I was having the same problem with my bike, to check these parts to make sure they're still good your going to need a multimeter (one that checks both voltage and resistance). The rectifier is located right under the front of drivers seat/behind the gas tank. You should be able to see it without taking any parts off. Its a little black squarish thing with 3 white wires, 1 red, and 1 black. You can also test it without taking parts off as well. Your going to want to stick the leads of your multimeter on the red and black leads coming out of the rectifier and check the voltage being put out at 5k rpm. I believe it should be around 14V. The stator is a little bit harder to find, but I don't think you should need to take any parts off to test it either. I'll see if I can find a picture for you, as it would be easiest to see that way. But basically its a white connector with three wires going into it. You're going to want to change your multimeter to resistance(the lowest setting) and check every combination of the three wires. I believe the resistance should be about .3 ohms.

My bike is an 01, but I believe its pretty much the same thing.

 

thanks for the quick reply, yeah i have a multimeter, i was using it today to check if the battery is charging, i stuck the leads across the battery though and held it at 5000 rpm. isnt that doing the same thing?

 

and there was no change in the voltage across the battery, only got lower and lower :/

 

Yeah either your regulator/rectifier is shot, or your stator is bad. As for holding the voltmeter across the battery leads, yeah I'm pretty sure it'll do the same thing. You can easily tell if your rectifier is shot tho usually by looking at it. When mine went bad, there was a lot of burning and melting going on right around where the leads come out of the rectifier. Check it out and see if there is any burnt shit around the output of your rectifier, it'll be easy to see and you'll know for sure whether or not you need a new one. At least thats where I'd start first.

 

i will check it first thing tomorrow morning

thank mate

 

Down load the service manual from here

http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44136

 

yeah i have the service manual but im new to biking so understand less than half of it anyways, i took the output out of the rectifier and this is what i found. one of the leads has burnt and slightly melted the plastic. i found two of the wires were melted together and i separated them and put some electricians tape around the melted bits.
what do i do now?

 

after separating those wires it seems to have fixed the problem, been driving for an hour and it hasnt drained the battery. hope this is the end of the prob. any advice will be appreciated anyway. just in case its not sorted

cheers

UPDATE: ok it died again lol. flat battery after 1 and a half hours of riding. help plz :'(

 

PG 8-23 and 8-25 in the manual. 8-23 shows the connector that is burnt #3. It looks as if the rectifier is bad but you need test the stator at its connector.

 

where exactly is the stator connector? sorry only been riding a month so dont know much, and looking at this manual and cant make any sense of it

 

PG 2-41 and 2-43 #10 the ac magneto lead.
pg 2-43 #32 is the connector.

 

thanks dude will check it out

 

Mike,

You should be able to find the stator connector pushed up behind the stator cover on the left side of the bike. It should have three wires running into it. Check them with the ohm meter.

Hector,

I was wondering if you could help me with a problem I'm having with my bike? It's a 2001, and it runs just fine. I'm having an electrical problem tho. I changed out the rectifier because it was bad, and I tested the stator and it seems to be fine. The regulator/rectifier doesn't seem to be putting out the voltage it should, its only around 13 V at 5k rpm, but thats not really my main concern right now. The biggest problem is the battery draining while the bike is off. It only takes like a week or 2 for the battery to die completely. Do you think I have a short somewhere? Any ideas?

 

If the battery is old it wont hold a full charge or you have a bad cell. You may need to put it on a tender and keep it on it during storage. I have the same problem if I dont ride for two weeks and dont leave it on a tender.

 

do i have to take off the stator cover first mate? and do i have to hold the bike at around 5000rpm to check it with the multimeter?

 

i've had this problem and also had the same characteristic burnt rectifier pins. you just need to fix the connectors. most likely your rectifier and stator are fine. it's just a bad connection. when the pins are not connected tightly it creates a lot of resistance / heat, which fries the connectors thus preventing the stator from recharging your battery. which leads to a dead bike. you just need to either replace the pins and connectors or do what i did and solder the connectors.

