i picked up my 520 kit at motomummy.com and the difference in low end all depends on the gearing you choose. i as most people do went with -1 in the front and +2 in the rear and i think it gave the bike quite a bit more low end.

 

well a 520 conv. will help you out with the wheelies big time. The 520 will give ur a bike a kick in the ass in the first couple gears and drop off in the high end. Im 211 and i rode my frends r6 with a 1-/3+ and holy shit i almost fell off the damn thing! I didn't expect it to be that big a diff but yeah it is!!:YEA

 

You will notice a bit of difference but nothing drastic. Pull the clutch in if you want to wheelie that bad.

 

Well... I bought the r6 brand new.. Have about 1100 in it. I dont want a stunt bike, but when i decide to give it hell, i want that front end up in the air... Clutch or no clutch. Really thought about getting the r1, but the r6 is just so damn sexy. By the wAy, this the only complaint i have on the r6... I spend so much time with the bike, my GF is getting pissed of, and thats no joke!

 

Well... I bought the r6 brand new.. Have about 1100 in it. I dont want a stunt bike, but when i decide to give it hell, i want that front end up in the air... Clutch or no clutch. Really thought about getting the r1, but the r6 is just so damn sexy. By the wAy, this the only complaint i have on the r6... I spend so much time with the bike, my GF is getting pissed of, and thats no joke!

:lmao I love it. Welcome to the addiction. (If you didn't have a bike previously.)

 

dump her and get a girl who is into riding bikes!!!

 

The above post was correct. How big of a difference depends on your gearing. It's one of the most slight or most drastic things you can do to your bike but it all depends on what gearing you pick.

 

Ok, Well, like a i stated before, i need someone to point me in he right direction, where to get it, and what to buy. Do most R6 owners do this conversion? (street or race?) I have the Full TBR exhaust and Juice box Fuel control system. Will changing the gearing affect my mapping or does it have nothing to do with it? I know it will effect my speedo, but I dont care about that. 2 speeding tickets in 2 months is starting to tell me how this whole R6 thing is going to work out...

 

How much is the top speed affected with the -1/+2 gearing?

 

gearing will not affect your mapping at all. Yes most sportbike owners do a gearing change at some point and most like it. The most common with a 600cc bike is a -1/+2 gearing change. It gives a good gain on the bottom end and you don't lose all that much on the top. Also with a new bike you can run a -1 front 525 sprocket for like 30 dollars and still get a good gain w/o losing hardly any top end.

Nobody can really give you an idea of what to get until you tell us what you're after. Are you into wheelies, do you commute and want to keep the rpm's lower on the freeway, Do you want a little gain on the bottom end w/o any top speed loss, or do you want a nice kick in the butt down low and are okay with a 10mph loss on the top end or what not? No gearing is perfect for everyone. You need to get the gearing based on how you ride and what you want.

If you want to discuss it give us a call.

 

GREAT! This is what I want. Don't mind loosing 10-15mph on the top end. I want a kick in the ass in 1st & 2nd. I want that front end to come up with no effort at around 9000-10,000 RPM. I ride for fun, no commute. Just pissin off the cops...thats my goal. Just tell me what to order, and its done. I know you all know what your talking about, sure as hell has been so far....

 

if you have all that done to your bike and you cant wheelie in first gear, you arent twisting the throttle all the way or you have a problem. are you sitting over the gas tank(leaned forward)? if so, thats adding weight to the front and making it tougher to bring up.

if you want something that will wheelie on command for a true fatass(300+ lbs lol), go one down in the front, and 6 up in the back. that will REALLY bring it up easy, but you will lose top speed. the more you go down in the front/up in the back, the easier it will be to get the front end to lift. but at the same time, in making it easier to bring up, you are losing top speed. this is why most get the -1/+2. the bike probably cant even get to redline anyway, so this gearing makes it essentially go slower at redline, but give it more grunt by making it a lower gear ratio. however, with the -1/+2, you may barely lose any top end since the bike will be able to climb higher in the rev range.

as for where to order, i have no clue

 

If you want a good kick in the pants and still very very streetable that would be -1/+2 if you want it to be very easy to wheelie and don't mind losing a it more top end and having it rev 1000 through 1500 rpms more then maybe look at -1/+3 or -1/+4. I would always recommend staying on the conservative side though if you've never done a gearing change before.

 

bone stock...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FsDSAFommQ

and i think you just need to work on body positioning. i can bring mine up on power easily in first(its an 03), and i weigh about 200. my gearing is a weird one...-1/-1

also, if you REALLY want it to jump up, use the clutch. i have scared the piss out of myself more than enough times trying to wheelie off the clutch because of how fast it comes up

and trust me...if i can get my dads 150cc chinese scooter to wheelie with some effort, you can get your r6 to wheelie lol

 

So -1 On the front sprocket & +2 on rear?? This is normal. What is stock?(i know stupid question) I want to order my new setup tonight... Thanks guys, you have been a lot of help!!

 

stock is 16 front 45 rear. your going to want to go 15 front 47 rear if your going with -1 +2

 

the difference it doees make is so huge that it requires two e's in the word does :fact

 

jesus christ when did "520 conversion" become standard -1/+2 gearing?

520 conversion means you're changing the pitch (width) of the chain, less rotating mass. it does not mean you are changing gearing.

edit: forgot to answer the question...

it will make a difference, for the street though i would just rather keep the bike in the powerband than spend the extra money on misc gearing that i dont need.

however, i do have lots of gearing options available for tracks around the midwest. what people change the gearing for on the track is to reach just past the peak hp right before your braking point.

 

natedogg624 is right, the main reason for the 520 is less rotating mass, which means faster acceleration and deceleration. Of course on the street you can't tell that much of a difference, yet on the track that would be a couple of tenths off your lap time, which could be bike lengths at the end of the race. But if that is your main goal you would be better off getting lighter rims. However you said you want to be able to wheelie. First of all the -1 +2 will help you get it up, but if you can't get it up stock maybe you should practice that first. Im not saying you don't, but it sounds like you don't know how to power up. so just to cover all the bases, heres a quick lesson how. from a roll on in first gear accelerate rather quickly (about 75% throttle) when you hit about 9k (you might but shouldn't have to go higher) chop the throttle off hard and then full throttle asap. the key is to hit full throttle as soon as the front shocks are rebounding, this will "push" the front will off the ground. I've seen people do this on a stock 250. I also have a buddy who couldn't power up on a stock 600 and still couldn't after the conversion. My 05 came up fine stock, I have done the 520 -1+2, and it comes up with ease now. I did the conversion for more low end power so I could get faster acceleration. also I would recommend getting the bike dyno'd after the conversion. I did after about 500 miles with the conversion and I could tell a difference afterwards. also getting it dyno'd will show you where your powerbands are, I have 2, a sharp just at 4k and another at 9k (this is the reason I said 9k for the powerup). if you know where your powerband is wheelies will be much easier. either way I personally think you will love the conversion. good luck and ride safe

Ps. don't plan on going over 130-140 and do plan on getting slightly less gas milage in town and terrible gas milage on the freeway (if you do 90+ like I do every time I get on it)

 

Are you serious dcb9?!!! So if I can't go past 130-140 than I wont be getting the -1+2 conversion then. That sucks I thought I would only lose like 10mph top end not like 20-30

 

Rly?????????

 

I beleive your still only loosing 10mph with "520". What is the TRUE top speed of a stock 06-09 R6 anyway. Everyone knows the speedo is off. Mine is off by 13mph at times acording to my GPS.

 

with a -1/+2 on a 600cc bike you'll only lose 5-10mph off your top end. It's very little because the 600cc isn't gear limited but hp and by moving your rpms to a place where you get a little more power it actually helps the 600cc bike push through the wind resistance. So you don't lose very much mph at all on a 600cc bike. In fact a guy on a gsxr 600 showed via gps that he didn't lose any mph, but he was at a higher rpm in 6th gear at the same speed.

