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2007 R6 help needed

1.6K views 19 replies 6 participants last post by  MikeN02  
#1 · (Edited)
Hows it going everyone.

Ive been in the yamaha scene for awhile. Ive had two Yamis a 07 Fz6 and an 06 FZ6r. been riding for about 2 years. Recently sold both of my bikes and bought a 2007 Yamaha R6 blue and black. mods: Full yoshimura exhaust. aftermarkets: blue underbody light kit. blue angel lights. puig blue racing screen. and seat cowl. (by the way if you have an extra r6 rear seat i would be willing to buy it if its a good price.) Absolutely love the ride and speed. i do have some concerns hopefully someone could help me out with and thanks in advance

when i bought the bike it only had 1500 miles on it. drove it back to where i live then had it for a couple weeks it now has 2230 miles. when i bought it, it had one oil change at 600. i changed the oil when i got back to town at 2000 with ams oil 10w-40. heard and read how it was supposed to be the best oil you could use for anything with a motor. anyways. seemed to ride alot better. however what i have noticed even before the oil change is alot of popping on deceleration. and sluggish acceleration at times. that being said it is cold out these days up in the midwest. i was thinking about changing out the spark plugs and coils. i usually do my own maitenance or get one of my buddies to help out. because the stealerships around here charge an arm and a leg. i was wondering about all this. could i have a porblem im not seeing here? i was told to replace the plugs and maybe coils. i did my own research and it could be because of my aftermarket yoshimura full exhaust. because my bike doesnt register it as a aftermarket or something. also someone told me cam chains were a common problem for r6's if so how would i be able to tell. my needle my speedometer needle at neutral when the bike is turned on also wobbles alot. a friend of mine said it was misfiring but after awhile of letting it warm up it would sound normal. anyways thats all i can think of. just alot of popping at times upon deceleration, sluggish acceleration at times, and wobbling speedometer needle. any recommendations to a high performance spark plug besides the gapless ones? ngk is stock on them correct? i was wondering if there would be a better one. and any recommendations for coils?

thanks im still rough with maintenance and any help is appreciated.
 
#2 ·
if you have a full exhaust, you should get smog block-off plates installed and a fuel controller like a power commander or Bazzaz z-fi. I went with Bazzaz because I liked its options better. The decel popping is because of lack of fuel controller. Get those two (~$300) and a good map or dyno tune and you should be golden.
 
#3 ·
sounds pretty normal to me. not sure though. the decel popping is simply b/c of your smog/AIS system (emissions). it pumps fresh air into the exhaust to aid in combustion of any unburned fuel. it's stupid, and is worthless, but they have to ship from the factory with them. you can take the system completely out, and add smog block off plates, and cap the air box all for ~$30 max ($25 for plates, and $1 for 4, 1/2" plastic furniture leg tips from home depot - you'll only need one). as for the "sluggish" acceleration - that also sounds like the typical "r6 low end". most of us have that issue with stock gearing from idle to ~5k or so RPM. the trick is to change the gearing a bit, and add a pc3 or bazzaz (or pc5). this will help bring the power curve down to a lower rpm but will also knock out some of your top end. the common kit is the -1/+2 (front/rear). once you do that - and get a good tune from either a dyno, an AFM, an autotuner, or "off the rack", you'll notice a huge difference.

as for the speedometer needle - i don't have one. i have a tach needle, and my speedo is digital. i'm assuming you mean the tachometer, and from cold start to ~104* for me, my bike kinda "wavey idles" if that makes sense. once a temp registers on the cluster, it settles down and it idles very smooth.

hope that helps...
 
#4 · (Edited)
Thanks alot to rammyr6 and agg2001. so with what you said theres nothing that would need replacing like the plugs or coils. i would need to get a power commander and the other items you listed? do you guys have any clue where i could get these for a good deal? i used to try ebay alot but some of the parts i would get were damaged so im done with that. also i get crap for gas mileage. i dont stunt but i do speed alot. but i filled up yesterday. had to fill up again the next day like 130 miles later it seemed like. and thanks for explaining how it was a common low end problem for r6's. and for the tip about the smog ais system. and yes lol i did mean the tach.
 
#5 ·
best bet for Power commander would be used one on the forums or talk to Mike at MJSperformance, he usually has great deals on them and is real good with customer service.

My previous 07 R6v did have problems with the coil packs, so they had to be changed, so dont discount that off yet. I had problems after ~5k miles though, not nearly the 2k miles that you posted.
 
#6 ·
you mentioned this Bazzaz z-fi. where could i find a good deal on this? and ok. so just wait and see how things look before i switch out the coils. any recommendations for a good replacement for the oem spark plugs and coils? did anyone else also experience the same gas mileage i do? i read on somes post that they had a full tank and were doing stunts and 45 minutes later they had to refuel. i know that slow traffic and idling, riding fast all are factors i was just wondering if i had a problem here as well
 
#7 ·
some other vendor on here had sale going on for the Bazzaz z-fi system, so check the vendor forums.

As for gas mileage, I also get ~120 miles to the tank before the light comes on, so thats normal. After the light, I can still get ~25 more miles before the tank runs dry. Mileage varies for everyone. If you dont have a fuel controller and without the smog block-off plates, you might be running rich which'll make the mileage even lower. Hope this helps. Maybe someone else would chime in on this. Also, learn to use the search feature on the forum, you can find tonsov info using that.
 
#9 ·
i have bazzaz also. i love it.

dont' change plugs. it's fine. not NEARLY enough miles to be worrying about that yet. wait till ~8k miles then start thinking about it again.

call brad at superbikesupply.com. they WERE doing the zfi and afm for STUPID cheap shipped, so call em and see if he can still hook you up.
 
#12 ·
I too have the Bazzaz zfi with the afm autotune. Great product if you have a full system and block off plates. I stumbled upon ll my stuff used for very cheap. Like stated by Agg and Rammy, lots of blowout sales going on right now on new stuff. If you can afford it jump on the zfi w/afm and blockoff plates.
 
#13 ·
ok good deal. so it would be a good idea if i got the afm as well? bc i was going to get the bazzaz z-fi by itself bec i found a good deal for 270$ does anyone know of a better deal or a good deal for both? im trying to get one asap and also looking for a good 520 swap to go 1 down in the front and 2 up in the rear to solve the low end problem.
 
#14 ·
lol, before you know it you'll end up spending a ton of $$ on that 6 :lmao


Yes, to have the Z-fi and Z-AFM is a plus. Once you do the -1/+2 sprocket change, your speedo will be off due to gearing change. If you need to see accurate speeds on the speedo then you'll need to get a SpeedoDRD or a Speedohealer that'll compensate for the gearing change.

Agg2001 can hook u up with the SpeedoDRD ..."he knows a guy" :sing


:lmao
 
#15 ·
i know it lol. then ill have to get one of those security set ups that go off and also send your phone a message if someones messing with your bike. but first thing im planning to do is get that bazzaz z-fi and maybe the afm. if i just bought the z-fi how much do you think it would cost if i took it into a stealership to get it tuned instead of buying one.
 
#20 ·
The gas light on means it's running on the reserve gas. Trip A is the counter, hit select to change it to Trip B another counter to count your miles then again to go to your Odometer. There's also a timer when you hit select again.

If it has a clicking sound from under the seat then it's your battery. Either it's dead and you need to recharge or replace it, or it's because your stator (alternator) isn't charging your battery.

Most likely just the battery being dead. Take it out and take it to an AutoZone to have it tested/charged.