Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner

Idle problems?

7.8K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  Labelworkshop75  
#1 ·
I did my research on here for idle issue but mostly the searches ended up at r6s models. I have an 07 r6r/ r6v. No mods on the bike. Spark plugs were changed about ~2000 miles ago. I rode the bike to work and everything was fine. As I was going home coming up at a red light I felt the bike a little hesitant. When I completely stopped the bike started to idle rough. Shortly after that when the idle would jump I would hear a clanking sound. I took off the red light normal, more or less <3000 RPM I felt the bike hesitate like it was running out of gas. I saw my headlights dim a bit also. After 3000 RPM everything is fine, no jumpy idle and lights return to normal. This happened every red light on the way home. I also did a YouTube video to see if you guys can help me out. The check engine light is from the removal of the EXUP valve and I haven't gotten an EXUP eliminator. Thanks for looking.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbuPu46MUTw


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle
 
#2 ·
U got oil in the motor?
 
#7 ·
I believe the battery is the stock battery since I bought the bike( had 10k when I bought it, now has 21k). I'm going to be checking out to see if it's the battery. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks for the help
 
#6 ·
Battery bro, start simple then work your way up to more complicated stuff. Your battery is dying. Get a new battery, that is all, everything else is fine with your bike.
 
#9 ·
easy way to check if it's the battery is throw a volt meter in your pocket. when it stalls, pull over and test the voltage. you should be around 12 iirc.

other than that, i'd recommend you clean or change your air filter (do it anyhow if you haven't)

and then clean, dont replace the tps. before you do this (it's a little tricky), give your idle a little tweak to the right.
 
#10 ·
Before I threw In the battery, I started up my bike to see if the problem was still happening. Cold the bike was fine but once it started to warm up (about 140 F) the idle started to jump again. I turned it off and threw in a new battery hoping it would fix the problem but when I cranked it back up the problem continued. What else can it be? I also noticed as the bike was on I disconnected one of the terminals by mistake and the bike died immediately (not like a car that it has an alternator) is this normal?
 
#11 ·
i have a problem with my 1999 r6...i have had issues when i start the bike and some times takes a while for engine to start and when it does no matter how much throttle i give it, it stays between 1200-1500 rpm but if i dont have atleast a quarter turn on throttle the bike dies..Any ideas???

Also i was coming home from work last week and over taking a car so i was obv accelerating and as i was going past my bike shot up about 2500 rpm but i carried on speeding up the same and bike didnt jolt or anythin..but as soon as i changed gear the bike was sluggish and struggling and when i got to lights it died...the only way to get home was to remove the breather pipe from the engine block that goes to the air box but obv pumping loads of smoke from the pipe...when i got home i had a look at bike and all pipe are clear but when i connect pipe back to air box the bike struggles and dies...it really baffling me and need help...so please help cause there a size 10 lining up my bike
 
#12 ·
So I have a new battery on the bike and it still has the same problem, could it be my rectifier? Or my stator? What symptoms do bad stator or rectifiers give? Help please I want to ride my bike tomorrow
 
#13 ·
Maybe a hose is kinked?
 
#14 ·
No hose is kinked. I check the coils cold and hot and they all came within spec. I also threw in a brand new K & N filter. I noticed the stuttering was reduced drastically until the bike got warmed up. It started to idle a bit rough and stutter coming off a red light at about <4000k rpm. What else can it be?
 
#15 ·
It could be the generator/stator or regulator/rectifier. Attach a voltmeter to the battery terminals and measure the voltage at idle and at revs below 4k and above 4k rom where you say it works. You should see between 12.5 and 14 volts. If the voltage is in this range above 4k rpm but significantly lower below, that would point to the stator. If the voltage is too high or too low everywhere, it could be the RR.

Im just guessing here, but you could go through the onboard diagnostics mode and verify throttle position sensor is still calibrated correctly. The procedure is described in the service manual, I believe.

For The problems you describe, I'd be looking at in this order,
- battery (known good at this point)
- generator,
- REgulator rectifier
-fuel pump
- throttle bodies and throttle position sensor
- ignition system, spark plugs, coil packs.
 
#16 ·
Battery is within specs (bike turned off,running and about 5k RPM)
Coils are within spec, cold and at running temp
Spark plugs have less than 2k miles
How would I test the generator? What should be the spec for the TPS sensor?
If anyone reads this and has a PDF manual for my bike please PM do I can check everything by the books. Thank you
 
#20 ·
This sounds like the problem I had on my 05, which ended up being 1 bad coil and 1 other at the limit of its tolerance. Replaced all four coils and haven't had an issue since.

I did see where you checked your coils. Did you test both the primary and secondary coils for each coil pack? If not, each has its own spec. I had to check mine hot to find the bad coil. If you have verified all coils are good. Have you pulled the new plugs to make sure one isn't fouling out or not torqued properly? I had a buddy who put to much anti-sieze on one of his plugs. It backed itself out of the head causing all sorts of issues. If none of that clears the issue, I would suggest cleaning and calibrating the TPS. There is a good How-To here on the forums and it's a fairly easy job to do. You should also be able to download a copy of your manual from Yamaha. I had to make a log-in, and you'll need the VIN off of your bike if I remember correctly.

I also seen where you were asking how to verify if the generator is good. I assume you're talking about the stator... You verified that you are receiving the proper voltage at the battery above 4k RPM. I believe this verifies the entire charging system, especially the stator since it is what produces the charging AC current that's fed to the R/R. If there were a problem, then you would have to narrow it down to the stator or R/R.
 
#22 ·
I'm going to work on my bike tomorrow, I'm going to clean out both TPS. If this doesn't solve the problem I will have no choice but to order a new set of coils. I did. Notice that one of the boots of the coil was damaged (as in a cut into [not burned or anything]). I'll keep you Guys posted to see what solves this issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle
 
#23 ·
I fixed the issue. The boot of the coil was not completely stretched. I turned on the bike and from the side of the bike I pushed down (with a screwdriver) the boots. I let it warm up all the way then took it for a spin around the block. It didn't give me any issues what so ever.


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle