I recently performed a valve adjustment and now I can't seem to get my cam timing quite right. With the marks on the cam sprockets lined up with the cylinder head edge, the mark on the pickup rotor doesn't line up perfectly with the split in the cases (see picture). I tried jumping one tooth on the crank but that didn't remedy the situation. I'm not sure how precise the time is from the factory but I have a feeling something isn't right. I normally mark the cam chain and cam sprockets to allow an easier install but the chain moved on the crank so my marks are useless now. Any tips on getting the exhaust side of the cam chain tight? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
wespower
Need Help With Cam Timing
I recently performed a valve adjustment and now I can't seem to get my cam timing quite right. With the marks on the cam sprockets lined up with the cylinder head edge, the mark on the pickup rotor doesn't line up perfectly with the split in the cases (see picture). I tried jumping one tooth on the crank but that didn't remedy the situation. I'm not sure how precise the time is from the factory but I have a feeling something isn't right. I normally mark the cam chain and cam sprockets to allow an easier install but the chain moved on the crank so my marks are useless now. Any tips on getting the exhaust side of the cam chain tight? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
Attachments
They're usually pretty accurate... I just took my spare engine apart and it was off, but not by that much
They way I always did it was first remove the cam chain tensioner, then the tiers for the cam shafts so you can move the cams if/when needed, line up the T with the case split, then pull all of the slack out of the chain on the exhaust side of the motor, rotate the cam shaft into position using the hatch mark. Hold the the tension there and keep the chain on the cam gear, hand tighten the tier for the exhaust cam shaft, then install the intake side the same way pulling the slack out between the two and lining the hatch mark I up to the head. Hand tighten the tier then torque them down, then reinstall the cam chain tensioner. Turn over by hand to make sure the CCT is out and doing it's job.
Hope that helps, sorry in a bit of a hurry.
Hope that helps, sorry in a bit of a hurry.
Thanks for your help guys. I followed a similar procedure but I think I am one tooth off. I'm going to work on it tonight again and I'll let you know how it turns out.
After the advice of numerous experienced individuals I settled on the setting pictured in my original post. Bike has been running great for several thousand miles! hope that helps
I know the last motor (for a cage) I built I used a gear drive and the timing marks where pretty far off (one tooth made it worse), ended up breaking out my cam degree wheel just to make sure the timing was on, and it was, the marks on the gears where just off.
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