 

I don't know about "true" speed of the bike because I don't use a GPS. However, stock the speedo tops out at 168, after the -1 +2 it topped out at 154. Keep in mind after the conversion the speedo was way off, using a friends car speedo as a reference 50 in his car mine was reading 60 and 85 in his car mine was reading 102. both times I held top speed for around 30 seconds (I live 8 miles from a 5 mile interstate straight). after the conversion my buddies left me when we went to top out the bikes. But my question is why? why is 130-140 not enough? when do you have a NEED to go over 140? I have Never been on a ride where I needed to break 140, only on the interstate should you ever pass that and if you are doing interstate riding get a busa or a liter bike!!!

 

However, stock the speedo tops out at 168, after the -1 +2 it topped out at 154.

im confused by what you are saying. are you saying the speedo only went to 154 after the conversion? if so, are you sure you were in 6th? after doing the -1/+2, the speedo should read higher. that would mean that maybe at 168 indicated, you were only doing 150.

just for reference, i have -1/-1 and my speedo error is 10.1% off. that doesnt say how far off yours will be, but considering you guys typically have 3 extra teeth in the back that i dont have, i would expect it to be a fair bit higher. probably somewhere around 17% or so.

math:

mine is 4.43% lower gearing than stock. so that means that my factory error and my gearing error brings it to 10.1% combined. i THINK that means the factory error is roughly 5.43%

the math i used is as follows:

percent in gear change = (new gear ratio) / (old gear ratio)

EXAMPLE: (50/15) / (48/16) = (3.333) / (3.000) = 1.111

the 1.111 is the total...so subtract 1(which would be 100%), and that leaves you with 0.111, which is equal to 11.1% gear change

END EXAMPLE

FORMULA:

(factory error) X (percentage in gear change) = TOTAL ERROR

(factory error) X (1.0443) = (1.101)

(factory error) = (1.101) / (1.0443)

(factory error) = 1.0543

Subtract the 1 from the factory error and that is the percent.

on a 2nd gen, the error over stock for a -1/+2 is 11.1%, plus you need to factor in the factory error.

using the above math, that means that the speedo should be about 17.1% off

using factory error from above...

(1.0543) X (1.111) = 1.171

subtract the one = 0.171 = 17.1%

on a 3rd gen, the error over stock for a -1/+2 is 10.2% and then the factory error has to be figured in. if someone gives me an accurate total error with their -1/+2, i will do the math for that too. if you want to do it on your own or with a different gear ratio, the formula is all there

 

:stupic
when i first heard it would take off my top end i was hesitant at first until logic slapped me around a bit and i realized how often i would need to be at 140+mps vs how often I would enjoy quicker acceleration. After that epiphany I ordered the conversion and have not had one regret since. I would not care if it topped out at 115 to be honest I care more about being "quick" and acceleration that top speed. If i just wanted top speed ide ride a busa

 

dcb9 it would be easier to reach 168 indicated and go beyond that with a gearing change that isn't corrected. As stated by jebova something is wrong with how you calculated that as the speedo should reach 168 much easier with an uncorrected speedo and gearing change. Also with an R6 you shouldn't lose nearly 20mph off your top end with a -1/+2.

 

why the **** are you guys going 160 on the streets, get to the track n00bs

 

I never "calculated" my top speed. I simply stated what my speedo read before and after. and yes I was in 6th. and like jebova said, its a percentage, 10% off at 10 mph is way different the 10% off at 150 mph, makes perfect sense, and I'm not disagreeing with you, following that logic after the conversion my speedo should read almost 200 when topped out. again I am simply stating what MY speedo actually read. doesn't mean its right, and doesn't mean its not broken.

PS. how did this thread move from I want to be able to wheelie to top speed, didn't we already establish that if top speed is an issue you should buy a bigger bike?

 

natedogg. I did this 4 years ago when I was a little younger and immature. I now realize that the street in no place for these speeds. as for the rest of these people, I can't speak for them. I'm also confused on why top speed is such an issue. why did you get a 600? 600s where built for the twistys, they are light and agile, busas where built for speed and are heavy so they don't move around as much at high speeds, and if you want a mix get a liter bike.

 

I am glad its only about a 10mph loss!:toocool: I think this will be my next mod.




Its not just about twisties. I wanted a fast and agile bike thats why I got a 600. Maybe you should have purchased a Ninja 250 instead, since you seem so negative of opening up the throttle on a 600.:lmao