Possibly valves or tps needs cleaning

 

Is there any way to indicate which one might be the potential culprit? Just curious if i can do anything to narrow it down a bit. Thank you for your response.

 

Yea I'm thinking valve clearance is getting smaller

 

Well cleaning the tps is easier so I'd try that first.

 

Oh okay, i was actually didn't think of just cleaning, i thought it had to get synced , I'll try that for sure, thanks. See if i can find a how-to in the forums.

 

http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97305

This may help, or search for the free downloadable manual

 

if the valves were getting tight, it would have been getting steadily worse the last few times you have ridden it. The fact you indicate the bike sits for extended periods of time points more to a fuel issue.. as in bad fuel. Google "ethanol, fuel injectors".. ethanol is bad stuff. You are north of the border, so if you have ethanol in your gas, and the gas has been in the tank a good while (more than 3-4 months) get it out and try a fresh tank.
When you DO store the bike, store with a full tank and use your favorite fuel stabilizer as directed. A not full tank will form condensation, and that water does not mix. it settles to the bottom as the fuel breaks down, unlike fuel from a few years ago that had mtbe as a octane booster. It mixed with a small amount of water much better and you could get away with a machine sitting for up to a year sometimes without issue. You are running seafoam now, but that won't help fuel that has already phase separated (that is what occurs with e10 fuel or any fuel with a % of ethanol).

this may not be your problem, but is worth a try along with the other suggestions. At 29,000 it's at least time to check the valve clearances. that is an easy job to be honest. adjusting them is more difficult.
Also run your diagnostic mode and check throttle positions. you will need a manual to check the specs for each value that reads out on the dash in daig mode.

 

Thanks very much. The longest the bike has sat is about 4 weeks and even then, I ensure its full; however, I didn't have stabilizer in it, but I think I will drain the tank as you described above anyway, at least then I can potentially eliminate fuel as the issue.

I have read the in-depth how-to on checking Valve clearances, but I think when I get to that stage (after checking and cleaning the TPS) I will let the shop do that for me (we get military discount at my local shop, which helps).

The numbers for the TPS according to the service manual are 12-21 and 97-106, so I will try the diag mode first and write my numbers down, then clean the sensors and see if it changes anything, but from everything I am reading and getting frmo people, it sounds more and more like the valves need adjusting. At least I have a heated garage and beer fridge and I am getting to know my bike intimately.

Thanks again, I really appreciate everyones input and help here. Will let you know how it goes tonight.

 

Thanks very much, that thread helped for the actual cleaning, but the 06 TPS is in a complete different location. I downloaded the Service Manual and have a breakdown of where to find the TPS on the 06 (FYI, its kind of a bitch to get at compared to the 03-05).

I am assuming I need to clean the TPS for the throttle valves and the TPS for the throttle cable pulley. Will keep you posted on how things progress, I'm going to tackle it when I get home from work tonight.

 

if you have changed spark plugs, you are 15 minutes or less from being able to check valve clearances.

i have posted in other threads some instructions.. search it or download/print/buy a manual. a manual will be THE BEST tool in your box. i assure you.
the valve cover WILL come up and out of the frame. You just need the airbox and any pair valve hoses out of the way (if you still have those). with the ignition access cap off on the right side, use a 12mm to turn the engine over (easier with plugs out) to have the intake lobes point back and exst lobes point forward. it does not have to be precise! just as long as the lobes each time you check (have to roll the motor for each cylinder) are forward or back. that's it!

 

I've been looking over the service manual for the 05. I have not decided if I want to tackle a valve inspection or not. I'm at about 30k miles now, so it's definitely due. I spoke with a service tech at a local Yamaha dealer, and he was saying I would know when my valves needed adjustment by the bike acting up. Not sure if I trust that logic, but so far she is running perfect.

Well, I think you have convinced me to try it. I have downloaded the service manul and it is awesome, I have a printed copy and an electronic copy saved on my tab for when I do any wrenching on the bike.

I found some great step by step instructions on how to check the valves (probably yours). I guess I just need to buy the spacers for measuring the gap. Just terrified to screw it up and do more damage than good, but I guess if I just take my time I can get through it.

If the TPS cleaning has no effect, I'll sack-up and try checking the valves. Thanks.

I've found a couple how-to's here on the forums. Could you paste a link to the one you're looking at? I want to see if it's one I've missed. :secret

 

Well, I think you have convinced me to try it. I have downloaded the service manul and it is awesome, I have a printed copy and an electronic copy saved on my tab for when I do any wrenching on the bike.

I found some great step by step instructions on how to check the valves (probably yours). I guess I just need to buy the spacers for measuring the gap. Just terrified to screw it up and do more damage than good, but I guess if I just take my time I can get through it.

If the TPS cleaning has no effect, I'll sack-up and try checking the valves. Thanks.

 

I am sure you have seen this one, it has a good picture breakdown of what you need to do.

http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-how-guides/14272-how-valve-clearance-check-adjustment.html

Good luck.

 

Thanks! :toocool: I haven't seen this one. I'm thinking about trying to check mine after the holidays are over. I should have more time and money in case adjustment is required.

you really can't screw anything up CHECKING clearances.. the job goes from a "2" to a "7" when you start pulling cams out. Taking them out? not tough, the danger factor comes in when you don't get the cam sprockets lined up properly. You can damage/ruin the valves or worse (they break off and mess more stuff up).
Checking them is super easy though..
a set of feeler gauges as shown in the 'how to" someone just posted are ideal. need to be long enough to get in there easy, and a slight bend doesn't hurt.

Yea, the How-to posted above breaks it down barney style, just how I like it! :laugh I can do the inspection, but don't think I would attempt adjusting on my own.

