Plugged everything back in and now the bike charges like it’s supposed to. Wtf? Something isn’t stable.

Can’t be the stator because it’s doing it’s job. Creating voltage with good ground/continuity tests.

Either it’s the rectifier or battery.

Rectifier tests were good (positive and negative probing)

Could it be an unstable battery causing the problem? Possible for new batteries to be defective? The brand is Caltric(generic), AGM type.
 

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Could be.

A simple check is to fully charge the battery then disconnect from bike and charger and let sit. Come back the next day and check the voltage. 12.6 is ideal. A brand new AGM battery will most likely read closer to 13V. Anything less and you probably have a bad cell.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Could be.

A simple check is to fully charge the battery then disconnect from bike and charger and let sit. Come back the next day and check the voltage. 12.6 is ideal. A brand new AGM battery will most likely read closer to 13V. Anything less and you probably have a bad cell.
Last time I was working on the bike was a week ago. Left it off the battery tender and checked it before I started anything. Funny you mentioned 12.6, because that is exactly where was at.

I forgot to mention...after unplugging/plugging everything, the idle was at 13.80-13.90...reved it up to 5k, got 14.23. Let to go back to idle, fluctuated 14.05-14.23.
 

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............after unplugging/plugging everything, the idle was at 13.80-13.90...reved it up to 5k, got 14.23. Let to go back to idle, fluctuated 14.05-14.23.
"Voltage drop testing" can spot bad connections.

Any theories as to which plug may have resolved the issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
"Voltage drop testing" can spot bad connections.

Any theories as to which plug may have resolved the issue?
Just looked up voltage drop testing and sounds like a good one to try.

I want to say the plug from the stator to the R/R. Hard to say since I pulled them all around the same time.
 
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