 

dude u were right. it was just the bad connector. i took it off. scraped away the burnt bits , cleaned it up with a bit of sandpaper. now runs fine thanks

 

i would also recommend getting a new battery too, just because the one you have on now has been drained and won't be as good again.

 

well the battery is brand new only a few weeks old. dont think i will need to change that again....? thanks for the info anyway. will have to see if i can get the connectors. how did u solder it? just cut the cables and soldered them to the pins?

 

this was what happened to me too.

so what i did at first was replace the rectifier and neglected fixing the burnt connectors which was the main issue. therefore a month later my bike died and again, the new connectors from the new rectifer was burnt once more. from everyone that works on bikes, told me that it was not a rectifier/stator problem but a bad connector. over time, the male and female pins get corroded, dirty, etc, so it creates resistance and produces lots of heat. therefore over time, the connectors get melted and ultimately disconnected. unknowingly the bike is running off the battery and is never getting recharged.

so i just decided to cut the cables of the rectifier and stator and strip the plastic covers and solder the wires together. i have pictures of the final result. in the picture you will also see an aluminum metal plate on the rectifier. my dad fabricated that for me in order to help dissipate the heat created by the rectifier. once you fixe the connectors i don't think i is necessarey to have the plate, but it gives me assurance that the rectifier is being kept cool especially in the low air flow location it is in.

hope this helps you. feel free to pm me if anything.

 

i'd prob recommend ordering new male/female connectors if you can. but soldering all the wires together will completely prevent that problem again. i did this last october and have done two track days and lots of street riding with no problems. goodluck

 

yeah ill probably do that, see if i can find those connectors somewhere.
thanks for your help mate

 

ok ive just been down there to try and get one of those female connectors off. how the hell do u get them out of the plastic casing?

 

i just cut the wires directly and then strip the the wires so i can solder the metal wires together. make sure you keep track of which one connects to which. i hope that helps. also, from above, you can do that checklist to make sure you don't have issues with the rectifier and stator which i'm pretty sure you don't have.

goodluck and keep us updated.

 

Mike,

I think Hector's reply was directed at me. As for your problem, I'd try and get a new connector or directly solder the connections like the other guy stated. I'd try that first. If that doesn't work, test your stator. To test your stator, leave your bike off. Find the connector coming out of the stator and hook up the ohm meter to each combination of the 3 leads. The resistance of each pair of leads should be around .3 ohms on the lowest setting of the ohm meter (1x i think). Good luck, I hate figuring these electrical problems out.

1. The first thing I'd try is fixing the burnt connection
2. If you get that fixed, and it still isn't charging, your probably need a new rectifier or stator, most likely rectifier, but to test the stator, do what I said above. You shouldn't need to take anything apart.

Hector,

I just bought the battery this summer, so I'm pretty sure I don't need a new battery. Maybe I just need to get a battery tender, would probably be easiest. Have you ever heard of anything like I described though, with a wire or switch shorting out? I used to be able to leave my bike sit for weeks at a time and it would fire right up, maybe its just time for a new bike .

 

My brother had an old cbr that had that problem. He had air horns on it and it was was draing the battery down for some reason. He sold the bike.

I had my bike on a tender for 4 weeks now but went to start it today and it wouldnt start. I pull out the battery to bring it into the house to drain it down and try to recharge it. It was to cold outside and I think because it was in the shead it wouldnt charge the battery. If this dosent work I need a new battery. It dosent matter if the battery is new if it wasent charged fully before it wont hold a good charge later.

 

thanks for all your help guys. will get onto it on the weekend and let u know how it goes

 

glad to hear. hope it holds up. keep it safe out there on the roads.

 

I have this same problem also. Wondering if anyone had good closeup pictures of fixes for this?

 

Had the same issue today...Bad connector