This post contains the instructions on how to install our bkmoto Mini H1 HID projector kit into your 2006 - 2012 Yamaha R6 headlights.
You may use this post as a support forum for installation questions as well, and i will try to answer any questions that may arise.
This install is not difficult at all, just follow these instructions.
I offer professional installation as well, you can send me in your headlight and i will install this kit, add any options you want like angel eyes, dual angle eyes, black out reflectors etc... and will return your headlight to you completely assembled and plug and play.
Installation starts at only $200 + any additional options you choose.
For more information about the kit or to purchase yours please see this post:
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150382
My website to order is:
http://www.bkmoto.com
This How-to is still work in progress, so i will be periodically adding new info.
* When i say Right or Left headlight its always from the point of view while sitting on the bike *
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Lets start with the angel eyes;
For single angel eyes set you will receive two 70mm rings and 2 inverters, you will need to glue the angel eyes to the projector shrouds, using clear Silicone.
For Dual angel eyes you will also receive two 95mm rings.
Remove shrouds from projectors, by unscrewing the screws from the rear of the projectors.
Fish wires through the gaps as shown,
very important you want the breaks in the angel eyes to be hidden, so for the right headlight place the wires to the right of the middle big hump on the shroud and for the left headlight to the left of the middle hump on the shroud. Find the hump which points up at 12 o'clock.
Now put an even amount of Silicone on the inner ring of the shroud.
press the ring into the silicone, tape it, and led it dry.
For dual angel eyes, place the 95mm ring over the shroud.
Apply silicone on the rear of the ring, all around the shroud on the extending humps of the shroud. tape in a few spots and let it dry.
Look at the open headlight, this is the angle you need to tape the angel eyes, so the wires and gaps will be hidden once the lens is on.
Put shrouds on the projectors and secure them with the supplied screws.
Now onto the projector install:
Preheat oven for 10 minutes to 225 F degrees.
Place headlight on a towel and put in center of oven with temperature set at 225 F degrees for 8 minutes.
put some gloves on, and remove headlight from oven.
Dont waste any time, and dont let the headlight cool down as the glue will harden again.
Using a few flat head screw drivers or a putty knife and a screw driver pry the headlight open.
You might need to reheat the headlight several times until the lens is removed.
Remove the reflectors by turning the three bolts on the rear of the headlight, turn each one 3 circles and go onto the next one, do not simply unscrew one completely and then unscrew the next, you need to work your way around little by little.
left reflector: Take off the stock cut off shield and bulb holders, by unscrewing the 4 screws marked below:
Cut of all 4 of these stock bulb holder posts using a Dremel or a saw.
Now you will need to cut off a hump which interferes with the projector body.
easiest method is using a Dremel.
Right reflector:
on the right reflector you will only need to shave off these two H7 bulb guides, as they are at the wrong angle on this reflector. as well as the 4 bulb holder posts:
thats it for trimming!
Now would be a good time to black out the reflectors if you choose to do so.
You will need the following:
* light sand paper
* plastic primer
* High temp matt black spray paint
lightly rough up the reflectors with sand paper, no need to remove all the chrome.
spray the primer, and let dry
spray paint, let dry, and spray one more coat, and let dry.
thats it.
Insert projectors into reflector light bulb holes.
Left reflector, place H7 adapter plate, insert projector through the plate, and tighten rear nut. The projector will be already properly aligned by the H7 adapter plate.
Right reflector, insert projector and secure with rear nut, only tighten by hand, as you will need to align the projector later.
You will need to cut off the the H7 plugs from the stock pigtails that connect to the light bulbs and take out the wires from the headlight.
insert reflectors back into the headlight housing, tighten the 3 rear bolts all the way in. Be careful not to over spin them as you will strip the delicate plastic inserts that the adjusters thread into.
Now you will need to power up the projectors and align them for the cut off to be completely horizontal. dont worry about how high or low they shine, you will adjust this using the 3 adjustment bolts on the rear of the headlight once the headlight is all assembled and back on the bike.
*Clean the H1 bulbs with the supplied alcohol pads.*
Place the headlight on a level surface, like a desk or table.
Or install the headlight back on the bike
bring your bikes battery, connect the supplied ballast test leads to the battery, insert H1 bulb into projectors and connect to ballasts.
Dont worry about the bulb holders, just hold the bulb by hand.
Your left projector is already level by the H7 adapter plate, so you only need to turn the right projector so the beam will match horizontally to the left projector.
**Do not connect ballast to test lead untill the bulb is also plugged into the ballast!!**
Connect the test lead to the ballast and shine the light onto a wall, make sure the wall is at least 6ft away.
Turn the projector by hand until light is completely horizontal, then disconnect the test lead from ballast, and tighten rear nut using locking pliers.
*** DO NOT CLAMP DOWN ON THE REAR NUT!! IT WILL BEND!. SIMPLY APPLY SOME PRESSURE USING THE PLIERS AND TURN UNTILL TIGHT AND THE PROJECTOR DOES NOT EASILY TURN BY HAND***
Now put the H1 bulb holders back on using the 3 screws on the back of the projectors.
You are now ready to put the lenses back on.
on 2006 - 2008 model bikes, make sure you adjust the reflectors as far back as possible, as you might crush the front halo when putting the lens back on if the projectors are to far forward.
Take extra caution to make sure your front halo will clear the lens at the top corner!
On 2009+ bikes, the headlights are deeper, but still look closely at the clearance.
put headlight lenses back on, press them in by hand, they will not go all the way in.
preheat oven at 225 F degrees for 10 minutes, put headlight on a towel and into the oven for 8 minutes.
remove from oven, and press the lenses in fully.
you might want to wrap the lenses with some painters tape real tight around the headlight assembly untill the glue hardens again.
ELECTRICAL:
Here is everything Labeled, should be pretty self explanatory.
In this photo the R6 pigtails are facing up with the openings in the connectors facing up.
1. Connect both White low beam + to Low beam + pigtail
2. Connect both Blue high beam + to high beam + pigtail
3. Connect both Halo red + to low beam + pigtail
4. Connect both Halo black - to low beam ground - pigtail
5. all other connections self explanatory.
that's it.
Here is how to wire using a simple on/off switch to turn off low beam HID's to have only halo's on, or to start the bike with hid's off to avoid stressing the battery
Dust cap drilling and fitting instructions:
First you will need to move the projector as far forward as possible, with the 3 adjustment screws on the back of the headlight.
Be very careful while turning the rear adjustment screws, you dont want to move it too much forward and crush the front halo ring against the lens,
so as you turn each adjustment screw, watch the front halo clearance very carefully.
leave at least 2mm of clearance from the front lens.
With the projector adjusted all the way forward you will be able to close the rear dust cap.
The fit will be tight, but it will fit.
First you will need to drill a 7/8" hole in the center of the dust caps:
Then insert the rubber grommet into the dust cap hole, it will be hard to squeeze it in, but it will fit.
Then fish all the other wires through the 2 other holes on the grommet, and close the dust cap.
leave a little play in the wires inside the cap, so when you turn the dust caps to close them you dont pull out the wires from the bulbs.