If the valves are out though, I will take her to my local shop to have them adjusted. I'll just pack everything on the trailer and bring it in to save some shop time tearing everything apart again.

:stupic

Think I'll be going on the same plan!

 

you really can't screw anything up CHECKING clearances.. the job goes from a "2" to a "7" when you start pulling cams out. Taking them out? not tough, the danger factor comes in when you don't get the cam sprockets lined up properly. You can damage/ruin the valves or worse (they break off and mess more stuff up).
Checking them is super easy though..
a set of feeler gauges as shown in the 'how to" someone just posted are ideal. need to be long enough to get in there easy, and a slight bend doesn't hurt.

 

A guy in my Unit at work, just ran home and grabbed me a set of feeler guages, so I am committed now.....lol.

If the valves are out though, I will take her to my local shop to have them adjusted. I'll just pack everything on the trailer and bring it in to save some shop time tearing everything apart again.

Now I'm just staring at the clock at work waiting to get home and get cracking on this.

 

I'll let you know how mine goes. Doing the TPS tonight and the check the valves on the weekend if the TPS doesn't clear up my issue.

 

This thread got me curious about the actual cost of a valve adjustment and so I called the local SoCal stealership to get a quote as my bike is starting to near 26,000. $500 + 2-3 days of waiting was the quote lol. I will definitely get off my lazy ass and tackle this myself if I fcuk it up can prabably buy an engine for $500 lol

 

Holy crap, my shop quoted me $250-$300, drop off in the morning and pickup in the evening! I would maybe seek a second opinion.

 

Mine had this EXACT same issue, same bike. I just so happen to have it cracked open right now, to adjust the valves. They have closed up quite a bit. Hoping this clears mine up!

 

Wow, that sucks for you man, if you are feeling the frustration I am with this. Please let me know if it fixes your issue. Are you adjusting the valves yourself, or going to the shop for the adjustment?

Did you check your TPS as well, or go straight to the valves? I will be posting again tonight after I clean up my TPS on if it helped me out or not. Thanks.

 

I'm legally retarded, when it comes to internal engine work.

Even I can do it! (with some pointers of course)

There's enough knowledgeable people around here, who are always more then willing to lend a hand!

DO EEETT! It's too easy once you kinda know what you're doing!

 

lol, I hear ya, I'm a cheap bastard too! I calibrate and maintain all the production equipment used to manufacture optical encoders that are in the $1mil plus range all day, but when it comes to my shit I'm always a lil more cautious! :laugh

I'm definitely going to do the inspection, and hopefully it won't require any adjustment. If so, I'll see how motivated I'm feeling on tearing her down further.

 

**UPDATE**
So I got home from work and thought I would try starting it again before I went to work on cleaning the TPS. Here is what was different:

Started as per normal (about 4 second after pressing the starter flash up)
This time I thought I would try to keep the RPM at 2500-3000 until it warmed up
After about 10 seconds at 2800ish RPM then engine died again
Yesterday, it did not do this
Tried again, this time with throttle at 4000RPM and the engine still died

Any thoughts if this point to anything different? It really didn't seem to care where the throttle was, it was really not happy until warm. Does this change anyone's direction of where i should go? Or does it still sound like TPS and/or Valves?

About to start taking off the tank etc. to get to the TPS, but wanted to post this first. Thanks.

 

Okay so just ran diag mode and here is what i had:

Diagnostic Code 61 (malfunction history)
When it got here threw a faults code 14 and 30 at me

Thoughts? Please help.

*UPDATE* Codes cleared, i actually didn't do anything, just cleared them in diagnostic mode. I'll see if they come back.

 

So I cleaned the TPS, it was a little dirty, but not too bad, buttoned everything up and flashed her up. Problem still exists, no change at all. I'm in the process of checking the valves right now. 2 beer into it so far and halfway through Metallica's Ride the lightening album.........lol. will post once valves are checked.

 

opcorn:

 

Okay, so after a bunch of beers and some good tunes, I got the valves all checked. It was actually easier than I thought. Now the good/bad news.

Good news:Clearances were all within tolerance and everything looked good and I got to do it on my own, which was very satisfying.

Intake: 0.11mm ~ 0.20mm (0.0043in ~ 0.0079in)
Exhaust: 0.21mm ~ 0.30mm (0.0083in ~ 0.0118in)

Bad News:I now have no idea WTF is wrong with my bike. TPS was good, valves were good. I spoke with a Yamaha tech at my local shop and he seems to be thinking ECU and/or temp sensor. Anyone have anymore input? I guess I need to take it to the shop now and pay for some troubleshooting.

 

Intake: 0.11mm ~ 0.20mm (0.0043in ~ 0.0079in)
Exhaust: 0.21mm ~ 0.30mm (0.0083in ~ 0.0118in)

Was just looking at this again.. Did you look in the book for the clearances?

If those are for sure your measured clearance, some of them are ''out of spec''. Hardly at all, but.. You know.. Just something to think aboot. Weather or not that tiny fcuking bit matters, I don't know! Hoping someone else would like to chime in on that.

Or am I trippin'?? :laugh

From the manual:

 

Well... Temp. sensor is cheap to replace.... :laugh

I would think the ECU is quite a drastic conclusion to jump to, but who knows!

 

Yeah thats what I thought as well. I'll start with the temp sensor next I guess and go from there. At least the weather is miserable right now, so I am not missing much riding, still, I am starting to get a bit frustrated. In the end, at least I am getting to know my bike better. Will let you know what it is, when/if I ever figure it out.

 

What I wonder is though, if you take it to the guy to have it fixed, is he just going to replace the ecu, and charge you for it? (if it doesn't end up being the issue)

Or, is there a way they can test the current unit