The pop was probably an ignition in the cylinder. Whether or not that could blow a gasket, dunno. I'd think there'd be warnings in the manual if that were a potential though.

What you'll want to do is enter diagnostic mode and manually fire spark on each cylinder; with the plugs out. If that pans out, then run a compression test.

 

So you put in new spark plugs, and since that didn't solve the problem then I would replace all 4 coils and see if that fixes anything.

 

He mentioned that he rotated the coils and the same two cylinders aren't heating up the exhaust pipes.

 

Yeah, I even removed the coils out from the cylinder with the spark plugs and fired them outside without any issues. I ordered a compressor tester today and see if maybe somehow my exhuast valve is shot, even though it has had a valve adjustment 3000 miles ago.

 

Tensioner look good; timing still set?

 

During the valve adjustment, the timing was set then. Not sure if it could have gone bad in 3000 miles, but I'll double check

 

if you moved the injectors and confirmed you have spark this means you have wiring or ecu issues to two of the injectors.
do you have a power commander or something like it? if yes, remove it and test again

 

No PC installed, I was afraid it might be the ecu.. Will test the compression first and see if they are within spec.

 

they would still heat up the exhaust pipe. you're not getting fuel to those 2 cyl if you confirmed you do get spark.

 

I moved around the fuel injectors along with the coils from the running cylinder, without any luck.. Looking like a fried ecu, if the compression test passes.. :crying:

 

Would it be possible that the hissing sound from testing the coils in diag mode could have cause the ecu to fry? I do remember a weird smell afterwards..

 

it should not have fried the ecu but that doesn't mean it didn't happen. or the coils went bad. if you have ever smelled electrical parts burn you wont ever forget it.

 

Compression test all came back 180-185 psi, on the low end but no huge variation

 

Bright side is, better that it passes the compression test.

If the ECU truly is bad, "voltage drop test" your grounding between engine/battery/regulator/frame.

 

Swapped my ecu with my friends 07 R6, same issue. Cylinder 2 still not firing

 

Two cylinders not firing, or cylinder two not firing? Was there any change at all since the ECU swap or truly the "same issue" ?

 

No change whatsoever, exactly the same issue as before the ecu swap. Gonna dive into it again tomorrow..

 

You said you moved the injectors around, but are they actually firing? Did you check voltage at the connectors on them or pull them all out and see fuel spray out of them all? You have compression, air and fire.... The only thing left is fuel.
An easier way to see if you have fuel to all the cylinders is to lightly spray starting fluid in the intake. If those dead cylinders start producing heat then you know it is fuel. BTW, I would use a IR temp gun to check temps as that would be a better judge of an increase in temp.

 

I checked the voltage on the injector connectors, it was running 12.6-12.8v and I checked the resistance of the injector 2, it was 12.5-12.6. Swapped injector 1 with 2 and nothing changed.

 

Unplug the coils from the 2 good cylinders and spray a couple shots of starting fluid in the intake while attempting to start.

 

Figured it out..

It was an O ring in the fuel pump that wasn't completely seated.. the one next to the strainer. Or it might have been the fuel line hose from under the tank that wasn't completely hooked up, even though it did snap on. Crisps throttle response, no bonucy idle, no cold cylinder..

Now for some reason there knocking coming from the engine when it sits in neutral, however, when I engage the clutch it goes away. Any ideas on this issue now?

 

do you mean when you pull the lever in it goes away? that would be dis-engaging the clutch.
you should hear a slight knocking like that. it's normal. even my brand new R1 does it. slight. not a loud knocking. but you can hear it over the exhaust at idle. you're hearing the transmission spinning inside.

 

Yeah, when the clutch is pulled in the noise goes away. It’s been three weeks since I’ve ridden the bike now. I don’t ever remember hearing such a loud knock. I’ll upload a video in a bit. Thank you guys for all help on the other issue

 

Okay it actually stopped itself and doesn't happen anymore.

I appreciate all the help guys

 

I could be that your throttle bodies are out of sync. My 2007 r6 had a rough idle as well. I got spark plugs, did the valve adjustment, tried different coils, adjusted the throttle sensors. My problem was not resolved until I synced throttle bodies

 

Might be it, I didn't get a chance to sync them during my valve clearence.

 

Been trying to figure out why my 2006 R6 has been running so sluggish. It has a really rough idle and throttle response is delayed. It was fine up until I was in diag mode testing out my injectors and coils and I heard a something pop like a can of soda opening. I moved my ignition coils around put new spark plugs thinking that was the issue, but no luck.I even moved my injectors around and its the same cylinders that aren't firing. Any insight would be great.

Change coils and don't add dielectric grease as it rises up from the connector resulting in an improper connection.

 

Make sure your oil is topped off. Otherwise You would just have to inspect your clutch assembly and see what you find. There could be bolts not tightened to spec or warped clutch plates.

 

Weird, the bike basically sat still for 2-3 weeks and this wasn't happening before. Anymore insight would be greatly appreciated before I tear into the clutch assembly this weekend.

 

ok that sounds excessive. but it's always hard to judge sounds recorded with phones and low quality mics built into cameras.

but that is the "knocking" I figured you were talking about. if you don't find anything wrong with the clutch basket etc try changing the oil to something else. if you're not using a motorcycle oil try using a motorcycle oil. they have better modifiers in it for the clutch operation.

 

Yeah i would definitely be taking a peek at the clutch man. That sound makes me cringe.

The bikes have wet clutches meaning the engine oil also lubricates the clutch assembly. That is why yamahacrazy and some others have suggested checking/changing your oil.

 

I’ve done an oil change probably less than 500 miles ago about three months ago with mobil1 4t 10w-40. Do you guys know if you can open the clutch cover on the sidestand without draining the oil? Will it spill?