before i started it yesterday it said code 20,then it didnt do it again until i stopped for a couple hours to visit with some people,now today i tun the key on and here we are again,its my 2008 with 10,000 on the clock,i dont get it,i bought a new bike so i wouldnt have this shit happening,any ideas?
Broke Banshee
- Status
a code 20..is Intake air pressure sensor or atmospheric pressure sensor.
Probable cause of malfunction...Atmospheric pressure sensor hose is
clogged.
• Intake air pressure sensor hose is clogged,
kinked, or pinched.
• Malfunction of the atmospheric pressure
sensor in the intermediate electrical potential.
• Malfunction of the intake air pressure sensor
in the intermediate electrical potential.
• Malfunction in ECU. I hope this helps..
Probable cause of malfunction...Atmospheric pressure sensor hose is
clogged.
• Intake air pressure sensor hose is clogged,
kinked, or pinched.
• Malfunction of the atmospheric pressure
sensor in the intermediate electrical potential.
• Malfunction of the intake air pressure sensor
in the intermediate electrical potential.
• Malfunction in ECU. I hope this helps..
sorry to bump an old thread (well, not that old) but I have the exact same issue and im at 11k on my 08
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102307&highlight=atmospheric+sensor
just took it out for a spin yesterday and it was ok in 55 degree weather. Its only happened twice and when it was cold and had been sittin in the cold for more than 2 hours. As long as its not cold it seems to be ok. Also, once the bike is at about the 100 minimum and off of the "lo" message I can shut it off and back on, bike runs better and CEL disappears. It does run poorly with the code (I assume ECU trying to give either too much air or fuel) but once it gets warm there i no issue and like I said its only been twice.
I guess my only concern is I dont know if its bad to let it warm up in that status. Theres no backfire so its not extreme, but I feel the same way as you do. This thing has been well well maintained and should not be doing that. Also its a rare problem so I have had to look at other brands to ty to figure it out. GSXRs seem to do it more than the other brands, or at least have the most info on it happening posted online. Other fixes include replacing the sensor wire because its been fried and thats causing it, ECU is fuxored, and crimped lines (I took my tank off and everything is good to go so it wasnt that in my case). Good luck and please post back with what you find
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102307&highlight=atmospheric+sensor
just took it out for a spin yesterday and it was ok in 55 degree weather. Its only happened twice and when it was cold and had been sittin in the cold for more than 2 hours. As long as its not cold it seems to be ok. Also, once the bike is at about the 100 minimum and off of the "lo" message I can shut it off and back on, bike runs better and CEL disappears. It does run poorly with the code (I assume ECU trying to give either too much air or fuel) but once it gets warm there i no issue and like I said its only been twice.
I guess my only concern is I dont know if its bad to let it warm up in that status. Theres no backfire so its not extreme, but I feel the same way as you do. This thing has been well well maintained and should not be doing that. Also its a rare problem so I have had to look at other brands to ty to figure it out. GSXRs seem to do it more than the other brands, or at least have the most info on it happening posted online. Other fixes include replacing the sensor wire because its been fried and thats causing it, ECU is fuxored, and crimped lines (I took my tank off and everything is good to go so it wasnt that in my case). Good luck and please post back with what you find
i unplugged the vacuum line and replugged mine and it hasnt done it again,before i did that the code wouldnt go away anymore
I had the same issues on my 08 R6r (20k miles). When I unplugged the hose from the intake air pressure sensor the code 20 went away. Plugging the hose back in, the code came back. I then blew air in the hose (with my mouth and extension hose) and could feel the blockage clearing. Plugging the hose back in the code cleared and didn't come back. I then got compressed air (about 30 psi) and ran that through for additional measures (since I'm not a pro blower...I leave that to my wife 
. Started the bike and the problem has not come back since.
. Started the bike and the problem has not come back since.
These pressure sensors (rear-atmospheric, front-intake) can be read in diagnostic mode for second gen. The manual gives some information on how to interpret the readings for the rear, and generate readings for the front. Weather sites like NOAA might provide some barometric pressures for your area. Haven't checked, but there might be number converters baked into the search engines.
I had actually looked into this earlier this week. I only got it once, immediately after key-on. I immediately thought this might be related to code 19. Cycling the key multiple times had no impact. Checking the circuit diagram shows that the ignition is unlikely to be a factor in generating this code. Ran lousy on startup. After I started to get a coolant temperature reading, I shut it down, keyed-off. After keying back on, the light was gone. Restarted and idled normal again. Keyed off/on and restarted several times. During that particular run, there was less available power... which is normal during warm up but felt like it's typically available at that point in the cycle. Code hasn't come back over ~1.5 tank fulls thus far. Since I had been working in the back on some unrelated things earlier this year, I intend to start my investigation with rear sensor. Front and rear sensors are pretty quick and easy to access.
Rear sensor is identified as number fifteen in this diagram.
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/500469f1f8700209bc7966cb/electrical-1
![373582]( "373582")
![373583]( "373583")
In another thread, the poster stated that the connection to this sensor was compromised; that he had to disassemble the wire harness, cleanup the pins and solder the wires to the pins. Stated that the OEM wire clamping was insufficient and had started to come apart. It appears to be identical to the front sensor. While I would avoid blowing into the sensor, it may be a good idea to check its port for crud.
"Voltage drop testing" is a great tool for locating bad connections. The only caveat is that the wire/connection that you're testing, has to be loaded to its potential. Otherwise your reading may be less than conclusive. A straight-pin through the wire harness insulation can be used to get readings. It also helps to move the wire around, tug on it a little bit to further help reveal any potential flakiness. If it's impractical to load the wire/connection to their potential, remove it from the circuit (prevent damage), put one end on a 12v battery, the other on its negative, then measure voltage drop. Of course this workaround may potentially exclude two important connect points in testing.
Front sensor is identified as number eighteen in the diagram. (attached to the metal fuel rail)
The hose that connects to it isn't clearly identified, but I'd guess is number twenty-seven, twenty-eight or twenty-nine. (you can use standard auto parts store vac line)
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/500469e0f8700209bc7966a7/intake-2
![373584]( "373584")
It probably gets its MAP reading solely from cylinder three, which could be why they tell us not to mess with three when syncing throttle bodies.
Interestingly, the part numbers for front and rear sensors are slightly different.
Again, I'd avoid blowing crud into the sensor. But if it's already up in there...
I had actually looked into this earlier this week. I only got it once, immediately after key-on. I immediately thought this might be related to code 19. Cycling the key multiple times had no impact. Checking the circuit diagram shows that the ignition is unlikely to be a factor in generating this code. Ran lousy on startup. After I started to get a coolant temperature reading, I shut it down, keyed-off. After keying back on, the light was gone. Restarted and idled normal again. Keyed off/on and restarted several times. During that particular run, there was less available power... which is normal during warm up but felt like it's typically available at that point in the cycle. Code hasn't come back over ~1.5 tank fulls thus far. Since I had been working in the back on some unrelated things earlier this year, I intend to start my investigation with rear sensor. Front and rear sensors are pretty quick and easy to access.
Rear sensor is identified as number fifteen in this diagram.
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/500469f1f8700209bc7966cb/electrical-1
In another thread, the poster stated that the connection to this sensor was compromised; that he had to disassemble the wire harness, cleanup the pins and solder the wires to the pins. Stated that the OEM wire clamping was insufficient and had started to come apart. It appears to be identical to the front sensor. While I would avoid blowing into the sensor, it may be a good idea to check its port for crud.
"Voltage drop testing" is a great tool for locating bad connections. The only caveat is that the wire/connection that you're testing, has to be loaded to its potential. Otherwise your reading may be less than conclusive. A straight-pin through the wire harness insulation can be used to get readings. It also helps to move the wire around, tug on it a little bit to further help reveal any potential flakiness. If it's impractical to load the wire/connection to their potential, remove it from the circuit (prevent damage), put one end on a 12v battery, the other on its negative, then measure voltage drop. Of course this workaround may potentially exclude two important connect points in testing.
Front sensor is identified as number eighteen in the diagram. (attached to the metal fuel rail)
The hose that connects to it isn't clearly identified, but I'd guess is number twenty-seven, twenty-eight or twenty-nine. (you can use standard auto parts store vac line)
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/500469e0f8700209bc7966a7/intake-2
It probably gets its MAP reading solely from cylinder three, which could be why they tell us not to mess with three when syncing throttle bodies.
Interestingly, the part numbers for front and rear sensors are slightly different.
Again, I'd avoid blowing crud into the sensor. But if it's already up in there...
Code got consistent... enough for me to troubleshoot. (still goes off after engine warm-up)
The manual says
This is the sensor...
...back of the engine, tank off. Sensor is top-left, three wires running off the back of it, rubber hose running from the bottom of it.
To get the hose off, twist, before trying to pull. Even then, may still be very hard to pull it off without damaging the hose. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to push the hose off the sensor. But be mindful of damaging the surface/shape of the nipple when using tools. I also pulled the hose off the fuel pressure regulator. Blew them out but didn't see anything come out. Proper way is to of course, remove the entire hose assembly but I was in a bit of a hurry.
Plugged the hose back in after blowing out, held throttle at 100% and began cranking engine to generate some vacuum. Code did not return. Time will tell.
The rear sensor is to the right of the ECU, just behind it. You might have to pull off the rear fairing to see it. It has a very tiny hex-head. Tried to pull it off just for cleaning access but nearly broke my tool trying to torque it free. So left it alone.
If the hoses are dry-rotting, collapsing under vacuum or for some unknown reason, dirty, just replace them. It's a small diameter but I'd guess most automotive parts stores should have something compatible.
The manual says
- "Intake air pressure sensor or Atmospheric pressure sensor"
- "When the main switch is turned to ON, the atmospheric sensor voltage and intake air pressure sensor voltage differ greatly."
- Unplugged the rear sensor and got 20 + 23.
- Plugged it back in.
- Just code 20 again.
- Unplugged the front sensor and got 20 + 13.
- Plugged it back in.
- Just code 20 again.
- Unplugged the intake hose from the front sensor and no more code 20.
This is the sensor...
To get the hose off, twist, before trying to pull. Even then, may still be very hard to pull it off without damaging the hose. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to push the hose off the sensor. But be mindful of damaging the surface/shape of the nipple when using tools. I also pulled the hose off the fuel pressure regulator. Blew them out but didn't see anything come out. Proper way is to of course, remove the entire hose assembly but I was in a bit of a hurry.
Plugged the hose back in after blowing out, held throttle at 100% and began cranking engine to generate some vacuum. Code did not return. Time will tell.
The rear sensor is to the right of the ECU, just behind it. You might have to pull off the rear fairing to see it. It has a very tiny hex-head. Tried to pull it off just for cleaning access but nearly broke my tool trying to torque it free. So left it alone.
If the hoses are dry-rotting, collapsing under vacuum or for some unknown reason, dirty, just replace them. It's a small diameter but I'd guess most automotive parts stores should have something compatible.
Final update. Previous steps of blowing the hose out, had zero impact what-so-ever. Did the same thing the following morning.
Removed the entire hose assembly, which appeared fine, visited the auto parts store and got a three foot section of hose to cut-up and replace the assembly with. (note: removed the tank, air-cleaner box, and carefully unplugged wires from fuel injector numbers three and four in order to clear the way for the hose removal, reinsertion)
Got home and discovered AutoZone handed me windshield washer fluid line. Wall thickness was comparable but that doesn't necessarily mean much. Atmospheric pressure will crush it as it softens under engine temps. Hose was labeled with just 1.0 bar. Visited O'Reilly Auto and got three feet of actual vacuum line.
Used a can of compessed air to very gently blow the intake sensor port. There was an insignificant and very very very tiny piece of light brown debris. Also an even tinier white spec. Again, insignificant. Blew out the fuel pressure regulator vacuum port. Cylinder head vacuum ports weren't looking all that good, with a white powdery substance surrounding the orifices; likely corroded aluminum. Number two port was partially blocked off with some green crud... same kind of green you see with corroded copper. (the bike is eleven years old) Cut a short section of hose, poked my carb-cleaner straw in it, attempted to seal the straw in the hose, and forced small amounts of fluid under pressure into those orifices.
All cylinder head ports now looking clean, readily and rapidly accepting brake fluid cleaner, reinstalled the rebuilt vacuum hose assembly.
It's been only a couple of days, but so far, so good.
EDIT 24y06m26d:
![Image]()
Removed the entire hose assembly, which appeared fine, visited the auto parts store and got a three foot section of hose to cut-up and replace the assembly with. (note: removed the tank, air-cleaner box, and carefully unplugged wires from fuel injector numbers three and four in order to clear the way for the hose removal, reinsertion)
Got home and discovered AutoZone handed me windshield washer fluid line. Wall thickness was comparable but that doesn't necessarily mean much. Atmospheric pressure will crush it as it softens under engine temps. Hose was labeled with just 1.0 bar. Visited O'Reilly Auto and got three feet of actual vacuum line.
Used a can of compessed air to very gently blow the intake sensor port. There was an insignificant and very very very tiny piece of light brown debris. Also an even tinier white spec. Again, insignificant. Blew out the fuel pressure regulator vacuum port. Cylinder head vacuum ports weren't looking all that good, with a white powdery substance surrounding the orifices; likely corroded aluminum. Number two port was partially blocked off with some green crud... same kind of green you see with corroded copper. (the bike is eleven years old) Cut a short section of hose, poked my carb-cleaner straw in it, attempted to seal the straw in the hose, and forced small amounts of fluid under pressure into those orifices.
All cylinder head ports now looking clean, readily and rapidly accepting brake fluid cleaner, reinstalled the rebuilt vacuum hose assembly.
It's been only a couple of days, but so far, so good.
EDIT 24y06m26d:
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